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Old 06-09-2011, 06:22 PM   #16
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yes that is the same problem I have, they skip threads and throw off the settings. Does RPM make rod ends for the 2.0 b?
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:41 PM   #17
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This may be a little tedious for some but this is what I did after experience rod end issues a couple times. I set everything up with the camber I want, did some marking and measuring. then took an old 4mm hinge pin and cut slugs to the correct length, slide the slug in the rod end, then thread in the rod. That way the rod cant skip any threads. Never had any problems since. it was time consuming but after driving almost an entire 45 min main with one front wheel with "27" degrees neg camber, it was worth the effort!
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
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This may be a little tedious for some but this is what I did after experience rod end issues a couple times. I set everything up with the camber I want, did some marking and measuring. then took an old 4mm hinge pin and cut slugs to the correct length, slide the slug in the rod end, then thread in the rod. That way the rod cant skip any threads. Never had any problems since. it was time consuming but after driving almost an entire 45 min main with one front wheel with "27" degrees neg camber, it was worth the effort!
so your problem was the rod shortening, my problem is the rods are getting longer.
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:18 PM   #19
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ive had two different rollers with the lundsford links. i didnt have as extreme of issues as some of you describe but my camber would change a couple degrees. I went to the lundsford link and my camber is always spot on now.
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:33 PM   #20
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yeah i figured out which 3 links i've stripped, so now i'm just gonna go ahead and replace the ends on the other 3 and see what happens. i may try what was mentioned above, cuz i tend to end up with a TON of negative camber when they strip. if i replace the rest of them and keep stripping them i will most likely just get the lunsford links.
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Old 06-10-2011, 06:52 AM   #21
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so your problem was the rod shortening, my problem is the rods are getting longer.
Hmm, never had it happen the other way but I could see it, if you tumble just right. My fix won't help that...

I just didn't want to spend the money on all new stuff when I felt I could solve the issue with a little sweat and a couple cut-off wheels.
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Old 06-10-2011, 07:14 AM   #22
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Hmm, never had it happen the other way but I could see it, if you tumble just right. My fix won't help that...

I just didn't want to spend the money on all new stuff when I felt I could solve the issue with a little sweat and a couple cut-off wheels.
yes thats when it happens after a good tumble.
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:22 AM   #23
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The problem with suddenly getting a lot of negative camber is because up until mid last summer all of Losi's turnbuckles were pressed together instead of being threaded into place. This weakens the plastic and makes them strip very easily... The fix is cheap and very simple: Replace all of the rod ends and thread them on by hand.

I have ~ 11 Gallons on my 8ight-t 2.0 I had three turnbuckles go within the first four gallons. I replaced all of the rod ends in one go and haven't had a problem since...
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Old 06-11-2011, 07:49 AM   #24
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Get the 1.0 stuff. Alot of gallons on the chassis and haven't touched them.
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Old 06-11-2011, 09:45 AM   #25
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Don't screw around. Get the Lunsford ti turnbuckles. The only way you will bend one on a 1/8 scale losi is if you drive wide open into a brick wall. Then he will give you a new one for free.
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Old 06-11-2011, 06:35 PM   #26
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Get the 1.0 stuff. Alot of gallons on the chassis and haven't touched them.
X100
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Old 06-11-2011, 09:36 PM   #27
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Imo the 5mm's are overkill In weight and durability. 4mm's are More then enough and if you don't want to be replacing the balls due to being aluminum and wearing, Source some steel balls.
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Old 06-12-2011, 12:00 AM   #28
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I'm using this and put a washer under the cup head screw, the turnbuckle never pops out

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Flanged-Ball-2
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