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Old 03-12-2006, 04:32 PM   #1696
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what do you mean by blowing a front shock? just the seals failing? my stock pro shocks work fine! never had any problems with them as long as you keep them clean. also, with the breaks i am running cradock brakes. and they work awsome, dont fade and have great stoping power.

only problem im having with my buggy is my dam motor. i will never buy another RB motor again. i have the eco 3 port and i cant get it to stop leaking for anything! everything is sealed with hitemp rtv and it still leaks a ton of fuel! i contacted rb about it and they told me to take it to my lhs. i know more about motors than my lhs. so that is going to do nothing.
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Old 03-12-2006, 04:50 PM   #1697
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wow man, what has this world come to! my shocks worked great last year, and they worked great today. nothing is wrong with the shocks, so i will keep them considering i already have all of the spare parts for them, what would be the point of buying the big bores if i can't use the spare parts i have. the e-clip that holds on the shock seals on the bottom of the cyclinder came off, spewing oil everywhere. i have a bunch of shock rebuild kits, so i can fix that tonight. i will definately get the brakes though.

i run an RB S5 engine, it's between the Economy 3 port and the 7 port. it has worked flawlessly ever since i got it last October. it holds a tune and it never overheats, no matter how long i run it. my friend had the same problem with his motor today too.
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Old 03-12-2006, 04:59 PM   #1698
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my post wasnt to be mean in any way, i was just wondering what went wrong with the shocks. i had a few local guys try the big bores on the buggy only to switch back to the normal ones.

yah i dont know what the hell is up with my motor all i know is rb coustmer service sucks, and i will never buy another motor from them again. this motor was only run 4 times and has been doing it since i got it. i cant even make a 6 min heat with out having to refuel. the motor will hold a tune fine and i rarley have to tuch the needles unless the temp changes big time, but it spits soo much fuel i have extra dirt everywhere in my car causeing extra weight and wear.
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Old 03-12-2006, 08:25 PM   #1699
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[QUOTE=
only problem im having with my buggy is my dam motor. i will never buy another RB motor again. i have the eco 3 port and i cant get it to stop leaking for anything! everything is sealed with hitemp rtv and it still leaks a ton of fuel! i contacted rb about it and they told me to take it to my lhs. i know more about motors than my lhs. so that is going to do nothing.[/QUOTE]

micrors4guy I would like to help ya but I need to know where it is leaking. You said everything is sealed and it is still leaking. Don't give up just yet and yes RB customer service does suck but their engines are one of the best.
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Old 03-12-2006, 10:01 PM   #1700
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how did u do at LH
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Old 03-13-2006, 05:51 AM   #1701
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Quote:
my post wasnt to be mean in any way, i was just wondering what went wrong with the shocks. i had a few local guys try the big bores on the buggy only to switch back to the normal ones.
i know that, i just worded my response wrong. i will keep the stock shocks since i have enough spare parts to build another entire set! i placed an order last night, making sure to get the fiber brake kit. i sure hope they are better than the stock quad setup.
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Old 03-13-2006, 06:55 AM   #1702
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the fibre brakes are way better. my rear ones are getting soaked by the fuel that spils out my motor and i still have good brakes that last the holw main.

speedbump57- yes the motor has loads of power for a 3 port even with the leak, but it shouldnt be leaking and i think if the i can get the leak to stop it will be that much better. i am thinking the leaking is comeing from the front bearing or the slider in the carb. however, i tried a different carb that didnt leak on another motor and i am still getting the same leaking. also i checked the seals on the front bearing and the look to be fine? i dont know where the fuel is comeing from but where ever it is, it is spilling alot. the reason for me thinking it is coming from the slider is b/c the inside of the boot has a fuel residue on it? so i dont know.
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:36 AM   #1703
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Well from the sounds of it I will bet it is the front bearing if everything else is sealed up. You should be able to get a new front bearing here. http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&id=60 It might be worth the 5 bucks to find out. Contrary to popular belief the front bearing is not air tight. The seal is there to keep the dirt out of your engine. Most will leak a little fuel but not much. If you have fuel all over the chassis then the seal is or has gone bad. Do run a washer behind the collet for the flywheel? If you do this could be your problem. If the washer is overlapping the seal and is rubbing it will get the seal hot and ruin it. I found this out the hard way. I still do it some times but I put the washer on in a way that it is not touching the seal.

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Old 03-13-2006, 07:43 AM   #1704
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nope no washer behind the collet. so that cant be the problem. this thing is leaking way more than what it should. i have fuel all over the motor the rear of the chasiss under the radio box. definatley more leakage than it should be doing. what size bearing will i need?
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:58 AM   #1705
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you might need a bearing puller too.

does the brake kit come with everything i need? the metal brake pads, the fiber disks, the brake springs?
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Old 03-13-2006, 08:14 AM   #1706
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i just ordered the pads when i got mine so i dont know. i had all the other parts i needed already
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Old 03-13-2006, 08:56 AM   #1707
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The bearing should be the one in that link but I would check to make sure. Most .21 are the same. You won't need a bearing puller. Take the engine completely a part with the exception of the front & rear bearings. Heat up the oven to about 350* and then place the engine on a cookie sheet for about 10min. Remove the engine from the oven with gloves on and hold it with the front bearing pointing down and gently tap it with the handle of a screw driver or some thing and the bearing will fall out. If you are quick you can put the new one in at the same time, if not put it back in the oven for about 5min. Make sure you don't dislodge the rear bearing. When finished put the crank in and make sure it slides in and spins freely if it does your done if it doesn’t repeat process.
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Old 03-13-2006, 09:09 AM   #1708
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yah i didnt click the link when i had asked, but i ordered the new bearing and i will see if that helps, if not then i will have to change the seals in the carb. is there a seal somewhere arround the slider that coulg be damaged causeing it to leak?
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Old 03-13-2006, 09:26 AM   #1709
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Nope! The only thing that seals that area is the slide it self and you will see a little fuel there once in a while. If your front bearing is leaking real bad the flywheel will pick it up and sling it all over that boot and everything else and will make it appear that it is leaking real bad.
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Old 03-13-2006, 09:32 AM   #1710
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ok then its definatley the front bearing cause after i run its all over the underneath of the body, rear breaks, then spilling down my chassis and all that
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