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Old 01-26-2006, 11:30 PM   #1576
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did a little research and found a set for $19.99 from RCmart.com, it's a HK store shipping will run about $7 or so , can have it for $27 shipped, i think i will order one .
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Old 01-27-2006, 02:41 AM   #1577
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anyone on the bumpsteer question i posted?
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Old 01-27-2006, 04:08 AM   #1578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knight
anyone on the bumpsteer question i posted?
every car has dfiffernt design so pararel steering link not necessary zero bumpsteer. you have to chek it your self.
press the front part and see wether toe angle change or not and set from there.

when the car enter the turn, all weight goes forward and press the front part. if you set more toe out when press down, then you have an understeer car
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Old 01-27-2006, 01:31 PM   #1579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knight
anyone on the bumpsteer question i posted?
Bumpsteer is what happens when the the shock/spring compresses on the wheel while turning. As a result of the the shock compressing is causes the camber angle on the wheel to change thus losing camber angle.

So for example, if I was making a right hand turn, the left front would compress and if the bumpsteer was severe I would lose camber angle resulting in less turn in to the right.

Larger racecars have bumpsteer gauges that they stick on the hubs and measure.

-Seann
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Old 01-27-2006, 02:46 PM   #1580
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i thought your camber increased temporarily while your shocks are compressed?
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Old 01-27-2006, 04:37 PM   #1581
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Bump steer is when your suspension compresses the wheels "toe-in"...

Toe-in is how your front tires set in relation to each other when viewed from above

Chamber is how the tires set in relation to each other when viewed from the front or back

Caster is how the kingpin sets in relation to the chassis and can be seen from the side

Kick-up is how the lower suspension arms set in relation to the ground




Absolute zero bumpsteer is and absolute impossability, unless you have a solid front axle with the steering servo mounted to it like teh Tamiya clodbuster, Kyosho mad force, or XTM x-factor, or you have no suspension.... all cars have bumpsteer, some are so little that it has to be seen with guages, while some are so huge that it extremely effects the car....

Chamber changes when the suspension is compressed is called "reactive chamber" and most double wishbone suspension systems have very little or absolutely none depending upon suspension settings......


caster changes during suspension compression are absolutely zero except on cars with single wishbone suspensions that have kick-up built into the suspension mounts.... they have the c-hub built in as a solid part of the suspension arms.... this is only used on some of Tamiyas lowest end models and toy cars..... yet the caster changes are still minimal and the bumpsteer is a much more prominant problem with these models... however Team associated has an on-road suspension for pancars that changes caster as the suspension is compressed this is done by having the kick-up of the upper suspenion arm differ from that of the lower arm.... this could possibly be used on pivot ball suspension cars, but I can't see why anyone would want this for off-road as most on-road drivers won't even use it......
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Old 01-27-2006, 04:48 PM   #1582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
i thought your camber increased temporarily while your shocks are compressed?
yes and no, the chamber actually goes farther negative and the chamber change can actually be adjusted, that is why we have different mounting positions for the chamber rods or upper suspension arms....

Shorter angled down arms provide greater changes, while longer more parallel arms give less change

Longer more parallel arms give less change

The exception---->while (never used) shorter angled up arms provide an increase towards positive chamber...



Unless you ment an increase towards negative.... which is backwards thinking in my mind (but nobody ever said I was always right)
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Old 01-27-2006, 06:49 PM   #1583
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Quote:
Unless you ment an increase towards negative.... which is backwards thinking in my mind (but nobody ever said I was always right)
you're right, i'm thinking backwards. i always forget that negative camber is towards the center of the car. i just say, "increase my camber by .5" to my pitman, and he gets me. sorry for the mixup.

so, from what i understand, when you put the upper front hinge pins to the highest hole, you will experience less ''reactive camber," right? is there any disadvantage of reactive camber anyways? does it affect anything else?
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Old 01-27-2006, 07:07 PM   #1584
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the lower position should allow the car to dive into the corner better...unless you already run too much camber..... but when there is enough traction the higher holes should allow the car to go thru the corners faster because the chassis will stay flatter.....
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Old 01-28-2006, 12:15 AM   #1585
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The upper hole should also provide better forward/braking traction on the front end. Although depending on you suspension set up your conering will suffer. Since the chassis rolls in a corner camber gain is required to keep as much of the tires contact patch on the dirt as possible.
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Old 01-28-2006, 05:27 AM   #1586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMPACTPLAYR
but when there is enough traction the higher holes should allow the car to go thru the corners faster because the chassis will stay flatter.....
Some one told me the oppossite..... well, best way is to check myself on the track .................
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Old 01-29-2006, 12:58 PM   #1587
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Hi Folks!

Since nitro season ended here I haven't really popped in. It's almost time to start wrenching on my cars again and I'm wondering what's new for the Jammin? The only upgrades on my car are the captured hinge pins and one piece motor mount.

What else would you consider an essential upgrade? What about brakes? I'm still running stock.

Thanks
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Old 01-29-2006, 01:32 PM   #1588
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i suggest that you get the fiber disk brakes. they are much smoother than the stockers, and they last longer too. less fade in those long mains. did you get the aluminum b-blocks too? they are essential.
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Old 01-29-2006, 02:12 PM   #1589
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where do I get the fiber disks? I don't have the aluminum B blocks yet, I'll pick those up - thanks!
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Old 01-29-2006, 02:24 PM   #1590
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nitrohouse has the whole brake kit, i think. check this link. i think it's called "brake special."
http://www.nitrohouse.com/options,_x1.htm
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