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Old 11-10-2006, 04:55 AM   #2701
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Cool Jerseyboy, let us know how it goes please.
They look like good value for money engines hey.
I've been running my Plus21-5T in my Truggy and it's awesome.
It's got so much bottem end grunt it balistic and just keeps pulling hard all the way to the top.
Novarossi have really set a new benchmark this time hey.
I have a Plus21-7BT also which i have to run in yet but they are supposed to be even more powerful so i'll let you guys know how it goes when i crank it over.
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Old 11-10-2006, 05:13 AM   #2702
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I tried to figure out whats different on this truggy. I only find the pic. No specs. You getting me all worked up for a new Jammin Truggy.
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Old 11-11-2006, 07:10 AM   #2703
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technical question for you guys that have had the jammin for awhile now (professor, you out there? ) i was looking at my brake linkiage the other day and then saw a linkage on another buggy where it had both brake cam arms above the diff plate...might have been a TTR but i can't remember for sure. i like the idea of having both brake linkages easier to access and not having to bend the lower linkage to go over the diff. can anyone see a problem with shortening the brak cam arms enough so that both will fit above the diff plate? my only concern is because they will be shorter, will they loose enough leverage to overwork the servo or makes the brake really weak? any ideas or input would be great.....this is one of my winter projects with the buggy. thanks!

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Old 11-11-2006, 05:53 PM   #2704
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don't worry about that, it doesn't rub anything.
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Old 11-11-2006, 06:21 PM   #2705
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it's not that it rubs anything, it's that it's a pain in the sack getting to the adjustment nut on the front brake linkage!!! it would simplify things for me so i was just wondering what you guys thought about it...
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Old 11-11-2006, 06:53 PM   #2706
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Above and below the diff brace provides better pull from the servo as it is loaded on the top and bottom of the servo horn rather than both on top.

Which bit do you have to bend? And why is it hard to adjust front bias, where is your adjusting nut?
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Old 11-11-2006, 07:35 PM   #2707
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Jared Tebo using a Jammin X1-CR-FTE is Top Qualifier in Pro Buggy

Jared Tebo picked-up Taylor's Jammin X-1 back-up buggy to run in the R/C Pro finals. .... Taylor qualified third, Matt Gosch qualifies fifth, and Chad Bradley also getting in the A final.
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Old 11-12-2006, 12:27 PM   #2708
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Quote:
it's not that it rubs anything, it's that it's a pain in the sack getting to the adjustment nut on the front brake linkage!!! it would simplify things for me so i was just wondering what you guys thought about it...
i don't find it very hard to adjust the front linkage. maybe you just have large fingers and can't fit then down into the crevace. i think and operation might help this. or a kind wife.
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Old 11-12-2006, 11:29 PM   #2709
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Greetings Fellow Jammin drivers.
Hope you had a good weekend. We had our 2nd last race meeting of the year.
I have some feedback.
Firstly my raceday did not go to wonderfull. Had a few issues with my buggy and engine.
The Engine I used was my Crono RS5. I was a bit dissapointed in the beginning as I expected a similar performance to the Vspec I have. I used my JP3 pipe on the RS5 thinking that this pipe will be the endall for most engines.
I could not clear our triples. We have a set of triples ie 6 jumps after each other. So you have to set yourself up to do 3 and then 3. In order for this you need the power as well. With my RS5 and the JP3 pipe I could not clear it. I was flipping all the time costing me some valuable time and position.
I was really dissapointed in my engine as I felt under powered.
I had my Vspec and with my new HN2027 pipe in my truggy. I know the JP3 works well with the Vspec so I decided in the end to stick the HN2027 on the RS5.
I do not really know much about the 2027 as this is supposed to be a top end pipe.
I stuck it on the RS5 and wow everything changed. I think that pipe just brought the life out of the RS5. This engine is wicked. Its very quick.You point and shoot. I found this setup alot better. I could clear the triples and had to slow down my throttle speed on the servo. The tyres will just spin if you give too much throttle.

I also had some weird issues with shock setups. Maybe you can assist. I had 50F 40R shock oils and found my car kept nose diving on all jumps. I changed back to 60F 50R and it was right.
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Old 11-13-2006, 12:00 AM   #2710
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RCRacing.com.au Some feedback on the GO21 7port. I ran one in over the weekend. This engine is tight. So tight I had to heat it to 100 degrees C to get it to spin on the starter box. You have to be patient with the run in procedure. I ran it through 7 tanks of heat cycling and still had to use the heatgun to start.
About performance. I useda HN2047 pipe on the GO21. This engine is smooth. Probably the smoothest Ive owned. It feels similar to the Vspec just smoother. I cannotsay if it has the same power as I need to take it through its paces. All I can say is that the GO21 shifts the CRT around easy. The truck feels light when you drive. You give and she goes but smooth. I will give you some more feedback later. I'll post some pics later
Attached Thumbnails
Jammin X1 - so close yet so far-go21-sl-6-.jpg   Jammin X1 - so close yet so far-go21-sl-1-.jpg  

Last edited by Jerseyboy; 11-13-2006 at 01:05 AM.
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:06 AM   #2711
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Quote:
I also had some weird issues with shock setups. Maybe you can assist. I had 50F 40R shock oils and found my car kept nose diving on all jumps. I changed back to 60F 50R and it was right.
well you can semi-fix this problem with two simple, clean methods. the easiest is to stay on the throttle all the way up the jump and keep on it for a little bit in the air. that's what i do when i want to fly nice and level. if it tail dives then do the opposite, let off the throttle a little before you did before.

or you can use the asjustable wing mount to help this. change the wing mount to a more aggressive angle so that more air pushes down on the wing. this will equalize the aerodynamic forces on the buggy.


or you could go through the process of removing shocks, draining them, oiling them, bleeding them, and retesting.

and was that pipe you used a Hong Nor pipe? from the Hyper 8?
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:43 AM   #2712
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macnkitty2002
This problem is not fixable with use of throttle and brake. Tried it. Neither wing. Its somehow to do with shock setup and ride height. After going to 60 50 shock oils it came right. Pitty I cannot post a video clip. My wife took some clips.
Anyways the pipe is a new pipe from HN. I confirmed via my supplier today that both the HN2047 and HN2027 is mid to topend pipes that enhances bottom and top. My experience is that these pipe does different things to different engines. Trial and error.
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Jammin X1 - so close yet so far-picture-004.jpg   Jammin X1 - so close yet so far-picture-003.jpg  
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:46 AM   #2713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerseyboy
macnkitty2002
This problem is not fixable with use of throttle and brake. Tried it. Neither wing. Its somehow to do with shock setup and ride height. After going to 60 50 shock oils it came right. Pitty I cannot post a video clip. My wife took some clips.
Anyways the pipe is a new pipe from HN. I confirmed via my supplier today that both the HN2047 and HN2027 is mid to topend pipes that enhances bottom and top. My experience is that these pipe does different things to different engines. Trial and error.


If you need help on the videos jerserboy send them to me via email on 10mb packages and i will post them here ...

cya,
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:48 AM   #2714
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Quote:
This problem is not fixable with use of throttle and brake. Tried it. Neither wing. Its somehow to do with shock setup and ride height.
ok. things are different for everybody. i guess life is easier for me here in VA!
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:55 AM   #2715
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Clips are 32Mb.

PS. Where is VA
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