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Old 12-29-2004, 04:16 AM   #166
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Cool, I already ordered some spares off E bay, a tank, wing mounts and arms.

We(J Concepts) are looking over the stock body tonight to see what we can improve on........Jim
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Old 12-29-2004, 09:29 AM   #167
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Default clutch bell mesh

Aaron what kind of clutch bells are you guys running on the Jammin? I just put in my p-5 and the mesh is extremely loose and the motor is all the way inboard. I haven't run it yet but I don't think it will last without stripping, but it will not get any tighter. And for anyone looking at this car it is extremmly nice. I just put my Mbx5 on backup duty. The parts on this car are as good or better then any car out right now IMO.
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Old 12-29-2004, 11:59 AM   #168
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Default gear mesh

got it figured out. had to loosen everything back up and re-adjust the mounts on the motor.
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Old 12-29-2004, 10:56 PM   #169
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Aaron what servo horns are you using and what is the part #?
I am running airtronics servos thanks for the help
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Old 12-30-2004, 02:18 AM   #170
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I've been running the stock horns, but I really need to get some aluminum ones! haha.
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Old 12-30-2004, 07:14 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally posted by bigl
Aaron what servo horns are you using and what is the part #?
I am running airtronics servos thanks for the help
I'm running Airtronics 94358s all around in my 2 buggies (OFNA X1 Pro included) and use Dynamite Aluminum 1/2 arms marked J/A on the package which fit both JR and Airtronics. Love 'em.
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Old 12-30-2004, 07:18 PM   #172
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Default Slightly off topic - head shims in Hyper 8 port

After breaking my Hyper 8 port in with Odonnell 20% I decided to add a .1mm shim to go to 30% per the instructions. But, there are NO head shims in my motor! The included exploded diagram shows a .1mm and .3mm shim. Is this an error? Should I have shims in my motor that were omitted at the factory or did OFNA update the motor so it doesn't need shims?
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Old 12-30-2004, 08:24 PM   #173
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I biult my X1 about 95 percent of the way...just need a pipe and battery, etc.

Anyway, I noticed a few things that may help some of the less experienced biulders.

1) if you tighten the motor mounts to the motor fully before bolting them to the chassis they end up on a slight angle to the flat chassis. This could spell disaster(engine case trouble), so only fully tighten the engine to mount bolts after the mount to chassis bolts are tightened. Then of course you'll need to recheck and readjust the mesh until it's right and repeat.

2) you can, by mistake, use the larger e clips on the small hinge pins, they give a fake click onto the shaft, but can be popped off super easy if you have done this. One E clip may seem to small, one too big, the too small looking ones fit correctly.

3)When installing my 421B using all the stock parts the tip of the crank was recessed into the outer clutch bell bearing. So, when tightened the bearings go into bind. I needed to purchase a spacer kit that has washers that fit inside the bearings, but have a large enough center hole for the bolt to allow free clutch bell roll.

4) File a small amount of material from the chassis were the arm hits(outside of droop screw) if allowed to travel to a flush set stop, or droop screw. If the chassis isn't filed it will dig into the arm unless you limit the rear droop too much to stop it, which will hurt rough track handling, imo.

X1 Car seems awesome on the bench and definatly comes far better equipped then the 777 I built, which cost $200 more?! To get a 777 up to X1 spec would get you a $900 rolling chassis!OUCH!........................., Jim
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Old 12-30-2004, 10:12 PM   #174
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Glad to hear you like it :-)
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Old 12-31-2004, 12:15 AM   #175
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Default Re: Slightly off topic - head shims in Hyper 8 port

Quote:
Originally posted by slrguy
After breaking my Hyper 8 port in with Odonnell 20% I decided to add a .1mm shim to go to 30% per the instructions. But, there are NO head shims in my motor! The included exploded diagram shows a .1mm and .3mm shim. Is this an error? Should I have shims in my motor that were omitted at the factory or did OFNA update the motor so it doesn't need shims?
On 2nd look, they're there. I just wasn't expecting an aluminum shim. It looked like part of the head.
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Old 12-31-2004, 07:07 AM   #176
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slrguy, ya, that's common mistake, they are so thin and usually end up on the head button, or are aluminum rather then copper or brass.

I've had good luck with alot of engines using the stock head clearance for 30%, but it is safer to use the added shim. If you can read plugs a little and check them often for signs of detonation you can try it both ways to see what your engine likes. I've had ones that prefer it with added clearance, others that don't want the added clearance for best power..................But again, more clearance is safer, Jim
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Old 12-31-2004, 10:31 AM   #177
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Default Wheel base dimension?

Is it best to set the wheel base to min. length for short tracks? All 4 tracks where I race are short, highly technical tracks with lots of jumps, moguls, table tops and 180 turns. I noticed that the setup sheets available at jamminproducts.com for the X1 Pro all show wheel base settings set to max. length whereas the assembly instructions show the wheel base set to the middle position.
Anyone care to comment on the wheel base length and how it affects handling?
My Jammin X1 Pro is set up per the assembly instructions and I've run it just long enough to break in a Hyper 8 port. So far, I'm impressed with it's neutral handling. It isn't twitchy in the turns and seems very stable and consistent. The Hyper 8 port is a real sleeper for the price.
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Old 12-31-2004, 11:44 AM   #178
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Talking My New Buggy

I just want to show a couple pic's of my new Jammin X1.

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Old 12-31-2004, 11:52 AM   #179
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Great paint job buddy. It looks good. But the real question is how does it run?
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Old 12-31-2004, 11:57 AM   #180
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It runs great. Did some fine tuning today.
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