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Old 04-27-2006, 05:46 AM   #1846
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yamrace,

I have seen a few different standard setups for Chad. It would be helpful if you posted your complete setup. I genreal these things will calm down the rear end.

Go to 2k or 3k in the rear

rear camber link long and in lower hole on tower

More rear toe

Less antisquat

Softer rear springs and lighter oil.

Smaller rear sway bar

Shorter wheel base
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Old 04-27-2006, 08:00 AM   #1847
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First thing, I like a ton of steering, alot more than most people and I wish that the car had more steering. My racing experience has been touring cars and 12th scales on carpet and last fall I started race electric off-road indoors, (B4,T4,BJ4) on a very high bit dirt track. So one thing I do not want to do in take steering away. It seem to me like the rear is trying to pass the front on power. I want the front end to pull the car out of the corner when I pick up the throtle.

Here in the rear setup. X1-CR Factory Team Kit

Red Springs with losi 40 Oil, stock pistons, mounted middle top on tower and inside on arm.

Long wheel base, 3 degrees of toe, 2.5mm sway bar, antisquat ? what is the stock plate, I can't find a listing for it.

camber link is outside on hub and middle inside on tower.

Diff fluid is 3K front, 5K middle and 1K Rear

Thanks Guys
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Old 04-27-2006, 08:47 AM   #1848
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three isn't too thin?
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Old 04-27-2006, 08:55 AM   #1849
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if you want the front end of the car to pull harder and the rear to stay planted try 4/4/3 diff oils. this should put more power to the front of the car giving it that pull and the 3 in the rear will keep it planted threw the corner.
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Old 04-27-2006, 09:52 AM   #1850
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I would put 3 in the rear diff, I would also go a little heavier in the middle like 5 or 6, lighter springs, and go to a lighter sway bar. You can also drill the new camber position in the rear shock tower and move the link to the inside hole on the hub.

Then again, if you just started racing off-road all I would do is change the rear diff fluid and race the car for a couple weeks before I toughed anything else.

Good tires can make all the difference in the world in the traction department.
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Old 04-27-2006, 10:17 AM   #1851
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that's right, tires are 90%, the car does the rest.
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Old 04-27-2006, 06:29 PM   #1852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
we are talking about the steering brace, which is that carbon fiber plate that connects the front gear box to the two steering posts.
the plate that you might be confusing it with is the bellcrank plate, which connects the steering posts to the tie rods, and it has three ackerman holes in it too.
steering brace?? front top plate?? front plate?? front brace??
bellcrank plate?? ackerman plate?? steering rack??

man..i'm getting confuse..is this all their right name..different people give different name for the same part..why not use standard name that the factory have given on manual book..
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Old 04-27-2006, 07:09 PM   #1853
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Quote:
steering brace?? front top plate?? front plate?? front brace??
they are all the same thing. it's this.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLMY0&P=7

Quote:
bellcrank plate?? ackerman plate?? steering rack??
again, all the same thing. it's part #40607 here.

http://www.jamminproducts.com/x1croption.htm

does this clear things up?
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Old 04-28-2006, 07:23 AM   #1854
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Has anyone tried the M3 compound Crimefighers yet? I usually run M2's but one of the local pros said the M3's hook up better on a dry dusty track.

Does anyone have the new ackerman plate? Is there any difference from the old one except looks?
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Old 04-28-2006, 10:31 AM   #1855
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there's no point in getting it because no one ever breaks an ackerman plate.
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Old 04-28-2006, 12:20 PM   #1856
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They don't break the ackerman plate, they bend it. That breaks the flange off the bearing. The new ackerman plate is much stiffer and won't bend. No bearing issues anymore.
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Old 04-28-2006, 06:56 PM   #1857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRKWNG
Has anyone tried the M3 compound Crimefighers yet? I usually run M2's but one of the local pros said the M3's hook up better on a dry dusty track.

Does anyone have the new ackerman plate? Is there any difference from the old one except looks?

The M3's grip very well when the track is packed in, but there really only work good if there is a little moisture in the dirt. Once the track starts drying out bad and "grooving", the M3's roll over pretty bad. If you're running on a track like this with the M3's, I'd suggest running a 2.0-2.5 rear block to loosen the rear end up some. I've found that the M2's are dialed in most places- the M3 is kind of iffy on some tracks.

The new Ackermann plate is CNC'd (I believe) and a bit thicker, removing flex and keeping the ackermann straight. It also may have less bump steer, I don't know. I don't drive my car hard enough to bend the ackermann. One fix I have found is to run Kyosho rubber sealed (flangeless) bearings and a shim with a larger O.D. than the bearing instead of the stock flanged bearings. That way, if the ackermann does flex some, the flange doesn't break. Just a thought.

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Old 04-28-2006, 09:09 PM   #1858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
they are all the same thing. does this clear things up?
i know.. what i mean is use part name as the factory given.. so there's no 3 or 4 name for a same part..
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Old 04-28-2006, 09:46 PM   #1859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yamrace
First thing, I like a ton of steering, alot more than most people and I wish that the car had more steering. My racing experience has been touring cars and 12th scales on carpet and last fall I started race electric off-road indoors, (B4,T4,BJ4) on a very high bit dirt track. So one thing I do not want to do in take steering away. It seem to me like the rear is trying to pass the front on power. I want the front end to pull the car out of the corner when I pick up the throtle.

Here in the rear setup. X1-CR Factory Team Kit

Red Springs with losi 40 Oil, stock pistons, mounted middle top on tower and inside on arm.

Long wheel base, 3 degrees of toe, 2.5mm sway bar, antisquat ? what is the stock plate, I can't find a listing for it.

camber link is outside on hub and middle inside on tower.

Diff fluid is 3K front, 5K middle and 1K Rear

Thanks Guys
Try the 3.5 block (if you have one) and the thin rear swaybar.

Also, running a shorter wheelbase would tighten the rear of the car up. The longer wheelbase along with less toe will free up the rear end, causing it to get squirrely on power or when landing.
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Old 04-29-2006, 10:15 AM   #1860
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hey guys,
i just got my King Heads upper steering brace ( ) and it came with the plate itself and another little peice with 2 large holes and 1 small hole drilled in it. what is this extra peice for? do you put it under the plate at the forward gear box screws to give it more clearance? does anybody else have this part and could give me an explanation?
here's what i'm talking about, it's that little peice.
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=1399
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