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Old 04-24-2007, 08:29 AM   #3466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerseyboy
My setup:

Front
B-block
Shock length 102mm
50wt Ofna oil
#54 pistons.
Inside on the arm, middle on the tower.
Upper arm middle, ackerman middle hole.
2 degrees negative camber, slight toe-out.
Stock sway-bar

Rear
3.5 degree toe block, 1 degree anti-squat
Shock length 125 mm
40wt ofna
#54 pistons
Shocks middle on the tower, inside on the arm
Camber link outside hole on hub, drilled in the tower (more on this later)
2 degrees negative camber
Stock sway-bar

Diff oils f/c/r 5K/7K/2K

First off, you need to get your diffs right. Keep 5K in the front, put 7K Center, and 2K in the rear. If you go higher in the rear, you'll get more on-power steering but a "looser" car when giving throttle.. Also, try to go with the 2.5 rear toe-in to get more steering in general.
Thank you very much! I'll set it up tonight. I appreciate the help!
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Old 04-24-2007, 09:01 AM   #3467
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Originally Posted by wd40prerunner
ya thats me that funny. are you racing this weekend
No racing for me this weekend because of this...

Jammin X1 CR FTE Roller $285 Shipped

I'll be down for a couple of weeks until I get my new kit and get it all built. I can't wait!
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Old 04-24-2007, 11:31 AM   #3468
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Default diff question

Lets say my diff looks like this: 5front, 7middle, 2 rear. What would increasing the middle to 10k do to the car.
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Old 04-24-2007, 04:38 PM   #3469
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Quote:
More all-wheel drive effect
Better acceleration
Increases on power steering (reduces understeer)
Better suited on high-bite, smooth tracks
Car can be nervous to drive especially if a high power engine is used - you might need to be smooth on the throttle
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Old 04-24-2007, 05:04 PM   #3470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blanks596
Lets say my diff looks like this: 5front, 7middle, 2 rear. What would increasing the middle to 10k do to the car.
It would make it harder to drive on most tracks - more of a chance of oversteering exiting corners.

The lighter you go with the middle diff oil the more power that gets transfered forward under acceleration. This is because the as cars weight is transfered to the rear under acceleration the middle diff finds it easier to transfer the engines power to the front wheels as there is less resistance. - This can be good for loose tracks as the front wheels tend to pull you out of the corners reducing the chance of a spin.
The thicker the middle diff oil the less effect weight transfer under accelleration effects the power transfer making the car more 4WD. - This will increase aceleration on a high bite track (where spining out is less of an issue) as all 4 wheels are driving.
Having your middle diff set too light may also cause your front tyres to wear faster and possibly balloon up on the straights (more of an issue with Truggies)
Just my $0.02
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Old 04-24-2007, 05:21 PM   #3471
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Sleeve of my Jammin .21 after being modded by RJ Mods.net Going to ripppp!
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Old 04-24-2007, 06:21 PM   #3472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin&quot View Post
I just got my CRT .5w/ O.S .12 TG today!! Cant wait to get home and put it together.
Mate let me know how you go with it please.
I've got an OS TZ.12 (P) for mine so it should be balistic!
Just wondering what would be the best servos to use for it as the ones recomended in the manual are only around 1kg torque?
What are you going to use for servos?
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Old 04-24-2007, 07:11 PM   #3473
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http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_34...owhatan/tm.htm

scroll through the pictures if you want to see the first race of the tournament that i TQed at and won! scroll down a bit in the thread to see them. i am the one in the turquois shirt and sunglasses, and my car has the big #2 on the front as in my avatar. i will get a podium shot soon.
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Old 04-24-2007, 09:49 PM   #3474
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Default CRT .5 Servos

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCRacing.com.au
Mate let me know how you go with it please.
What are you going to use for servos?

Well I went with the Hitec's.
HS-5245MG for steering and
HS-225MG for throttle
I got to run 1.25 tanks for break in tonight(in the driveway,not track use)
I had my end points dialed and the brakes backed way off and the 225MG died on me : not even 1-1/2 tanks of run time.Not impressed.I have read the JR's are better but are alot more$$.Maybe worth it.We will have to see how the 5245MG holds up for steering.Probably will get another 5245 to start.

The TG seemed decent just the little i ran mine,it was still way fat.My buddies(TG also) which is more broken in looks plenty fast.Track time will tell.I like so far,except for the 225MG servo.
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Old 04-25-2007, 12:58 AM   #3475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_34...owhatan/tm.htm

scroll through the pictures if you want to see the first race of the tournament that i TQed at and won! scroll down a bit in the thread to see them. i am the one in the turquois shirt and sunglasses, and my car has the big #2 on the front as in my avatar. i will get a podium shot soon.
Mankitty
You have a SP2 and a Jammin. Can you Please check if the drivesahfts of the Kyosho will work on the Jammin X1.
What is the lengths of the
Centre driveshafts, rear and front shaft. If you can the total length end to end. Thanks man
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Old 04-25-2007, 06:13 AM   #3476
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hey jerseyboy,
i do not have the SP2 777, only the standard chassis, so the driveshafts are not the same length. however i will still check and see if the driveshafts fit. i believe that Kyosho driveshafts are better than the Jammin ones.
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Old 04-25-2007, 06:16 AM   #3477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
hey jerseyboy,
i do not have the SP2 777, only the standard chassis, so the driveshafts are not the same length. however i will still check and see if the driveshafts fit. i believe that Kyosho driveshafts are better than the Jammin ones.
Thanks Mate. I believe the outdrives of the Kyosho are the same. If the driveshafts work I will replace mine with the K's. They last forever.
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Old 04-25-2007, 08:37 AM   #3478
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Quote:
Thanks Mate. I believe the outdrives of the Kyosho are the same. If the driveshafts work I will replace mine with the K's. They last forever.
well that's for sure, ensuring that you are using dogbones. however, i am not sure if the 777 unis and the Jammin unis are the same length.
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Old 04-25-2007, 06:17 PM   #3479
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pictures from my TQ and 1st place finish.
Attached Thumbnails
Jammin X1 - so close yet so far-az86220.jpg   Jammin X1 - so close yet so far-eq78813.jpg   Jammin X1 - so close yet so far-ey70605.jpg   Jammin X1 - so close yet so far-hb80993.jpg  
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Old 04-25-2007, 06:18 PM   #3480
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more.
Attached Thumbnails
Jammin X1 - so close yet so far-hc94174.jpg   Jammin X1 - so close yet so far-hf99875.jpg   Jammin X1 - so close yet so far-qc38774.jpg   Jammin X1 - so close yet so far-us53947.jpg  
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