RCRacing.com.au

iTrader: (2)

On the batteries i just ordered these:
http://www.vxrracing.com/prodM_rcvr_2000_LiPo.htm
http://www.vxrracing.com/prodM_regulator_lvr-5000.htm
One of the guys at my club is running them and reckons they are awesome.
he can get an hour non stop in his buggy no problems.
I bought them from here:
http://rcplanet.com.my/webshaper/sto...oductItem=3304
http://rcplanet.com.my/webshaper/sto....asp?catID=366

I am looking forward to getting mine and trying it out.
It should be awesome.
Enjoy.

p.s. still need help on the cradock brakes for my X1 CR post #1920.

SpeedBump57

I have been running these in the Jammin for a while now and they last just about as long as the lipo's with out the headaces.


http://bonesmotorsports.com/shopping...roducts_id=241

Laterilus

Speedbump, how do you go about mounting this pack in your Jammin? Reason I ask is because I have a very similar pack in mine, but I built it myself. After careful examination of the pack you've shown, I built mine slightly different. Mine looks more like a 'house' than the normal 'hump' pack... just built with AA size cells instead of the more common 2/3 A cells usually used for 1100 or 1400 packs. I didn't even think of making a 'hump' style with the AA's when I first built it. Anyways, let me try to explain a bit more how my pack is built; Imagine using one of those old 4-cell dry cell holders that come with some of the cheaper radios, then putting one cell on top directly in the middle of the top two cells... follow me? When I used to use the Mugen MBX-5, it fit like a glove since the battery side of the radio tray has that large hump in in the middle of the battery cover. The Jammin obviously doesn't have this feature. So, I layed my 'house' configured pack on its side. Fits fine, but now that extra cell on the top sticks over on the receiver side forcing me to stand my receiver on end. It makes for servo changes or removing the personal transponder very difficult. I have to remove the top portion of the battery/receiver box to even install the battery or the aforementioned servo/pt change. BTW, has anyone found hex head screws that I can use to replace those small phillips head screws that hold down that top part to the radio box?
Anyways, after looking at that 'hump' style configuration, I'm trying to think if that will fit more easily and maybe I should rebuild my pack that way. How did you put it in? Do the three cells under the two other cells lay accross the bottom of the radio box?
Hope all that I've written makes some sense.

macnkitty2002

iTrader: (7)

about mouting the craddock pads: just get a dremel and cut the excess thread from the caliper screws so that they are flush with the diff mount. if you don't want to waste those screws in case you want to go back to the stock brakes (which you most likely won't) get an appropriate length screw and use that.

SavageSYNTH25

macnkitty: The 2600mah pack will last around two hours, and that's powering two digital servos.

Laterilus: All you have to do to mount that pack is to remove the top of the radio box, install the pack, and bolt the top part back down. The pack I posted earlier fits the same way. The Tony's Screws Jammin X1CR screw kit includes screws for the radio box.

Laterilus

Savage, thanks for the answer, but that's already what I do. Quite annoying, but thanks also for mentioning Tony's screws for that replacement screw for the top part. That should definitely speed up the process. Also, could you give a bit more detail on how that 'hump' style AA pack goes into the box? Do you have to stand your receiver on end? I'll go ahead and take a pic when I get home tonight so you can see what is going on with my radio tray setup.

RCRacing.com.au

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Mac,

I found some plastic shock end spacers if you know what i mean which i cut in half length ways and put them on the shaft of the bolt first then put the calipers on.
It looks funny but who cares cause it works great... well it looks like it does anyway (still building my kit).
Tested it by pulling the levers and there is no binding.
I took some photos but couldn't work out how to post them here.
I am also only running single Cradock Discs instead of double steel discs like standard.
My friend runs them on his MBX5 and he reckons they still give him break neck stopping power but without locking up too much.
Cheers

macnkitty2002

iTrader: (7)

yeah, i'm going to test my craddock disks today. i have the single setup, with original craddocks not the anti-locks.

SavageSYNTH25

Yes, you do have to stand the receiver up in the right side of the box. The top cell overlaps into the other compartment, so the receiver needs to be installed vertically lenghtwise. The Novak XXTRA, JR 310, Spektrum, and KO 302 fit perfect. The KO 302 and Novak XXL can be installed flat in the box, if you want.

yamrace

I read alot about the brake binding problems people were having before I ever started putting my FT buggy together. I didn't like the fact that the brake pads were riding on the threads of the screws. I found that the T-Maxx brake pad set (Traxxas Part # 4965) comes with about perfect length bolts and the pads ride on a smooth shoulder. I just added a .030" washer between the bolt head and outside pad, Just a hair long. I know it costs about $7 for 4 bolts because you get brake pads and pistons you will never use but my brakes are free as can be so far. Works great for me.

RCRacing.com.au

iTrader: (2)

The bolts that came with my kit have the same thing but they are too long.
This is how i fixed them.
I put a shock shaft spacer on the bolt before the outside caliper to space the bolt out correctly.
I will see if i can find the right bolts from the bolt shop, until then this will do.
If you look closely you will notice i had to use the extra caliper on the inside to space the disc away from the diff enough so it doesn't bind on the lower guides.
When i get 2 spare calipers i will be able to run quad cradocks with ABS.
How wicked will that be???

SavageSYNTH25

Wow... Sure hope you shimmed that center diff correctly, that screw looks like it bottoms out way too close to the spur. If you keep the single Cradock disc on there, you can always cut the screw down with a Dremel.

Also, you really don't need a quad setup with the Cradocks. The two standard Cradocks feel better than the fiber pads of the FT kits, and much better than the stock quad setup. Just my opinion, I suppose....

Montrealer

Can someone post a picture of the 2600mah hump pack in the receiver box. I still can't figure out how it would fit with my spektrum receiver. The specs say the pack is 2" X 2" X 1". I figure you need to put the pack on it's side but then, how do you fit the receiver ?

Chris Jarosz

im sure this has been posted somewhere but cant find it. im looking into getting the X1 but wanted to know if it had SAE or metric hardware? thanks

Jammin"145

all the hardware is metric on the Jammin's.I just ordered an x1-fte to go with my CRT.I am jonesin' for that thing to get here. I know I like my CRT and hope the same goes true with the buggy.