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Old 04-25-2006, 10:44 PM   #1831
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Have Fun!!

Diff Oil explanation
I look at it this way:
1st remember and this is all you have to remember is that a diff's job
is to transfer torque to the side of the diff with the least amount of
traction, ie least amount of weight transfered, ie least amount of
traction (This is opposite a torsen by the way).

Center diff fluid:
Say you accelerate, weight transfers towards the rear (your buggy
squats - how much depending on several factors such as rear antisquat
plate, how hard you are on the gas, etc), a center diff with very light
oil will "diff" more towards the front to try to balance the load and
stabilize the buggy. This is great on a slick or maybe a tight track
where you want to feel the front diff pulling your car a little more
and keep you from "spinning out."

Now, say you put in very thick center diff oil in your center diff.
You accelerate, weight transfers towards the rear, a center diff with
very thick oil will "diff" less towards the front but will give you the
most torque at the rear of the buggy, ie more acceleration. This is
great for high bite tracks but on a slick track you may find your rear
end swinging around more.

BUT, straight line acceleration is but one aspect of a center diffs
purpose. Say you are on a track and you approach a woop section. a
car with very light fluid will transfer more torque to the front of the
buggy as soon as the front tires begin to loose contact with the apex
of the woop, hence your rear end feels less power and consequently the
front of your buggy's nose comes down nice and fast ready for the next
woop. your center diff is constantly "diffing" to keep the car
balanced through the woops. Now, if you had very thick oil in the
center, the nose of the buggy would come down a little slower because
it will not diff towards the front so fast. This can cause your buggy
to get out of shape easily because your front tires are not in contact
(think steering) as much with the ground.

Also, center diff oil can even depend on what engine you are running.
if you have an OD MOD, and you go too light on the center oil, you will
find your front tires ballooning to the point of almost flying off the
wheels down the straight away, so you may increase the center oil
weight a bit.

Ok, now for my 2 cents on front diff fluid. This will control torque transfer from the left to front tire and vice versa.
Let's say you have very thick front center fluid and you exit a left
hand 180 on the gas. Your right front tire has the most traction and
hence, if you want the tightest steering, you would want most of the
torque to stay on that outside tire, and hence you would use heavier
front diff fluid. However, if you want more turnin (which happens at
the very beginning of the turn up until the point where your car has
transfered more weight to the outside tire), you could use lighter
front diff fluid.

BUT, the front diff is not just there for turning. Let's say you hit a
bump with only the left front tire of your car. With light front diff
fluid, more torque will transfer to the tire with the least amount of
traction than with thicker oil, ie the right tire starting to come off
the ground due to the chassis lifting, hence the front will stabilize
itself more than a car with thicker front diff fluid.

The rear diff follows the same principle of the front diff.
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Old 04-25-2006, 11:11 PM   #1832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan6682
I am undecided but am leaning towards the T motor,
actually I bought it just so I could keep tabs on you. lol lol lol

I am actually going to try and do some racing this spring and summer I finally found a track about an hour away from here so I thought I would give it a go and see if I can learn to drive one of thses things.
RB Concept makes GREAT products...i run the C5 and its just fun...plenty of power...maybe one day i can find a RODY ROEM for less than an arm/leg/nut sack/and first born...
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Old 04-26-2006, 04:53 AM   #1833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildChild
RB Concept makes GREAT products...i run the C5 and its just fun...plenty of power...maybe one day i can find a RODY ROEM for less than an arm/leg/nut sack/and first born...
there is no doubt that the RB motors are great, but check the link in my sig.
I will be using those motors,
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Old 04-26-2006, 06:32 AM   #1834
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Hi Guys...

Anyone tried the new RB C6 or the Ninja B01 ? How is it compared to the RB WS7 X3 ?

Thinking of getting a rocket for my Jammin...

Thanks in advance...
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Old 04-26-2006, 06:48 AM   #1835
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i run an RB S5 and it is ballistic. i can keep up with JP moded mills and it still runs at 225!
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Old 04-26-2006, 12:09 PM   #1836
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I have the new 21-Plus-5 Novarossi and it's the fastest motor on the track. I've owned two EB modded P5X's and a Hot mod P5X and ran a WS7(friend's car) and they are all fast but don't touch it. There is a article in the new RC Car mag (or maybe XRC Mag) on the motor that it very interesting and worth a read before you make a decision on a motor.
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Old 04-26-2006, 12:54 PM   #1837
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I've heard nothing but good about the RB WS7X3. I've run plenty of Novarossi based motors, and a few OPS motors and I'd say my favorite motors are:

Collari B7
Novarossi 421B
OPS Torque
Novarossi Based P5's
RB WS7
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Old 04-26-2006, 01:54 PM   #1838
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that just the regular WS7 right? because the others are poo poo.
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Old 04-26-2006, 03:02 PM   #1839
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RB Worlds S72 3X...It's the 3rd Worlds motor. Much better than the 2. No more bearing problems ,better fuel milage!
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Old 04-26-2006, 03:18 PM   #1840
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The only thing that was changed from the II to the X3 was the carb. They made the idle screw more accessable. It is no longer behind the pipe. Oh and I guess the lable on the head has changed too.

I am not to sure I would call the X3 Poo Poo.
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Old 04-26-2006, 03:41 PM   #1841
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Quote:
I am not to sure I would call the X3 Poo Poo.
you're right. i have no right to call the X3 poo poo because i have never owned one. it's just that some guys at my track have tried them and have gone back to their older WS7s and are happier with them. the way an engine runs is a reflection of the user, so they probably didn't do something right. now i'm just trying to buy the X3s off of them.

and i can relate to the idle screw thing. i have an S5, which is relatively old (technology). everytime i go to change the idle, my pipe is in the way. not to mention the fact that the idle scews on RBs tend to be really "tight", as in hard to turn. i guess that means there's a good seal.
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Old 04-26-2006, 04:59 PM   #1842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedBump57
The only thing that was changed from the II to the X3 was the carb. They made the idle screw more accessable. It is no longer behind the pipe. Oh and I guess the lable on the head has changed too.

I am not to sure I would call the X3 Poo Poo.

My X3 has ceramic bearings courtesy of TKO, I always had trouble with the stockers leaking. I also had the sleeve modified courtesy or RB Mods. Guess I should have specified the mods, huh?

Even the stock X3 is far from "Poo Poo", and after you swap the bearings, it's an even better motor.
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Old 04-26-2006, 06:27 PM   #1843
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[QUOTE=macnkitty2002] now i'm just trying to buy the X3s off of them.

LOL...now I know why you posted the Poo Poo comment. They really are a good mill. My all time favorite is still the older WS7I. I have had three and two are still going. They are not as fast as the newer ones but I am faster with them.
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Old 04-27-2006, 12:04 AM   #1844
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First of all great info guys.

Now I have a couple of questions. I bought the factory team buggy and raced it for the first time last weekend. I put Chad Bradley's standard setup in except I am runnig 3k, 5k, and 1k for diff fluid front to rear. The rear of the buggy slides around alot on power, how do I calm it down without losing steering? I only happens on power. ( I was thinking about adding toe-in but I know that I would lose steering and 3 Degs. seems like alot to me)

2nd, a couple of you say to get the 1 deg. antisquat plate for the rear, what comes in the pro kit.

3rd, upgrade the top steering plate with the cnc one, are you talking about the actual steering rack plate or that top carbon brace?

Thanks for any help.
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Old 04-27-2006, 05:26 AM   #1845
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#1-if your radio has a dual rate feature, turn it down. sometimes, people forget to use that feature if their car is too "squirelly".
#2-i really don't know. i don't pay attention to those things because i don't know what they do anyways! i could use a little explaining as well.
#3-we are talking about the steering brace, which is that carbon fiber plate that connects the front gear box to the two steering posts. in hard crashes, they have been known to crack or break. i just got mine in from King Headz, it certainly will not break now and it really looks sick. the plate that you might be confusing it with is the bellcrank plate, which connects the steering posts to the tie rods, and it has three ackerman holes in it too. there is no reason to replace that one with the CNC plate, but if you have the cash then go ahead.
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