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Old 09-28-2006, 06:52 PM   #2536
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man, for a poor guy like me... who 1 year period meaning like 2 or 3 major races only... i just take out & clean it & reoil it. thats all.

i would like to put ceramic beaqring though. i've seen our local hero with the bearing.. man that thing doesnt stop spinning. no wonder he's so fast & tq most of the time.
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Old 09-28-2006, 07:14 PM   #2537
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i mean my buggy rolls very smoothly, since i blew the grease out of the bearings when i got the kit (and i put oil in them of course). some are a little gritty, but a good blast with motor cleaner and some WD-40 makes them nice. however, they do get "wobbly", and that can mess up my diff gear mesh, etc. i have had probably about 20-25 races on the bearings, so i should probably start looking for a new set.
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Old 09-29-2006, 09:07 PM   #2538
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WD40 is not a good lubricant for bearings. It's meant as a solvent, that's why it says it will loosen rusted bolts on the can.
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Old 09-30-2006, 10:55 AM   #2539
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oops. should i get some actual bearing oil then?
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Old 10-01-2006, 03:18 AM   #2540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
oops. should i get some actual bearing oil then?
nay no need if u just wanna be 2nd.
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Old 10-01-2006, 03:57 AM   #2541
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Actually IMO you donít want to remove the grease in the bearings in a 1/8 scale off-road buggy. Just put them in and run them. When the bearings get spun and a high RPM the grease inside the bearings will get flung off the balls and race some and seal the bearing from the inside giving you a better chance of not letting dirt inside which will make the bearings last longer. The bearings will free up some after a few runs all on there own.

Indoor carpet racing is a different story!
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:24 AM   #2542
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i agree with no need to remove the grease from the bearing. My experience, i bought bearing 4 my clutch in a packet of 4. take them out & just put it in. start engine on the box, rev them for a while n feel or look at the bearing from top. if still ok, run them as usual on the track. done for a tank & take the engine out. check the clutch bearing. usually still ok. from here i just put a little bearing oil. n done clutch maintenance. my bearing usually last me 1 major race before i change for next major race. for bashing... i just put back the old one which still can be used.
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Old 10-01-2006, 08:52 AM   #2543
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i really must not be maintaining my buggy very well because i replace my clutch bearings about every 7 races. and at that point, they still feel fine to me(the clutch bell spins freely). however, i still replace them anyways just because everybody else does.
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Old 10-01-2006, 01:30 PM   #2544
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I just buy a pack of new bearings and replace them as neccesary.
They're not expensive so when they start to feel gritty i change mine.
Once they get grit into them the balls wear flat spots onto them and never run true again... or so i've been told.
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Old 10-02-2006, 07:54 AM   #2545
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Default Diff oils

Hi Guys I am new to this forum but I have read this X1 thread all the way.
I have some question regards Diff oils. It seems various drivers prefer various setups. I know the preferred setup for the Jammin X1 seems to be 571 or 572. I personally use 571, works great. However it seems the pros use weird setups. Ive heard setups like 10/30/1, 5/5/10, 10/20/10.
The understanding is that thicker centre oil gives you more drive hence more speed. Speed makes you quicker. Thicker rear diff oil gives you better traction but easier spinout. So where is the compromise. Is this compromise in the driver style?
A bit confusing. I just wanna get some feedback from someone who has done the experimenting.
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Old 10-02-2006, 08:11 AM   #2546
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Anyone intersted in a FTE Jammin buggy with alot of spare parts and extra set of shocks, king headz mono engine mount, king headz front brace, thicker akerman, 2 bodies 1 brand new! Purchased in August, in great shape!

PM for more details.
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:21 AM   #2547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneralG
Anyone intersted in a FTE Jammin buggy with alot of spare parts and extra set of shocks, king headz mono engine mount, king headz front brace, thicker akerman, 2 bodies 1 brand new! Purchased in August, in great shape!

PM for more details.


Any chance to part it out ?, im intrested on a couple of items you mentioned,

Pat
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Old 10-02-2006, 10:23 AM   #2548
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Quote:
Hi Guys I am new to this forum but I have read this X1 thread all the way.....
a few rule of thumbs i have:

for the front diff, the higher the oil, the buggy will hold a tighter line in the turn and will have better mid to exit turning. while a thinner oil up front will give you better initial turn in, it will torque out and start to lose the line halfway through the turn.

for the center diff, a thicker oil will distribute your power more equally between all four wheels, yielding better acceleration through turns. a thinner oil will put more power to your rear wheels, yielding better straight line acceleration.

for the rear diff, thinner oils yield better "pivoting" action, but is more likely to spin out. thicker oil gives better straight line acceleration and truer tracking through the rough stuff.
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Old 10-02-2006, 11:19 AM   #2549
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Guys,


Please check the "2007 Offroad Southamerican Championship 1/8th Buggy (CHILE - Southamerica)" thread on the Offroad section, thanks !!


.
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Old 10-02-2006, 02:25 PM   #2550
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i have a problem with my buggy. last sunday at the races, my throttle servo started glitching. basically, after i landed a jump the steering servo wouldn't move for about 3 seconds (so i hit the pipes a lot). i switched receivers (only because that was quicker than switching servos) to see if that was the problem, but to no avail. the steering servo kept on glitching. strangely though, when i didn't work the throttle the servo was fine. so today i switched out the servo for one i know works, and the same problem persisted except now the throttle servo glitches a little bit too. then i switched transmitters altogether and used a Futaba from another buggy, and the problem was happening again. so, now i know my radio equipment is fine, so it must be something on the buggy that is screwy. if you are familiar with 1/8 throttle setups, you will know that the front and back brakes have separate levers that are guided and pulled by a wire from the servo horn. well, that is a metal on metal contact, which could cause some glitching. it has just started happening and it hasn't happened for the year that i've had my buggy. what should i do? i am thinking about putting some heat shrink wrap on the throttle servo wires that pull the brake levers so that there isn't any metal on metal contact there. i'm going to run to Radioshack now and get some heat shrink, so i'll tell you how it turns out tomarro.
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