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Old 03-02-2006, 10:17 AM   #1651
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Thanks for the responses guys. I appreciate the help. Dan-O, what is the exact size of washer I need for on top the flange bearings? I hope that helps out a bit too... I've pretty much tried all the suggestions here so far while building it. Any time I put together any part of a car that requires movement/rotation, I make sure it is moving fine before continuing on, so my t-bolts are installed correctly as of right now. I've also installed the shocks hoping that was the problem as well.... so far, no dice. I'll figure it out here once I get some free time.

Lastly, any word yet on the stock foams that come with the 'ripper' tires? Are they good or bad?
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Old 03-02-2006, 10:50 AM   #1652
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the stock foams will disentegrate after one race night, so get some proline molded foams or i hear rhe panthers work good
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Old 03-02-2006, 11:50 AM   #1653
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Nick, I was think about the binding issue and I remembered I had the same problem. The turnbuckle that goes from the ackerman plate to the steering block has the little balls that snap into the ends that bind. I had to lube those and make sure they move freely. The only other thing I would say is make sure the ackerman plate bolts aren't too tight and there shouldn't be any issues. I think I used some thick clutch shims over the flange bearing. Can't wait to see it. I Might head over a little eariler Saturday so I can get a look see
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Old 03-02-2006, 08:08 PM   #1654
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Laterilus,

Ok I have thought of something else. There are two screws that go through the top plate right into the back of the front diff. If you grabed the next size bigger screws by mistake and used them they will pertrude through the bulk head and just rub the ackerman/steering plate.

Now I am all out of ideas for sure!
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Old 03-02-2006, 10:04 PM   #1655
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Hi im going to pick up the jammin soon and some guys at the track were saying that it wears fast is this true ?
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Old 03-02-2006, 10:21 PM   #1656
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Matt they had a problem with some soft drive cups when they first released the buggy. The problem has since been taken care of.
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Old 03-02-2006, 10:23 PM   #1657
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ok thanks
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Old 03-03-2006, 04:45 AM   #1658
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has anybody tried the lightened steel outdrives yet? any difference?
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Old 03-03-2006, 07:08 AM   #1659
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I had the lightened diff cups and the lightened center diff posts and they both sucked. The diff cups wore huge ruts into them after one day of racing. The lightened center diff posts broke at the base and the center diff came loose and I bent the front driveshaft. I used them for two or three weeks when it happened.

I'm not dogging the Jammin because I think it's the best buggy out but I had bad luck with this parts.
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:25 AM   #1660
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well, i better not get them. they probably don't help much in the perfomance area either. for such a heavy buggy, it probably won't make a difference. maybe on a touring car, but not a buggy.

has anybody broken a shock tower yet? not that i have, but i was going to get the 5mm towers just for more durability and more shock tuning positions.
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Old 03-07-2006, 07:05 AM   #1661
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I've seen one of the 4mil towers break. There was a wall next to a large jump and the guy clipped the wall flipped his car (at top speed) and landed directly on the tower, SNAP!!!! I think the 5mil would have been ok, maybe a little bent though.
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:14 PM   #1662
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I've seen a couple of the 4mm towers break, but certainly none of the new big ones (they come with the FTE kits). They're tough!

I don't have any experience with the lightened outdrives. Rotating weight always makes a much bigger difference than weight anywhere else on the car.
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:52 PM   #1663
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Tonight I installed the Crazy Nut Racing quad brake set-up for the 9.5 on my CR Pro... after hearing of problems with the stock units I decided upon these due to the very freindly pricetag ($20)and Crazy Nuts reputation....

features I like:

Pads- precision machining, smooth operation, looks trick

Rotors- thicker than stock units, precision machining not stamped steel like the stockers, trick crazy nut engraving.....

I installed them reusing the stock springs on the stock bolts, I only allowed a tick of free play between the pads and rotors (far much less than the stock units require) and yet the new set-up is much smoother.....


This Saturday I plan on breaking in my new engine and testing these out....If anyone is interested I will post my findings.....
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Old 03-08-2006, 04:49 AM   #1664
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i would be interested. i need a new brake system for my X1. i will probably just stick with the Jammin' twin fiber brake system, AKA Brake Special.

also, is it worth it to get the one-piece engine mount? will that keep a precise gear mesh, kind of like the Z-brace helps to do?

and another question, has anybody broken the front or rear gear cases? not the differential case itself, but what the diff's go inside of and what the shock towers mount to. i am stocking up on spares, so i need to know.
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Old 03-08-2006, 06:59 AM   #1665
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I've never broken of seen a diff case break. The one peice engine mount doesn't make it any easier to align the gear mesh. The king heads engine mount is the one were you don't have to reset the mesh.
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