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Old 04-24-2006, 10:43 AM   #1816
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Old 04-24-2006, 11:04 AM   #1817
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front CNC B-blocks, upper CNC steering brace.
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Old 04-24-2006, 02:04 PM   #1818
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Upper and Lower Aluminum front "B" Blocks (Trust me, you'll never run the A. It makes the car too twitchy)

Cradock Brakes

XTreme Aluminum Rear Hub Carriers

Aluminum 1 degree rear Anti-Squat

One Piece Motor Mount

Big Bore Shocks

TKO Ceramic diff, drivetrain, and clutch bearings




That's about it!
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Old 04-24-2006, 08:52 PM   #1819
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just change the plastic front lower arm holder to 7075 alloy B plate.. thats all.. the others are bullet proof already

anybody try hard shock spring..how performance..??
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Old 04-24-2006, 08:55 PM   #1820
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... and for someone about to receive a Factory Team version ?, any extra upgrade i must do before racing ?,

thanks,
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Old 04-24-2006, 09:00 PM   #1821
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Micors.
How many of these items that were listed above. are on the buggy I am getting from you. I wouldnt know whats been changed and what hasnt as I havent had any experince with this buggy
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Old 04-25-2006, 07:04 AM   #1822
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Quote:
anybody try hard shock spring..how performance..??
i bought the hard spring set for the stock shocks, as in the small ones. they work great, in fact, i put the hard ones on the rear and the blue ones on the front. it works great for the bumps and jumps.
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Old 04-25-2006, 07:06 AM   #1823
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the cradoc brakes, 1 degree anti squat plate, one peice motor mount and, has avid revolution bearings.

i have never broken a rear hub so i dont think he alunimum ones are needed. only thing i would change on the car is the lower and upper b blocks.
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Old 04-25-2006, 02:44 PM   #1824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabushi
... and for someone about to receive a Factory Team version ?, any extra upgrade i must do before racing ?,

thanks,
The only thing I'd recommend for sure is Ceramic bearings. The ones they include seem fairly cheap, I only got one race on the stock ones before they needed to be replaced. Go ahead and drop in some TKO Ceramic bearings.
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Old 04-25-2006, 02:48 PM   #1825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arghh
just change the plastic front lower arm holder to 7075 alloy B plate.. thats all.. the others are bullet proof already

anybody try hard shock spring..how performance..??

For medium sized tracks with a few large jumps, the stock Red (BB) springs just arent right. I've messed around with 30-70 wt. oils, and the car either gets really loose on landing or bottoms out bad on landing.

I finally ended up running the Mugen Grey (Stiff) springs, front and rear. With the right shock oil, the car drops down soft (not bouncy, like the Red springs) but doesn't bottom unless you completely overshoot the jump.

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Old 04-25-2006, 02:56 PM   #1826
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Default Diffs

I need a detailed answer on what going up and down with diff oils on an 1/8 does for the handling. What it does for the front, center, and the rear.

Thanks
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Old 04-25-2006, 03:06 PM   #1827
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Higher viscosity: "Locks" the diff down more, which basically means the diff won't slip as much. If you go into a corner and lift a wheel, the car is more likely to keep accelerating instead of sending all power to the free-spinning wheel. The heavier fluid may create a slight push as well.

Lower viscosity: The diff feels "loose", and the diff slips easily. This would help the car rotate in the corners better because the diffs are "freer" but if a wheel is lifted through a corner, you may loose momentum because all the power is being transferred to the free-spinning wheel.

I would run 5ooo wt. oil in the front at all times. This helps the car rotate well in the corner, but if you lift a wheel into a fast corner it doesn't "unload" very bad.

Run a slightly heavier oil (7ooo wt.) in the center. If the front tires are "balooning" down the straightaway, run a slightly heavier oil in the center.

In the rear, I would run 3ooo wt. oil. This will help the car rotate out of the corner. Sometimes, especially on a loose track, I'll move up to 5ooo or 7ooo wt. oil in the rear. This "locks" up the rear end and helps it slide into the corner (which can be helpful if you want to hit the throttle, slide into the corner, and straighten it out instead of rolling into the corner and powering out (which is where you would want the lighter oil)).


Hope this helps!
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Old 04-25-2006, 03:11 PM   #1828
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thanks for the info, that helps me too!
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Old 04-25-2006, 03:12 PM   #1829
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No problem!

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Old 04-25-2006, 07:59 PM   #1830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SavageSYNTH25
Sometimes, especially on a loose track, I'll move up to 5ooo or 7ooo wt. oil in the rear. This "locks" up the rear end and helps it slide into the corner (which can be helpful if you want to hit the throttle, slide into the corner, and straighten it out instead of rolling into the corner and powering out (which is where you would want the lighter oil)
so ur diff is f5 c7 r5 & f5 c7 r7 correct..the rear diff got the heavier oil.. really headache me about diff tuning.. what about front heaviest like 7f 5c 3r..or 5f 3c 1r..??
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