what's the best way to tame my rear end (8 2.0)
#1
what's the best way to tame my rear end (8 2.0)
I feel that my back end is just very loose coming out on turns (i guess that's on-throttle). I think if I could get the rear wheels to spin less on-power my buggy will hold the lines better. My diff oils is at 5-5-3 right now so which one of the following options should i do:
a) thinner center diff - front wheels unload more, reduces oversteer etc...
or
b) thicker rear diff - reduces wheel spin, decreases rear traction while cornering.
I heard that the smart diffs might solve my issue but dont really wanna spend that much money.
thanks
a) thinner center diff - front wheels unload more, reduces oversteer etc...
or
b) thicker rear diff - reduces wheel spin, decreases rear traction while cornering.
I heard that the smart diffs might solve my issue but dont really wanna spend that much money.
thanks
#2
I feel that my back end is just very loose coming out on turns (i guess that's on-throttle). I think if I could get the rear wheels to spin less on-power my buggy will hold the lines better. My diff oils is at 5-5-3 right now so which one of the following options should i do:
a) thinner center diff - front wheels unload more, reduces oversteer etc...
or
b) thicker rear diff - reduces wheel spin, decreases rear traction while cornering.
I heard that the smart diffs might solve my issue but dont really wanna spend that much money.
thanks
a) thinner center diff - front wheels unload more, reduces oversteer etc...
or
b) thicker rear diff - reduces wheel spin, decreases rear traction while cornering.
I heard that the smart diffs might solve my issue but dont really wanna spend that much money.
thanks
#3
Try
7,10,3
3/3 rear or 3-4 rear
Get the V2 Tower if you dont have
.
Sorry thought it was for truggy ignore my posting
7,10,3
3/3 rear or 3-4 rear
Get the V2 Tower if you dont have
.
Sorry thought it was for truggy ignore my posting
Last edited by bigjayjay1; 05-31-2011 at 11:42 AM.
#4
going up in diffs will help,but it depends on "The Track Conditions"
tires will play a Major part.....
but lets Assume the tires and track is not the entire problem?
ok, going up in the center diff will make matters "Worse" for your loss of traction as going up in the center will give more "Steering"
and will "Increase the 4wd Effcet"
and increase the "On-Power Steering"
if the track has allot of traction and is "Smooth" no major ruts and bumps etc. going up in the center will help with the Forward Traction and Launching out of a corner.....
going "Down" in the center will Calm the car down giving a little more traction and less 4wd "Effect"
99.9% will say if your front tires are Balloning go up in the center,you could have 100,000 diff oil in the center and if your "Stabing the throttle in the Middle of the corner those tires will still "Ballon"
so going down will need to be a bit Smoother comming "Out-Of A Corner"
even still many will Argue this............
95% of the "Pro Drivers" usually start with anything from 5k to 10k
and there is a "Reason there Fast"
now this doesnt not mean going one way or another doesnt "Work"
6 billion people you'll get 6 billion Opinions on the best one or it works for "Them" but this does not mean will "Work for you"
the "Starting Set-Up" for the 2.0 is a good starting point.
also check front "Camber" and toe out.....
front diff, going down,and 5k is really as low as you want to go for most tracks? going too low the car will become inconsistant and want to just "Change Directions" for no reason?
5k for most cars is a good "Start"
good balance of "Turn in and Neutral On-Power Steering"
going Up 7K will help the car be more "Stable" under braking...
will "Slightly Loose" some Initial Turn in steering,but can compensate by rolling on the throttle "Later" being slightly higher 7k etc. will give a little more "On-Power Steering" on "Exit"
the rear, now there is a Strange one, i know seems Weird if going up will make a car loose?
sometimes Not always so? think of it like a Full-scale Dragster,this is a bit extreme but you'll get the idea?
dragsters dont turn ...LOL they go straight really good !!!!
but depepnding on your Anti-Squat and rear toe, a slightly higher rear diff will not let the car "Rotate as Easily" doesnt always take the traction "Away" but may give more On-Power "Traction" on "Exit"
depending on track "Conditions"
or could say has more "Cornering traction and more Steering in the Middle of the Turn....when your lower in rear....
for Example sometimes when tracks get blown out? some drives reffer to setting up ther cars "Square" 5k,5k,5k etc.
going "Down" say for most Losi's 2k for the cars Set-up is pretty "Neutral" gives good mid corner traction but may make the car "loose" on-Power on "Exiting"
a really good Primer for "General Set-Up" is the HUDY off road set up guide.....can help for a "General Guidelines"
and one of the Biggest things 99.999% do not look at?
the "Clutch" if the clutch is set for more Tourqe the car will be Loose.
if running the 8ight 2.0 a good Balance is 2 alloy shoes on Green and 2 Carbon on Black
check the Flywheel as well if there are "Diviots" under where the Spring sits may be also time to change the "Flywheel" will make the springs feel "Looser" than they "Are"
a Clutch has a Big effect as well......
as for the rear V2 Tower? there is none made for the Buggy nor any Part listing for one that "I am Currently Aware" of.....
the V2 is for the Truck.......
there is a "Carbon-Fiber one" part # TLR1720
but this is mostly used for "Electric"
the "Current" updated tower is the 2.0 "Buggy" part# LOSA1735
which is the tower used on all the 2.0 series Buggies....
hope some of this can help.....
tires will play a Major part.....
but lets Assume the tires and track is not the entire problem?
ok, going up in the center diff will make matters "Worse" for your loss of traction as going up in the center will give more "Steering"
and will "Increase the 4wd Effcet"
and increase the "On-Power Steering"
if the track has allot of traction and is "Smooth" no major ruts and bumps etc. going up in the center will help with the Forward Traction and Launching out of a corner.....
going "Down" in the center will Calm the car down giving a little more traction and less 4wd "Effect"
99.9% will say if your front tires are Balloning go up in the center,you could have 100,000 diff oil in the center and if your "Stabing the throttle in the Middle of the corner those tires will still "Ballon"
so going down will need to be a bit Smoother comming "Out-Of A Corner"
even still many will Argue this............
95% of the "Pro Drivers" usually start with anything from 5k to 10k
and there is a "Reason there Fast"
now this doesnt not mean going one way or another doesnt "Work"
6 billion people you'll get 6 billion Opinions on the best one or it works for "Them" but this does not mean will "Work for you"
the "Starting Set-Up" for the 2.0 is a good starting point.
also check front "Camber" and toe out.....
front diff, going down,and 5k is really as low as you want to go for most tracks? going too low the car will become inconsistant and want to just "Change Directions" for no reason?
5k for most cars is a good "Start"
good balance of "Turn in and Neutral On-Power Steering"
going Up 7K will help the car be more "Stable" under braking...
will "Slightly Loose" some Initial Turn in steering,but can compensate by rolling on the throttle "Later" being slightly higher 7k etc. will give a little more "On-Power Steering" on "Exit"
the rear, now there is a Strange one, i know seems Weird if going up will make a car loose?
sometimes Not always so? think of it like a Full-scale Dragster,this is a bit extreme but you'll get the idea?
dragsters dont turn ...LOL they go straight really good !!!!
but depepnding on your Anti-Squat and rear toe, a slightly higher rear diff will not let the car "Rotate as Easily" doesnt always take the traction "Away" but may give more On-Power "Traction" on "Exit"
depending on track "Conditions"
or could say has more "Cornering traction and more Steering in the Middle of the Turn....when your lower in rear....
for Example sometimes when tracks get blown out? some drives reffer to setting up ther cars "Square" 5k,5k,5k etc.
going "Down" say for most Losi's 2k for the cars Set-up is pretty "Neutral" gives good mid corner traction but may make the car "loose" on-Power on "Exiting"
a really good Primer for "General Set-Up" is the HUDY off road set up guide.....can help for a "General Guidelines"
and one of the Biggest things 99.999% do not look at?
the "Clutch" if the clutch is set for more Tourqe the car will be Loose.
if running the 8ight 2.0 a good Balance is 2 alloy shoes on Green and 2 Carbon on Black
check the Flywheel as well if there are "Diviots" under where the Spring sits may be also time to change the "Flywheel" will make the springs feel "Looser" than they "Are"
a Clutch has a Big effect as well......
as for the rear V2 Tower? there is none made for the Buggy nor any Part listing for one that "I am Currently Aware" of.....
the V2 is for the Truck.......
there is a "Carbon-Fiber one" part # TLR1720
but this is mostly used for "Electric"
the "Current" updated tower is the 2.0 "Buggy" part# LOSA1735
which is the tower used on all the 2.0 series Buggies....
hope some of this can help.....
#7
I went with a softer silver spring in the rear and the green or silver spring in front. also I changed the shock oils to 40 in front 30 in the rear. worked liked a charm.diff were set to 5,7,4.http://jq-products.com/the-news/43-t.../160-the-guide
Last edited by emancipation007; 05-31-2011 at 09:47 AM.
#8
Thanks guys lots of info here.
Blade, good thing u mentioned the clutch. I used to run the "optimal" carbon/alu setup but the carbon wore out fast so I swapped it wit alu so I got 4 alu shoes now and have forgotten all about it. I'm gonna start wit that n change it back to carbon/alu.
Jus need a verification if i understand this diff thing. So what all the diff oil does is make one side slip more or less right? So during acceleration front axle loose traction n slips first b4 the rear axle since all the weight transfer to the rear. So if I make the center diff thinner it will make the front slip even more transferring more power to the front n less to the rear therefore less spin to the rear. Correct? This mite not actually fix my problem but wanna make sure I understand this whole diff thing.
My setup is the standard that came in w/ the roller manual. I do run the 2 deg toe out and even the 3 deg toe in the rear which seem to drastic to me.
Now back to my breakfast lol thanks again guys
Blade, good thing u mentioned the clutch. I used to run the "optimal" carbon/alu setup but the carbon wore out fast so I swapped it wit alu so I got 4 alu shoes now and have forgotten all about it. I'm gonna start wit that n change it back to carbon/alu.
Jus need a verification if i understand this diff thing. So what all the diff oil does is make one side slip more or less right? So during acceleration front axle loose traction n slips first b4 the rear axle since all the weight transfer to the rear. So if I make the center diff thinner it will make the front slip even more transferring more power to the front n less to the rear therefore less spin to the rear. Correct? This mite not actually fix my problem but wanna make sure I understand this whole diff thing.
My setup is the standard that came in w/ the roller manual. I do run the 2 deg toe out and even the 3 deg toe in the rear which seem to drastic to me.
Now back to my breakfast lol thanks again guys
#9
++++ Start off with 5/7/3 diff weights, 2 degree toe out on front and Drakes setup for start point, should settle the rear down and be dialed.