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Old 08-07-2007, 02:24 PM   #3811
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a higher number of teeth on your spur equals a lower overall gearing wich gives you more bottom end....

a higer number on your bell gives you more top end.. .
End of story..

the larger gears turns less times to the bells single rotation.. equalling more torque...

example.... 1 turn on the 13 bell.. would equall.. 1/4 turn on a 48 tooth spur..

1 turn on a 13 bell would equal.. 1/16 of a turn on a 62 spur..
hope this helps...
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Old 08-07-2007, 02:42 PM   #3812
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Isn't that exactly what I said?
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Old 08-07-2007, 02:51 PM   #3813
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Isn't that exactly what I said?
Yes, in layman's terms.
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Old 08-07-2007, 04:17 PM   #3814
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Thanks for every body's input. I guess what I am trying to achieve is more bottom coming out of the corners. My local lhs has a new track, that looks like a on road track with no straightaway. And the one straightaway isn't long enough to do anything.
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Old 08-07-2007, 04:46 PM   #3815
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if you want more bottom.. and your running that plus 21 7 you have listed in your sig.....
You may want to look at a motor that doesnt rev so.... like a B3 (werks or collari) awesome botom end smooth but revs quickly .. I mean it spools up fast..

otherwise you could try to do some clutch mods.. if on a 3 shoe clutch..
Run 1.1 springs and cut about 1-2 mm off the ends that hold on the shoe.. ( I would try 1mm first...)... make sure all shoes are equall.. and be prepared for more clutch maintenance than with stock clutch...
You could also try to drill the aluminum shoes to lighten them...

just some thoughts..

BTW.. how do you like the Plus 7?
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Old 08-07-2007, 04:49 PM   #3816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottmisfits View Post
Isn't that exactly what I said?
possibly im not always the best at decifering what I read!!!
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Old 08-07-2007, 05:06 PM   #3817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rregl0612 View Post
if you want more bottom.. and your running that plus 21 7 you have listed in your sig.....
You may want to look at a motor that doesnt rev so.... like a B3 (werks or collari) awesome botom end smooth but revs quickly .. I mean it spools up fast..

otherwise you could try to do some clutch mods.. if on a 3 shoe clutch..
Run 1.1 springs and cut about 1-2 mm off the ends that hold on the shoe.. ( I would try 1mm first...)... make sure all shoes are equall.. and be prepared for more clutch maintenance than with stock clutch...
You could also try to drill the aluminum shoes to lighten them...

just some thoughts..

BTW.. how do you like the Plus 7?


Plus 7 is great. Thats not the motor I am running though. I have been running my v spec.
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Old 08-07-2007, 07:12 PM   #3818
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Any suggestions for decent priced servos?
i know some guys have had some problems with hitch servos, but im running them in my buggy and truggy and never have had a problem....5996 T/B, 5997 steering...
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Old 08-07-2007, 07:16 PM   #3819
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i know some guys have had some problems with hitch servos, but im running them in my buggy and truggy and never have had a problem....5996 T/B, 5997 steering...
What would you guys consider the minimum torque and transit speed for steering and throttle servos?

I plan on racing at a few different tracks, but they are all pretty tight and dont have long straights. One track is like a 20 second lap or so, not sure about the other.

Im pretty sold on the Werks B3 as a motor, sounds inexpensive and good for tight tracks, which is pretty much 2/2 in my book
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Old 08-07-2007, 07:20 PM   #3820
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i like my T/B servos to be around 140oz in. at .10 speed...

as for the B3PRO thats a great choice for the short tracks...team it up with a JP1 pipe and its a killer low end combo...
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Old 08-07-2007, 07:32 PM   #3821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frost99999 View Post
What would you guys consider the minimum torque and transit speed for steering and throttle servos?

I plan on racing at a few different tracks, but they are all pretty tight and dont have long straights. One track is like a 20 second lap or so, not sure about the other.

Im pretty sold on the Werks B3 as a motor, sounds inexpensive and good for tight tracks, which is pretty much 2/2 in my book

I use the JR 8800T on steering and the JR 8800S on throttle. Or just use the 8800T on both. If you don't plan on running on anything larger than the track described, then I would consider getting the Novarossi N21B 2001 BF It's one of those engines that will stay tuned all day long and be just as reliable. I know that the Werks engines have had some hiccups with the carburetors. I think that they have been corrected on the new Team Line edition engines.

-Seann
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Old 08-07-2007, 07:36 PM   #3822
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panther, yes the carb problem with the werks engines has been addressed, and werks has an all new 2 needle carb instead of the old collari 3 needle carb....
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Old 08-07-2007, 07:43 PM   #3823
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Will digital servos work with a standard FM radio? I have a JR radio, its an older XR3 FM.
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Old 08-07-2007, 07:47 PM   #3824
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Will digital servos work with a standard FM radio? I have a JR radio, its an older XR3 FM.
yes they will....
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Old 08-08-2007, 07:13 AM   #3825
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I have just gotten into nitro RC offroad in the past 4 months. I am a long time electric RC plane guy so I know the value of not overdoing it out of the gate and asking for sage advice. I have really become interested in racing and I have a Jammin X1 RTR. I got this before the racing bug bit so I was wondering what would be the first things I should concentrate on upgrading should be? It has the stock .28 in it now and I don't want to break the bank on just an engine just yet, I would rather focus on better handling, durability, weight and such till I got better with the controls and actually started racing. Unless it would be wise to start with the engine.
Thanks,
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