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Old 03-19-2006, 06:46 PM   #1726
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how is going to see your breaks when racing? no one
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:30 AM   #1727
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Hi Jamminers',

Not sure if this has been discussed before... but any idea why the X1CR comes with a 48T center gear whereas other buggies ( The M.... car ) comes with a 46T ?

Are there option parts or other brand gears that i can fit in to try ?

Thanks !
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Old 03-20-2006, 06:45 AM   #1728
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i think they use a larger spur because the diffs are geared differently.
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Old 03-20-2006, 07:21 AM   #1729
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Macnkitty, I had the brake pads you ordered and they worked pretty good. You need to take the stock steel disks and JB Weld them together so you have one thicker steel disk.

I upgraded to the thick Ofna fiber disks and steel pads and they are awesome. They were designed to stop the truggy consistenly and it weighs alot more then the buggy.
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Old 03-20-2006, 07:25 AM   #1730
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Quote:
Macnkitty, I had the brake pads you ordered and they worked pretty good. You need to take the stock steel disks and JB Weld them together so you have one thicker steel disk.
but that still doesn't explain why the pads won't come back off of the disks when the brakes are released. they are getting hung up on the screws.
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Old 03-20-2006, 07:38 AM   #1731
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are they getting hung up on the screws or do you have too much play in the pads and the break lever is sticking closed?
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Old 03-20-2006, 07:59 AM   #1732
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they are getting hung on the screws. i have 1mm of clearance in between the disk and the pad. is that too much?
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:59 AM   #1733
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no. thats how much clearance i have on mine, but i also use the fiber pads.
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Old 03-20-2006, 11:10 AM   #1734
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...and the fiber pads don't hang up either.
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Old 03-20-2006, 11:12 AM   #1735
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nope no hanging up.
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:28 PM   #1736
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the fiber pads are the stock ones, are you sure you're not using the semi-metallic pads?
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:29 PM   #1737
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I had the same problem with mine and just ran it anyway because I could never get them to stop hanging up either. I also had the one side of the brake cam shaved down and springs mounted on the brake lever control arms so when I was on the throttle there was no pressure on the pads and they just wore in and worked good (never great). I also tinkered with shaving the screws that hold the pad on and cut a bic pen spring (or similar spring)to fit because it has alot more tension than the springs that come with the kit. They never worked perfect but were better than stock. The thick Fiber disks and metal pads (scuffed a little) work great and I've never had a problem with them since the day I put them on. I know it sucks wasting hard earned money but these are an upgrade with buying. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:31 PM   #1738
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i still think i'll get the CNR kit, it's just too tempting.
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:11 PM   #1739
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i meant fiber disk. get the cradoc fiber disk you only need one for the front and one for the rear. and the pads need to be blank meaning just metal
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Old 03-21-2006, 12:57 AM   #1740
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Talking best brakes to be found

nitrohouse told me to pick up

racers edge k factory hard ventilation brake dics . they look like crossed drilled rotor found on most jap cars .. or bike's

there crossed drilled and balanced ..

k factory part number rcek8026

for pads ofna part number 36659 semi metalic pads 2 sets needed

killer combo stops on a dime ..

he has 8 gallons on his pads and disc's

but it's pricey at almost 75.00


i found the disc's on ebay seller rcboys

and i got the pads from nitrohouse.com

you will need one set of disc's and 2 sets of the ofna pads


say good bye to brake fade for ever
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