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Old 07-03-2006, 09:37 PM   #2266
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Tabushi very cool vid, thanks for posting that.
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:24 PM   #2267
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My Jammin is in the new Do it in the Dirt video. For the NE Pro Series main. Its the first one they show on the pitlane before the race, Its red, pink and white. Its also blowing by a guy on the berm turn in the video.
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Old 07-05-2006, 07:52 PM   #2268
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Default 1/8 scale buggy engines

Hey all,

I was reflecting on the talk about engines in the previous posts. I myself am a witness of the OS RG. I race with SpeedBump57 with my Jammin on a weekly basis on a pretty tight and loose track. All the horsepower in the world is not necessary at the particular track we race on. One weekend, my Vspec went south on me as it kept flaming-out on me. Before the main, I popped in an RG which was my only back-up engine and it was like instant traction-control. I actually drove better with it. I plan on doing some more experimenting with it as I just recently purchased the King Headz cooling head for it. The main downside to this particular engine is that it has horrible fuel-economy, you'd be lucky to get more than 6 minutes/tank. Hopefully the upgraded head will allow me to run a little leaner and stretch it to at least 7 minutes.

On a side note, does anyone have any experience with the OFNA Hyper 0.21 8-port Race engine. I was checking the OFNA and TowerHobby website and the engine claims to have 2.7 hp @ 38,000 rpm. That figure is pretty close to the Vspec's 2.4 hp @ 33,000 rpm. The Hyper 21 sounds pretty appealing in that it retails for only $155! Now, I am aware of the lack of standardization in regards to nitro engine dyno's but these figures are at least within the same ballpark. Everybody let me know what you think, and if this finding is indeed too good to be true.

- Justin
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Old 07-06-2006, 01:34 AM   #2269
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i've seen the ofna 8 port run and it's a pretty good bargain. kind of like the RG, it's a throw-away engine. once it's worn out, it's not worth replacing parts, just buy another engine.
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Old 07-06-2006, 04:13 AM   #2270
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i was looking at that H .21 8 port too. might give one a try someday.
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Old 07-09-2006, 07:00 AM   #2271
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I just got into nitro. I Have recently been racing touring cars. I run a Corally RDX.

I bought a X1 RTR to get my feet wet. (Already spent too much on my TC) I will get it in the mail Monday 7/10/06. Just wanted to know what upgrades I need to make it a X1-CR if I end up getting into 1/8 scale buggies. I'll probably replace a part every couple of weeks or when ever money permits. I have went to the Jammin web site and looked at the upgrade options. My friend said That I wouldn't have to get every single item, but wanted some other opinions. Like what are the most important things I should change first? Here are some of the things that I have in mind to change right off the rip. Shocks, Servos, chassis braces, z brace. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 07-09-2006, 07:26 AM   #2272
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I am having trouble with my setup on my FTE jammin buggy. Can you guys give me some pointers on what to look for or what to do to bring it under control? I am new to off road nitro racing. The track I race on runs from damp to dry / very dry loose to hard packed
What is happening is on the small choppy bumps the rear kicks up, most of the time it kicks up so much that it flips over, some times just enough to through the buggy into a spin and a tumbling spectacle. I have ask some of the locals at the track what I could do, but even though I am having all this trouble I am still making it into the a-mains and I think they feel threaten if I had the proper setup that I could give them a good run. So they just give me hints like you need to work on your setup or you just need to practice more. Maybe itís my engine not giving me enough torque or even to much torque I do not no. This is how I have it set up now

Engine hyper 8 port race

Front
Blue spring full out
45 oil
Upper shock middle
Lower shock inside
Toe out 2deg
Camber 2 deg
No sway bar
Ackerman front hole
Stock shock piston
Full droop minus 2mm
Diff fluid 4000
Arms level
Camber blocks stock

Center diff 7000

Rear
Blue springs full out
30 oil
Upper shock middle
Lower shock inside
Camber 2deg
No sway bar
Stock shock piston
Full droop minus 2mm
Diff fluid 2000
Arms level
Toe stock
Squat stock
Wing position front lower rear upper
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Old 07-09-2006, 07:40 AM   #2273
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Kobiwan

One of the first things I would look at getting is the shock towers that come on the X1CR-FTE Kit, my buddy bend his shock tower on his X1CR-RTR kit on his second outting with the car. Also look into getting Mugen Blue springs and or the Ofna red springs that are on the FTE car. I may be wrong but I think the stock black springs on the RTR are a little soft.

Hope this helps some

Good wheelin to ya
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Old 07-09-2006, 07:56 AM   #2274
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Quote:
I bought a X1 RTR to get my feet wet. (Already spent too much on my TC) I will get it in the mail Monday 7/10/06. Just wanted to know what upgrades I need to make it a X1-CR if I end up getting into 1/8 scale buggies. I'll probably replace a part every couple of weeks or when ever money permits. I have went to the Jammin web site and looked at the upgrade options. My friend said That I wouldn't have to get every single item, but wanted some other opinions. Like what are the most important things I should change first? Here are some
get an FTE front shock tower as Big Trucks said. i am not sure if the RTR diffs are filled with grease or oil, but if they have grease in them, replace it with 5k/7k/2k silicon diff oil to start off. they i'd get a rechargeable Rx pack (don't know if the RTR comes with one or not) for better servo performance. then a better steering servo would help, at least 120 oz of torque for steering duties. lastly (for now), i'd look at some CNC steering knuckles, as the stock cast aluminum ones are brittle. that should get you started.

Quote:
Also look into getting Mugen Blue springs and or the Ofna red springs that are on the FTE car.
the Ofna red springs are for the Big Bore shocks only, so they won't work on the stock RTR shocks. the stock black springs are in between the green (soft) and the blue (medium). he can stick with those for a while.

Quote:
I am having trouble with my setup on my FTE jammin buggy. Can you guys give me some pointers on what to look for or what to do to bring it under control? I am new to off road nitro racing. The track I race on runs from damp to dry / very dry loose to hard packed. What is happening is on the small choppy bumps the rear kicks up, most of the time it kicks up so much that it flips over, some times just enough to through the buggy into a spin and a tumbling spectacle. I have ask some of the locals at the track what I could do, but even though I am having all this trouble I am still making it into the a-mains and I think they feel threaten if I had the proper setup that I could give them a good run. So they just give me hints like you need to work on your setup or you just need to practice more. Maybe itís my engine not giving me enough torque or even to much torque I do not no. This is how I have it set up now
i see in your setup that you say blue springs full out. what does that mean? are you saying that your pre-load is set all the way down? what you need to do is either get softer springs for the rear or use a heavier shock oil in the rear. apparently, your rear shocks are too springy, thus making the rear end hop a lot. by using softer springs, the rear end won't have the springiness to make it hop when it goes over the little jumps, rather it'll soak up the fluctuations in the terrain. or by going with a heavier shock oil in the rear, your shock action will be limited and therefore the shocks can't decend into the "valleys" of the little jumps, rather the rear end will just glide over them. also, when you make your shocks more verticle, it helps to soak up the jumps, so try moving your rear shocks to the outside hole on the upper and the inside hole on the lower. and if your pre-load is set all the way down, back it off all the way to the top. then with your buggy sitting on a spare tire or two (so the wheels aren't touching the ground), crank down the pre-load collar until the spring and the collar are just touching. that's a good starting place. or with your buggy sitting neutral on the table, set the pre-load so that when you push the chassis to the ground, it rebounds to "arms level", or basically so that the suspension arms are level with the ground.
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Old 07-09-2006, 08:17 AM   #2275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
i see in your setup that you say blue springs full out. what does that mean? are you saying that your pre-load is set all the way down? what you need to do is either get softer springs for the rear or use a heavier shock oil in the rear. apparently, your rear shocks are too springy, thus making the rear end hop a lot. by using softer springs, the rear end won't have the springiness to make it hop when it goes over the little jumps, rather it'll soak up the fluctuations in the terrain. or by going with a heavier shock oil in the rear, your shock action will be limited and therefore the shocks can't decend into the "valleys" of the little jumps, rather the rear end will just glide over them. also, when you make your shocks more verticle, it helps to soak up the jumps, so try moving your rear shocks to the outside hole on the upper and the inside hole on the lower. and if your pre-load is set all the way down, back it off all the way to the top. then with your buggy sitting on a spare tire or two (so the wheels aren't touching the ground), crank down the pre-load collar until the spring and the collar are just touching. that's a good starting place. or with your buggy sitting neutral on the table, set the pre-load so that when you push the chassis to the ground, it rebounds to "arms level", or basically so that the suspension arms are level with the ground.
full out meanning no preload, i have a set of red and a set of white springs that came with my buggy when i bought it from panther. but i do not no what they are as far as hard med or soft. with the springs i have for both front and back. what would be a good place to start all around with springs and oils?
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Old 07-09-2006, 08:19 AM   #2276
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Quote:
what would be a good place to start all around with springs and oils?
Blue ofna springs all around with 50 in the front and 40 in the rear.
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Old 07-09-2006, 08:26 AM   #2277
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thanks i will give that setup a try next saterday.
thanks
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Old 07-09-2006, 08:37 AM   #2278
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Macnkitty where in Va. are you located
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Old 07-09-2006, 08:49 AM   #2279
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go to http://www.jamminproducts.com/setups.htm and check out chad bradley's version 2 standard setup. it works very well for me on varying tracks. macnkitty also has hit the nail on the head i believe with there not being enough dampening (too light a shock oil) to slow down the rebound and compression speed of the shock because of the heavy spring you're using (the blue ofna big bore spring is the heaviest one out of the 3, red is medium and yellow is soft). a question for you: are you on the throttle through these bumps you're having trouble with? if so, you may want to go to less anti-squat...that will allow the rear end to absorb bumps better when you're on the throttle. good luck!
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Old 07-09-2006, 09:22 AM   #2280
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Quote:
Macnkitty where in Va. are you located
Richmond.
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