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Old 06-01-2006, 01:43 PM   #2131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRKWNG
Pato, Watching those videos you're driving skills were very impressive for you first race with an 8th scale buggy. With a little more practice you will be destroying everybody. I look forward to seeing more videos of you races.

What motor do you run? can you post a link so I can see it? It looks very strong and for half the price I might be willing to try one.


Thanks for your words DRKWNG ... the engine its a STS .21 Team Edition (green head), you can buy it easily at www.racernine.com (my engine sponsor), write them an email (Ryan) and tell them you were invited to buy from them by PatoConcha ok ? ...

cya !!
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Old 06-01-2006, 04:57 PM   #2132
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Interesting question, is my filled to the cross shafts 5,7,2 the same as someone elses 5,7,2 but filled up all the way?
yes. think of your diffs like you do your shocks. When your shocks are not filled completely and have air in them, they are easier to compress than a shock completely filled with oil because there is less resistance when air is in the mixture. so when your diffs have air and oil in them, they make bubbles and don't give you the desired "diff action" that you intended it to have. when it's completely full, there isn't any air (or hardly any at all) and the diff wil operate as intended.
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Old 06-01-2006, 07:27 PM   #2133
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Originally Posted by Jared Fournier
This is interesting. Everything I've ever read or been told recomends fill the diffs till the fluid just covers the cross shafts. Interesting question, is my filled to the cross shafts 5,7,2 the same as someone elses 5,7,2 but filled up all the way?
Jared, I was doing the same thing that you were, so I just got done replacing the diff fuild in all 3 diffs. Can't wait to try it out this sunday. I will post my findings on Monday.
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Old 06-01-2006, 07:48 PM   #2134
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After the diff cover is replaced and everything is tightened up, the actual oil level will be right at or slightly above the cross pins, depending on what diffs you're filling. I always fill it all the way up and "bleed" it, just for peace of mind.
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Old 06-01-2006, 07:49 PM   #2135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
yes. think of your diffs like you do your shocks. When your shocks are not filled completely and have air in them, they are easier to compress than a shock completely filled with oil because there is less resistance when air is in the mixture. so when your diffs have air and oil in them, they make bubbles and don't give you the desired "diff action" that you intended it to have. when it's completely full, there isn't any air (or hardly any at all) and the diff wil operate as intended.
Bingo!
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Old 06-01-2006, 08:55 PM   #2136
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Leaking Shocks

I have a question for you guys.
I have a X1-CR Malang Edition which i don't think you guys got in the US but it has the milled out chassis but no big bore shocks.
I am updating it to a Team Edition Specs and have added the Big Bore Shocks and Cradock Anti-Lock Brake Discs.
I've pulled my Big Bore Shocks off my CRT and have a new set to build too but one keeps leaking.
Would you say the seals are shagged as they haven't had much use since new?
I will build my new set anyway but just wondering as it is only one shock that seems to leak oil.
I never had this problem with the previous shocks, they were awesome.
Also the shock kits come with long and short plastic shock ends.
Which are the better ones to use for the buggy?
I was told to use the long ones on the rear and the short ones on the front.
Thanks guys.
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Old 06-01-2006, 08:59 PM   #2137
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dylan, ygpm.
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Old 06-01-2006, 09:05 PM   #2138
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RCRacing.com.au

Have you tried rebuilding the leaky shock? If not give it a try, I will bet it will solve the problem.

"I was told to use the long ones on the rear and the short ones on the front."

You were told correct!
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Old 06-01-2006, 09:20 PM   #2139
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Yes i have rebuilt it but not put new seals in it.
I will get some new seals next week and give it a proper rebuild...
I will just build my new set i think and set them up with the long and short shock ends as you said.
Thanks.
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Old 06-04-2006, 11:02 AM   #2140
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Whats the difference between the PRO competion spec and the Factory team?

Besides Big BORE shocks>

Last edited by yodace; 06-04-2006 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 06-04-2006, 03:21 PM   #2141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace
Whats the difference between the PRO competion spec and the Factory team?

Besides Big BORE shocks>
NEW X1-CR Factory Team Edition Kit # 34959
Jammin Products announces the release of the X1-CR "Factory Team Edition" for the end of 05'. This is an up to date kit of what the factory team drivers use. The kit includes all the goodies within the original X1-CR kit with the addition of Big Bore Shocks, Captured Hinge Pins, Fiber Brake Disks, 5mm CNC Shock Towers, & Billet Aluminum Front Lower "B" Suspension Mount.


4 Big Bore Shocks

Captured Hinge Pin Set

Front 5mm CNC Shock Tower

Rear 5mm CNC Shock Tower

Fiber Brake Disks

Billet Front Lower "B" Block
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Old 06-04-2006, 03:39 PM   #2142
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another great day with the jammin. moved down to 12 tooth to see what happens. pretty good results. nuff said.
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Old 06-04-2006, 07:00 PM   #2143
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What upgrades do u guys suggest getting for the Pro kit? Are the brakes like Factory Team? I cant find any info to read about the Pro kit?
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Old 06-05-2006, 02:34 AM   #2144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace
What upgrades do u guys suggest getting for the Pro kit? Are the brakes like Factory Team? I cant find any info to read about the Pro kit?
Not sure exactly what your US Pro Kit (or US FT) has but

- Big Bore Shocks w- red springs
- Captured Hinge Pins
- Upper and lower Alloy B Blocks
- 2 degree antisquat Plate
- one piece motor mount

hmmm by the time you buy all those bits you may be better off selling your Pro Kit and buying a FT....

also the new alloy offset brake diff mount and rear Alloy uprights look good.
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:47 AM   #2145
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This question would be more appropriate here:

Who offers the best price on the Jammin RTR?
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