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Old 12-20-2006, 04:38 AM   #2836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfc_tech
it looks the same like the hong nor one??? im using lightened chassis now. any diffrent?

Thats a DRAGON RACING Chassis and even when it seems to be 7075 a couple of guys in my country bended those chassis just after 2-3 weeks of use ... so, at least for me its a no-no ...

If you want a new chassis, get the stock FTE one, or the new Fioroni (my wife bought me one and its packed under the christmas tree !!!) ...

cya,
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Old 12-20-2006, 06:09 PM   #2837
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yea..i got the FTE one. but i would love to have the fioroni. I wish my wife thought of that
oh well, as long as i get another new engine.. she's ok then
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Old 12-20-2006, 10:49 PM   #2838
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...
im waiting anxiously for my friend arggh for the exclusive jammin modified shots. i hope he's ok. he's busy racing all weekends in and out.
till then... my truggy is warming up for next bashing meeting.
here it is...one of so many...



How cool and how so much time this guy has???!!!

picture taken by madduckpro.
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Old 12-22-2006, 12:02 PM   #2839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
what i meant was that they are too expensive for their purpose. i believe what they do is when your diff rotates faster, it will tighten up and therefore limit opposing wheel rotation. essentially, as the diffs spin faster, you get a similar result as steadily increasing the weight of your diff oil.
That isn't quite right on how the Torsen diffs work. The Torsen stands for TORque SENsing. What the diff does is actively transfer power between the left and right, or front and rear depending on which side has traction. The differential senses load. As the traction goes away from one axle, the load lessens and the diff progressively transfers power AWAY from that side to where the load is increasing,( the opposite side with more traction.) If the side the diff is transfering power to begins to loose traction, the diff takes power away from it and gives it to the other side. It's constantly optimising traction between the two wheels, or axles to make the best of what is available. The down side to the TORSEN style diffs is if the wheel comes off the ground, the diff shoots all the power to that diff like an open differential. Torsens tend to only work good when you can keep all the wheels on the ground. Which is why they are really popular on smooth tracks. They tend to handle a little odd on really bumpy tracks because the diffs are constantly unloading and loosing traction, then slapping the ground and throwing power around. A standard diff with oil in it is going to be much more consistant in the same situation because its not trying to react to the situation in so many different ways. but on a smoother track the Torsen should handle better because it's actively looking for traction under acceleration. Gear driven diffs like the Torsen are more complex then that, there are bias ratios, setup changes, etc. but in the right setting they work, and work well. It's one of the reasons cars like the Integra Type R handle so well because of the trick Torsen style diffs they had.

Roger

Last edited by RogerHewson; 12-22-2006 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 12-22-2006, 02:13 PM   #2840
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i guess i was a little wrong....
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Old 12-23-2006, 05:15 AM   #2841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerHewson
That isn't quite right on how the Torsen diffs work. The Torsen stands for TORque SENsing. What the diff does is actively transfer power between the left and right, or front and rear depending on which side has traction. The differential senses load. As the traction goes away from one axle, the load lessens and the diff progressively transfers power AWAY from that side to where the load is increasing,( the opposite side with more traction.) If the side the diff is transfering power to begins to loose traction, the diff takes power away from it and gives it to the other side. It's constantly optimising traction between the two wheels, or axles to make the best of what is available. The down side to the TORSEN style diffs is if the wheel comes off the ground, the diff shoots all the power to that diff like an open differential. Torsens tend to only work good when you can keep all the wheels on the ground. Which is why they are really popular on smooth tracks. They tend to handle a little odd on really bumpy tracks because the diffs are constantly unloading and loosing traction, then slapping the ground and throwing power around. A standard diff with oil in it is going to be much more consistant in the same situation because its not trying to react to the situation in so many different ways. but on a smoother track the Torsen should handle better because it's actively looking for traction under acceleration. Gear driven diffs like the Torsen are more complex then that, there are bias ratios, setup changes, etc. but in the right setting they work, and work well. It's one of the reasons cars like the Integra Type R handle so well because of the trick Torsen style diffs they had.

Roger

thanks mate! appreciated.
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Old 12-28-2006, 05:59 PM   #2842
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is this jp base engine..

Jammin Products is proud to introduce two new engines. A .21 and a .28 size engine. Jammin Jay himself did the R&D on these engines and paid special attention to the details that are so important for off-road R/C racing. Such as durability, ease of tuning, and driveabilty. Tweaks to the materials, crank timing, and tolerances all played a part in getting the engine to the high performance edge that Jammin Jay requires. Both engines deliver excellent bottom end power with great top end run out. Both include Turbo Plug type heads. While the .21 is tuned for the buggies, testing proved it to be more than capable in the truggy class. The .28 is all out big block performance but still very easy to drive and gets surprisingly good fuel mileage. Turbo Glow plug included. Made in Italy

.21 Jammin Engine = Part # 51250
.28 Jammin Engine = Part # 51251
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Jammin X1 - so close yet so far-jammin-engine.jpg  
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Old 12-29-2006, 07:28 AM   #2843
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Hey guys, i need to know what the rear "anti-squat" plate will do.
i have two option ones i can try, which one is best for hard packed tracks??
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Old 12-29-2006, 07:58 AM   #2844
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I know that more anti-squat will make the rear end feel stiffer, so it would have more steering, but less rear traction. Less anti-squat is the opposite.

Team Driver Tips by Chad Bradley

I like to adjust the anti squat for the ruts. A majority of the time, if the track is smooth, I like the 2 degree block. Generally on a smooth track the 2 degree block is always best. But depending on the shape of the ruts or how fast you're hitting them determines if more or less is better. Let us say you're driving full throttle down a straight away that's pretty rutted and you're hitting the bumps at a pretty high rate of speed. More anti squat is better because its not allowing your car to bottom out. If you're driving out of a tight turn and it's rutty on the exit, less would be better. And if a jump is rutty on the face (and is causing car to jump inconsistent), then less is better most of the time. The shape of the bump will also determine which is better. Sharp rut (pot hole type) more anti squat is better. Rolling rut (usually seen on loamy tracks) less is better. When I say less anti squat, I'm referring to the 1 degree and more is the 2 or 2.5. I haven't yet tried the 3 on the buggy. It also has an effect on how much your car squats on throttle. More anti squat is less squat and vice versa.
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Old 12-29-2006, 08:02 AM   #2845
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Thanks dude!!
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Old 12-29-2006, 06:18 PM   #2846
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i just read the RCCA Mag, december issue, pg 232: Understanding differentials. go check the Torsen Talk.
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Old 12-31-2006, 04:06 PM   #2847
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arghh
is this jp base engine..

Jammin Products is proud to introduce two new engines. A .21 and a .28 size engine. Jammin Jay himself did the R&D on these engines and paid special attention to the details that are so important for off-road R/C racing. Such as durability, ease of tuning, and driveabilty. Tweaks to the materials, crank timing, and tolerances all played a part in getting the engine to the high performance edge that Jammin Jay requires. Both engines deliver excellent bottom end power with great top end run out. Both include Turbo Plug type heads. While the .21 is tuned for the buggies, testing proved it to be more than capable in the truggy class. The .28 is all out big block performance but still very easy to drive and gets surprisingly good fuel mileage. Turbo Glow plug included. Made in Italy

.21 Jammin Engine = Part # 51250
.28 Jammin Engine = Part # 51251

As far as i know, its a Picco P7 based engine ...

cya,
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Old 12-31-2006, 07:10 PM   #2848
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i like the look of these Jammin engines. i have been wanting one of those P7 Evo engines now that they have been on sale, and now i know why at least!
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Old 01-02-2007, 06:24 AM   #2849
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i am starting over this race year with a fresh setup. i race on a very smooth, usually hard packed track (clay/top soil), with two wooden ramps that send u no more than 3 feet off the ground, so bump handling is really a non-issue. the track is relatively tight, with several 90 and 180 degree turns. the owner will be adding a few banked turns this year, but i still will need a good handling buggy. what kind of setup do you guys recommend? i have the old Pro kit with a number of other hop ups.
thanks
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Old 01-02-2007, 02:45 PM   #2850
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Talking Track Set-Up

macnkitty my suggestions on set-up would be outer hole on bottom for shocks, middle on top or even try inner hole on top both front and rear.
Try 60wt front and 50wt rear Losi oil, tighten your sway bars 0-2mm front & 3-4mm rear and run the thicker optional sway bars f & R.
0 Degree anti squat with 3.0-3.5 rear toe block with 2 degree toe out on front.
Arms level front and rear, camber 2deg front and 3deg rear.
Rear uprights on the bottom upper hole and outer hole on top.
Rear camber links bottom inside hole on shock tower.
Well that's my set-up i would try based on the track you have described.

Are you going to change your buggy to the new FTE?
I would as it has better options.
We now have an FTE option kit that has all the alloy parts (centre diff mount, front c-hubs, rear uprights) but no Pipe this time.
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