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Old 07-01-2006, 02:01 PM   #2251
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Pics of the track, if the link does not take you there just copy and paste it.



Or you can go to www.rcproracing.com
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Old 07-01-2006, 02:02 PM   #2252
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how much droop are you running Big Trucks?
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Old 07-01-2006, 02:07 PM   #2253
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Droop is backed off in the front and in the rear there is only like 2 to 3 mm of droop in the rear. I also have the larger shock eyelets on the rear shocks
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Old 07-01-2006, 05:37 PM   #2254
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Quote:
I also have the larger shock eyelets on the rear shocks
are you referring to the shock pistons?
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Old 07-01-2006, 07:17 PM   #2255
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I think he is refering to the shock ends. The car comes with long and short ones, and he is running the long ones.
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Old 07-01-2006, 07:58 PM   #2256
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what difference does it make?
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Old 07-01-2006, 08:39 PM   #2257
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I think the biggest thing it gives you is more downtravel
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Old 07-02-2006, 02:05 AM   #2258
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so, full droop front and full droop rear minus 2-3mm...is that right? the reason i ask about droop is because i was bench racing with a few guys and we were trying to decide wether lots of droop or very little droop helps a car get through a rough rutted track. on one hand, with lots of droop you also have a lot of uptravel to absorb bumps. but, with all that uptravel (and droop/downtravel) the wheels can fall into holes and get hooked in the hole it just fell into which can upset the chassis. on the other hand, with less droop, the tires don't have the droop necessary to fall into the hole, rather they skip over the holes (to a point, they might fall in a few cm's or so but not as much as with full droop) which will upset the chassis much less. i haven't had a chance to play with the droop settings yet so i don't have an opinion but i think both are at least theoretically credible arguments. hope that helps a little!
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Old 07-02-2006, 03:48 AM   #2259
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Talking 2006 Off Road Winter Cup

Hi Guys,

We had our annual 2006 Off Road Winter Cup at the Mighty Meakin Park in Queesnland, Australia today and yesterday and what a weekend it was.
I raced both my CR & CRT all weekend and what a rush!
That was the best i have driven for a long time.
I finished up getting third in the 1/8th Truggy and 4th in the Buggy and we has some of the top drivers in Qld here.
I've attached the set-ups i ran on both X1's in pdf format if you guys are interested.
Martin's buggy set up is awesome although I ran a different set up on my Truggy to what he runs.
I ran VZB's in both and i've fitted Ceramic Bearings into both of them and i'm running fuel with total syntetic oils mixture with no castor.
It makes the motor a lot more punchier down low than with castor.
The best tires i have ever used on the buggy for this track would have to be the Panther Chameleons.
You cut the middle lug out of the row of 3 on them and they hook up incredibley well.
I also ran Pro-Line Crime Fighter MT's on Hong Nor Rims on the CRT and they were awesome too.
You can see the race results HERE
Attached Files
File Type: pdf MWBuggyBrisbane.pdf (346.9 KB, 131 views)
File Type: pdf crtsetmgoh.pdf (362.7 KB, 146 views)
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Last edited by RCRacing.com.au; 07-02-2006 at 04:27 AM.
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Old 07-02-2006, 05:18 AM   #2260
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You are correct Adam, doing a little bench racing myself last night, and one thing we also talked about is the rate of speed at which we are hitting the ruts and bumps. With that said we would also have to take a look at springs and oil.

You could look at it this way also, when the car turns into the corner say a right hander, the right rear and the right front shocks are extending. If you do not have enough droop and the car continues to roll it could cause the car to break or loose traction.

I raced touring car on carpet for 5 or so years and my last car was the XRAY T2 and I was using about 1 mm droop in the front and I had 2mm of droop in the rear. More droop in the rear helped with weight transfer and with what I had in the front it allowed some of that weight to stay over the front end. It would not allow the weight to transfer back to the rear of the car, when getting back on the power.


I know you really cant compare Elec Touring car to 1/8 scale offroad, two different animals, but that is what I enjoy about this sport/ hobby meeting new friends and working to figure out how to make the car work better.
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Old 07-02-2006, 11:52 AM   #2261
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One way diff on 1/8 buggy?!?

Hi guys,

I have raced 1/10 electric on road (tarmac and carpet) for several years (Tamiya, HPI and X-Ray) and the X1CR pro (with JP engine 5P) is my first experience in 1/8, nitro and off road.
I'm running it for 4 weekends now and love its performance.
Besides a bent wing mount, I haven't damaged anything yet.
However, there is a question I have (on road heritage):
I was wondering whether it is also possible to run a one way diff at the front of the buggy.
Is it available?
Is it common to run a one way diff in off road cars? Why not?


Thanks a lot in advance for your feedback guys!!

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Old 07-02-2006, 02:17 PM   #2262
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It is very uncommon to run a one-way in 1/8 buggy. You will loose braking abillity, lessen inflight pitch control. Full tuning abillity is there with fluid changes to the 3 diffs. No upside to a one-way.
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Old 07-03-2006, 08:22 AM   #2263
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Hi guys,


I spent all the day on my Jammin FTE + STS engine ... here you have a little video i made ..., im the GREEN BODY WITH YELLOW WING AND YELLOW TIRES ... i dont know about you, but at least for me the best way of training its to talk to a faster guy to go in front and i fight on the back of him trying to pass him or do best lines ... in this case, the best pilot of this track is the track owner and friend of mine (Rodrigo), with a Hot Bodies buggy and RB WS7 X3 engine (as you can see on the video, not much difference with the STS considering he was on the 235F mark and i was on 195-200F mark (i have a big event in a couple of weeks in Mexico so i was trying to take care of my engine) ... :

http://images.domino.org/d/75098-1/20060702.wmv
(right click to save)

As usual, hope you like the video ...
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Old 07-03-2006, 11:13 AM   #2264
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Duneland, thanks a lot for the feedback!!

The inflight control explains a lot to me.
Braking? Never had an issue cause I hardly use them.
It's my on road heritage I guess, always running the cars with a one way diff.
It gave me a lot more cornering speed and turn in.

Another lesson learned.
Great hobby guys!!
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Old 07-03-2006, 12:01 PM   #2265
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Quote:
so, full droop front and full droop rear minus 2-3mm...is that right? the reason i ask about droop is because i was bench racing with a few guys and we were trying to decide wether lots of droop or very little droop helps a car get through a rough rutted track. on one hand, with lots of droop you also have a lot of uptravel to absorb bumps. but, with all that uptravel (and droop/downtravel) the wheels can fall into holes and get hooked in the hole it just fell into which can upset the chassis. on the other hand, with less droop, the tires don't have the droop necessary to fall into the hole, rather they skip over the holes (to a point, they might fall in a few cm's or so but not as much as with full droop) which will upset the chassis much less. i haven't had a chance to play with the droop settings yet so i don't have an opinion but i think both are at least theoretically credible arguments. hope that helps a little!
makes sense to me. might try it out.
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