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Old 11-13-2006, 06:18 AM   #2716
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in the USA. oh ya, i forgot you're in another country.
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Old 11-13-2006, 08:29 AM   #2717
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jerseybou if you have a jp-2 you will get more power out of that go tech engine, the three chamber pipes seem to give you better mileage at the cost of horsepower, put a jp-2 on that 7 port and you will be set. the power is nice and smooth but still strong, if you need more bottom end give the Go Tech 5 port a try, better for medium to small tracks.
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Old 11-13-2006, 08:47 AM   #2718
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just a random question but kind of pertinent:

i have a Picco .27 (old version of Picco .28) and it has loads of bottom end. am i making a mistake by having a JP-1 on it? do you think it has too much bottom end? it has really good acceleration and does wheelies too (on a truggy! ). should i switch to a JP-2 to help the top end, since the bottom end is strong enough?
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Old 11-13-2006, 11:40 AM   #2719
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when running a .26 or above engine you shoudl always put a top end pipe on it for 2 reasons. 1 is that .26 or above engines put out a lot of power even in a truggy and a top end pipe will help smooth it out a little bit and 2. bigger engines generally can't spin the rpm's of .21 engines, so you wantto get that .26 to top out as much as you can, so definately go with a jp-2 or 086 pipe
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Old 11-13-2006, 04:32 PM   #2720
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thanks man.
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:03 PM   #2721
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Check this feedback for the Go
"
Quote:
as i was saying ran my v-spec then ran my go-tech (it the 7port version which has been modded by massive) back to back a couple of weeks ago. Both had new clutchs mugen 1.0 with mugen alluminum shoes and 14t bells. I was running the v-spec on 30% with 4%castor and 8% syth. the gotech was on massive mods hb444 which is 25% with 12% oil. motors were run in the same car with the same tires and the same o.s. t2050 pipe.

i paid close attention to a few of the jumps one that was straight after a hair pin another one that had a bit of a run up and one that had a big run up and a big gap. and also on the straight.

the jump coming out the hair pin is basically you have about a foot of run up before hitting it. the v-spec would land about a tire diameter further then the go-tech each time, on jump with the medium run up the go had about a tire diameter on the v-spec, and on the long run up the go had about a car length on the v-spec.

form a standing start the v-spec just seem to have more initial bite from the line as if from idle the v-spec spools up quicker to clutch engagement. Comming onto the straight its about the same but the go just winds up quicker and further the the v-spec, it would get to the v-specs max revs sooner and out revs it by a scary amount as well, the track was being changed at the time and the straight was alot longer then usual and most straights i've seen the v-spec was reving out at about 2/3 the length and the Go was peaking just about 4/5 the length.

tune wise? v-spec is just so simple can't be beat, ive had two and never had one stop during a race, i have to say the same for the Go so far but it just seems more fiddely to get the tune just right on the lsn. the hsn has not been a problem.

as for quality the v-spec looks better externally but the go-tech looks as good internally bearings i hope to be better then the v-spec. The Go-tech carb seems ordinary the v-specs is much smoother.

Which one would i chose. Well the other day (after my little research session) i was putting my buggy back together and had both motors just sitting there and i chose the v-spec and the main reason for that was i new i'ld have the v-spec tuned in no time and be learning the new track layout straight away, at this point in time i'm just not as confident with the GO tune wise though i've raced it a couple of times no problems at all.

I will run the GO til it dies before i judge it fully, much the same as i did with the v-spec.

p.s i sort of wish i had a stock 5 port version to compare with also. "

Last edited by Jerseyboy; 11-13-2006 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:12 PM   #2722
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Rocket42. I dont have a JP2 to try but from what I hear the HN2027 is supposed to be the similar mid to top. I havent really played around alot with this engine but I hear good things.

Quote:
just a random question but kind of pertinent:i have a Picco .27 (old version of Picco .28) and it has loads of bottom end. am i making a mistake by having a JP-1 on it? do you think it has too much bottom end? it has really good acceleration and does wheelies too (on a truggy! ). should i switch to a JP-2 to help the top end, since the bottom end is strong enough?
I found .28 engines are very torquey at the bottom and does not pull hard and smooth to the top. A JP1 makes it worse and uncontrolable at the bottom. The JP2 makes cools the bottom and shifts the pull more to the midrange. The advantage is that you drivetrain do not take a beating. Ive checked my CRT's drivetrain and the unis are shot.
Ive decided to stick to 21's its better allround.
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:54 PM   #2723
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thanks for that comparison jersey boy i know it helped your decision but to tell you the truth thats the worst response i have heard about the engines yet, out of everyone that i know that has run one and reported back to me they came to the same dilema looking at the go engine in the box and there other they all usually seem to come back to the go, like he said i am sure he would have been happier with the 5 port model. When he finds out he gets more gallons thru the go than the v-spec he will probably leave the v-spec behind but the price you aussies get on v-specs its hard not to pass them up, over here in the u.s. the go 7 port sells for about $75 less than the v-spec and the 5 port sells for $100 less. People are trying the go all over the country now and i haven't heard a single complaint it really is a testament to the mfgr. hard work.
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Old 11-13-2006, 11:13 PM   #2724
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Rocket42 I went to your website. I see you sell the Go 21 engines. Give me some of your experience on the engine. What pipe you found works best etc

Whats your guys take on the Carbon fibre upgrades. ie front plate and servo plate.
In my experience it sucks. This weekend my carbon fibre servo plate broke. it broke where the transponder mounts on it. This is the second time CF is dropping me. First I broke a front plate a while ago. I was glad when HN introduced the CNC upgrade front plate. Now the servo plate. I ordered the RTR aluminium plate as the CF plate is not worth the money. I cannot understand why its called an upgrade when it actually makes it weaker. It only looks better. The Fioroni one are very! expensive.

Last edited by Jerseyboy; 11-14-2006 at 01:47 AM.
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Old 11-14-2006, 04:02 AM   #2725
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Quote:
Whats your guys take on the Carbon fibre upgrades. ie front plate and servo plate.
from what i am hearing the only CF part on a stock X1 that needs to be replaced is the front upper brace. i got the King Headz plate before i even broke my CF one just to be safe. however the other parts like the servo tray and the diff plate should not be areas prone to breaking. you have probably had some strange coincidences that you broke the radio plate because that area is rather well protected. and don't get the rtr one, it looks "noobish" and, though it sounds ubsurd, the CB is actually stronger than the aluminum plate. if treated properly the CB can outlast aluminum, steel, and sometimes even titanium (sometimes). not to mention the fact that it's also a bunch lighter than any other material too. whenever you use CB, always put a little layer of CA glue around the edges to strengthen it further.
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Old 11-14-2006, 05:18 AM   #2726
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Quote:
and don't get the rtr one, it looks "noobish" a
I know it looks ugly but trust me its stronger that CF. This is my experience. The CF plate broke as I had the transponder mounted on it and took a tumble.
The aluminium would never break. I just dont feel comfortable paying 9 times the price of a standard for the Fioroni.
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Old 11-14-2006, 05:49 AM   #2727
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well, you don't need to get the Fioroni plate, just get the stock Jammin plate. and the thing about aluminum is that it doesn't break because it just bends, so that makes your chassis prone to tweaking. however the CF is stiffer, but more brittle than aluminum. it will not bend and therefore will not tweak. the advantages outweigh the cons. but whatever works for you is fine.
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Old 11-14-2006, 07:55 AM   #2728
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jersey boy i am the north american distributor for the Go Tech line of engines, we have run different pipes on the engines but we always come back to the jp-1 or jp-2 becuase they are a good value and the hardcoated ones are extremely durable. for the 5 port and 7 port engines in a buggy the jp-2 works good, you want a little later clutch engagement on the 7 port. in truggy on a medium to tight track we reccomend the jp-1 my team driver was running a 5port in his truggy at hot rods in saugus ca. with a jp-1 and said he was pulling wheelies. but a open track still run the jp-2 in the truggy. For u.s. style tracks i only reccomend the 7 port engine for large tracks without quick turns to jumps and there is very few tracks in the u.s. like that. we ran the jp-3 and like i said it kinda stiffled the power but it gives better run time, run time is not an issue with the go engines so i don't reccomend the jp-3 at all.
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Old 11-14-2006, 11:14 PM   #2729
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Rocket42 Please confirm which engine I have. On the box it reads 5+2 and its a Gold head engine.
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Old 11-15-2006, 12:48 AM   #2730
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i agree with the high torque engine should use top end pipe & vice versa. im using my sts .28 with the JP2 and it gives me the top end speed at the straight. even with this.. it still can wheelie and get over jump in a quick dash. the sts has so much torque.

for buggy... i would recommend sts team engine. the green head. ask tabushi about this. his podium finsih proves this. with .21 engine...u can go with the JP1. this to increase the torque. well at least thats my theory.
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