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Old 07-17-2007, 09:15 PM   #3706
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Wow.
I dont really dig rc anymore
sorry to hear that....
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Old 07-17-2007, 09:46 PM   #3707
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Are you all using the Mugen long grey springs or the Mugen short grey springs?????
Well, i have seen people post up saying they use the longs(mbx5r), but I found i couldnt even get my rear arms level with the longs. Gary Guest runs the short(mbx) springs. I'm gonna try to dig rc twice as much now to try to make up for ofna driver 777
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Old 07-18-2007, 03:26 AM   #3708
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I beleive they are parts #'s 0506 and 0509 ... they are labeled as "short" but like ralleyebmx said, with the others it is impossible to get the proper ride height . Hope this helps!
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Old 07-18-2007, 07:35 PM   #3709
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Does anybody have a problem with there 2 screws backing out of the front diff case? Its where the chassis seems to rub the ground from jumping and landing. And I wonder the next kit they come out with a kit can they move these screws 2 mm backwards or forwards?
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Old 07-18-2007, 08:28 PM   #3710
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heres my FTE, I will be racing for the first time on Aug 4 wish me luck and I will post up on my first race day and tell you how the Jammin was and how I did, I am running M11/spektrum radio, TTR starter box, RB WS7iii with RB#6 plug, JP1 pipe/manifold(switching to TTR 2035 before race hopefully), Werks Racing 30% fuel, the car is 3f-7c-2r diffs (mugen fuids)may switch to 5-7-3, the shocks are and 50f / 35r (associated oil)standard pistons with red springs(I have the mugen greys as well), Im kinda worried about my servos, I have a JR z590 for steeringand z550 for t/b, I hope they survive( Ace 1015 and 1313 in near future).......Im hoping the rig works good for me as it is my first nitro race and first race in over 19 years LOL, I'm pretty stoked, I just want to be calm and turn some laps consistently, im not looking to be fast, I just hope I dont break





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Old 07-18-2007, 08:37 PM   #3711
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Originally Posted by prphze View Post
Does anybody have a problem with there 2 screws backing out of the front diff case? Its where the chassis seems to rub the ground from jumping and landing. And I wonder the next kit they come out with a kit can they move these screws 2 mm backwards or forwards?
Try using CA glue as loctite and see if that cures your problem.


Scuba Steve,

I'll see you this weekend then, I'll post some pics of my car tomorrow. It'll be an easy one to find.

-Seann
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Old 07-18-2007, 09:02 PM   #3712
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Try using CA glue as loctite and see if that cures your problem.
Actually, I wouldn't use Loctite on those metal to plastic connections. Some brands of loctite make some chemical reaction with the plastic and break up the threads in the plastic. It has happened to me before, when I used to put loctite on everything I screwed into my chassis. But a certain off-brand caused my plastic threads to "corrode" or rot or something, so what I do it use a thick CA glue or shoe-goo works even better. Any silicone-based adhesive will work fine, but CA is usually what most people have in their pit boxes.
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Old 07-18-2007, 09:14 PM   #3713
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That's what he said Mac. Use ca AS a loctite, not OR loctite. lol
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Old 07-18-2007, 09:48 PM   #3714
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That's what he said Mac. Use ca AS a loctite, not OR loctite. lol
LMFAO,

Thanks for clarifying it for him Scott.
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Old 07-18-2007, 09:57 PM   #3715
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pwnzor, good luck in your first race back!!!!!!!LOL it brings back memories of my first race with my jammin buggy, good times.....just remember win, lose or DNF, its all about the fun factor....
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:07 PM   #3716
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pwnzor, good luck in your first race back!!!!!!!LOL it brings back memories of my first race with my jammin buggy, good times.....just remember win, lose or DNF, its all about the fun factor....
thanks a lot man, I appreciate the kind words, and absolutely it is about fun, Im just gonna be slow and steady, try to make a pace and be consistent, just try to turn a fair amount of laps without breaking, or breaking someone else, I want to be courteous on the track to others, I hope they are the same, but I know thats asking for too much in off road LOL
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:24 PM   #3717
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slow and steady is a good way to get the feel for racing, and as time goes on you will find yourself getting faster and faster (i did).....i remember by my 4th or 5th race i had got a good feel for the jammin buggy and then the racer in me surfaced next thing you know i was blast around the track like a mad man, but even though i made it a point to never push some one off the track, and because of it i got a rep as being a nice guy and its a good feeling not being considered the track bully....nitro racing can really bring out the A$$ in some guys...

BTW thats a good looking jammin buggy you got there....
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:39 PM   #3718
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Diggin the UpGrade goods
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:59 PM   #3719
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Originally Posted by prphze View Post
Does anybody have a problem with there 2 screws backing out of the front diff case? Its where the chassis seems to rub the ground from jumping and landing. And I wonder the next kit they come out with a kit can they move these screws 2 mm backwards or forwards?
You have 2 options. Use longer screws. I am using them front and rear and problem is solved.
Or replace the gearbox casing.

The screws will loosen everytime unless you do either.
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Old 07-19-2007, 12:45 AM   #3720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prphze View Post
Does anybody have a problem with there 2 screws backing out of the front diff case? Its where the chassis seems to rub the ground from jumping and landing. And I wonder the next kit they come out with a kit can they move these screws 2 mm backwards or forwards?
Hiya,
Have you replaced the bottom A/B suspension hinge pin mount to a metal one? if so you need to use shorter bolts on the screws holding it to the gearbox, otherwise the screws coming up from the bottom hit the end of the A/B mounting bolts, damaging the threads, allowing them to come out easier

Hope this helps...........
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