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Old 02-24-2006, 01:44 AM   #1636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
Laying the shock down will make the shock more progressive, while standing them up will make the shock more linear. I have always had the best luck with my shocks on the inside of the arms front and rear, with the shocks mounted in the middle hole on the upper row of the shock tower (again, front and rear).
is it laying down mean inner hole tower + outer hole arm = less down travel
and standing up mean outer hole tower + inner hole arm = more down travel

what about inner hole tower + inner hole arm
or outer hole tower + outer hole arm
do they classified as standing or laydown??

anybody ever try modified making new hole on shock tower that are more inner then the three origional hole to make the shock more laydown??

why the hole position on arm different front and rear. front hole almost on center and rear hole on arm more toward the tyre..

and why the front shock are shorter and rear longer..??
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Old 02-24-2006, 04:07 PM   #1637
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what does everyone think of this buggy. it can abvously hang with the big dawgs but how does it compare in durabality to the others?
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Old 02-24-2006, 05:21 PM   #1638
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Brent - I've clobbered mine more than several times and it holds up like a champ...haha.

arghh - By moving out on the tower and arm you're making the shock stiffer..moving it in on both the arm and the tower will make the shock softer.

Laying the shock down will usually give you less downtravel while standing it up will usually give you more downtravel, you are correct. I was only referring to the action of the shock itself.

I think the rear shocks of most off-road cars are longer because of the need for more suspension travel, as the rear of the car is supporting more weight under the weight transfer of acceleration.
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Old 02-24-2006, 06:27 PM   #1639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrentL
what does everyone think of this buggy. it can abvously hang with the big dawgs but how does it compare in durabality to the others?

Yeah Brent, but Taylor can wheel anything!

Later,
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Old 02-25-2006, 10:02 AM   #1640
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i have crashed and bashed mine, and the only thing i have broken is my B-blocks, which were plastic anyways. they are included in the Team kit now, so that isn't a problem anymore.
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Old 02-27-2006, 09:54 PM   #1641
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UK factory team wins again !
The new Hong Nor X1CR Factory team wins again !

Telford Hottrax hosted the latest round of the midlands winter championships and there was an 80+ turn out including some well known national drivers. Jon Hazlewood (Xray), Steve Haynes (Ho bao), John Howells (GS) Adam Skelding (Hot Bodies) and Jamie Booth (Hong Nor).

1st Jamie Booth (X1CR Pro UK Factory team)
2nd John Howells (GS CL-1)
3rd Jon Hazlewood (Xray)
4th Steve Haynes (Hyper 8)
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Old 03-02-2006, 06:41 AM   #1642
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Hey guys,

Been putting together my factory team edition Jammin kit together over the past couple of days. So far so good. It's been fun and I'm really impressed with the quality of all the materials. The captured hinge pins are a really welcomed addition to the car. Well worth the wait for the factory kit considering it was the same price as the standard. They take away the radio bag though!

I have a few comments and questions though while getting through this build: First of all, the instructions are very poorly written. It's a bunch of sheets printed out on a low quality ink jet printer stapled together. Weak. I could have done that from an online PDF file! Every screw is also not the same length as instructed in the manual. It seems odd to me that they are all 2-4mm longer than what is listed... secondly, I can't match up the screw to the picture in the manual since it does look like it was printed off a crapy inkjet printer and not to scale on some other nicer printing method. Also, there is no addendum sheet for the new parts included, so there were a few spots where I wasn't exactly sure what to do. All in all, minor frustrations, but I'll survive.

I do have a few questions that maybe you kind folks can help me through.

1. My steering assembly is awfully tight. I've loosened all the screws that go through the various bearings on the whole assembly with no luck. I've built 1/8 buggies before and none of them have had this problem. Any ideas? Are your Jammin buggies like this? Maybe I just have to run it tight for awhile and it'll loosen up?

2. One of the problem areas of the instructions was the brake installation. The factory team kit comes with fiber disc brakes and not the standard dual steel ones. No need for brake pads I'm assuming? If so, none came with my kit. Also, there is only one per side. I guess that is all that is needed.

3. I'm trying to build the car while looking at Adam Drake's and Chad Bradley's setups online. I noticed Adam Drake is using 53/53 pistons. What does this mean? What is the size of the stock pistons that come with the big bore shocks? I can't seem to find part numbers for these (once again, the instructions could be a lot better). Also, my shocks came with red springs as opposed to the blue ones I always see in pictures with the newer big bore shocks. Drake has the blue listed in his setup. What springs do you all use?

4. The tires and foams included. Good, bad? The tires look nice. They seem to be a larger version of a crime fighter type of tire, but not as universal as a crime fighter since the lugs are so big. They seem more of a loamy surface tire than anything else. How about the foams? Are they terrible like the old white Proline foams? If they are, I've got a set of Panther green molded foams to use, but if they are fine I'll use 'em.

Thanks to anyone that answer my questions.
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Old 03-02-2006, 07:16 AM   #1643
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When building the Brakes there are no pads with the fiber disks, just take a dremel and scuff up the section that will touch the disk. I had the old kit and switched before CRCRC and the brakes are much more consistent, they don't fade at the end of the race.

I ordered a new screw kit from RC Screws because I didn't like kit screws.

The 53/53 pistons are the set up for the old shocks. When building the old shocks you would take a drill pit and make the hole in the piston a little bigger. With the new big bore shocks the piston holes are bigger and don't need to be changed. The red springs are the medium, yellow are soft. The blue ones you see on all the pictures are for the old shocks.

The tires mine came with are Rippers and were OK. I like CF's or K2's better.
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Old 03-02-2006, 07:26 AM   #1644
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i really think that i need to get the new brake system. my dual set up really fades badly at the end of the mains.
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Old 03-02-2006, 07:53 AM   #1645
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i need to get the new brake system soon. i remember last season that my stock dual brakes faded pretty badly toward the end of the main. pretty cheap upgrade too.
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Old 03-02-2006, 08:13 AM   #1646
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Laterilus

"1. My steering assembly is awfully tight. I've loosened all the screws that go through the various bearings on the whole assembly with no luck. I've built 1/8 buggies before and none of them have had this problem. Any ideas? Are your Jammin buggies like this? Maybe I just have to run it tight for awhile and it'll loosen up?"

Some things to check are the t-bolts on the steering Knuckles if they are too tight they will cause binding. Also have you put the shocks on yet. If they are not on and the arms are at full droop you will notice some binding from the front tie rod ends.

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-02-2006, 08:26 AM   #1647
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Macnkitty, If you make one change the brakes should be it. The fiber brakes are a huge improvement.
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Old 03-02-2006, 08:29 AM   #1648
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Nick, also make sure to put washers above the flange bearings on the ackerman arm. The flange on the bearing is weak and will break.
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Old 03-02-2006, 08:30 AM   #1649
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about the steering assembly, simply loosen the two screws that secure the plate onto the bellcrank arms only slightly. i stress to you only slightly though, or else the screws will back out too much.
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Old 03-02-2006, 09:24 AM   #1650
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Must be the (OFNA) Factory Team version thats a bunch of sheets, my HN X1CR Pro manual is fine, in "book" format on glossy paper and all the screws matched up with the ones in manual (with manual ones printed to correct scale)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Laterilus
First of all, the instructions are very poorly written. It's a bunch of sheets printed out on a low quality ink jet printer stapled together. Weak. I could have done that from an online PDF file! Every screw is also not the same length as instructed in the manual. It seems odd to me that they are all 2-4mm longer than what is listed... secondly, I can't match up the screw to the picture in the manual since it does look like it was printed off a crapy inkjet printer and not to scale on some other nicer printing method.
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