Setting the throttle
After some help for when I am setting up the throttle position with my radio gear.
When I have the trigger pulled right in (full throttle in other words), if I look down the carb, should I have it set so that you cant see any of the slide carb? Or is it best to have it open only a percentage of the way? I'm assuming that its best to have it open up 100%, but then have next to no experience with nitro motors, so just want to check before I do something silly. :p |
You want the slide of the carb to be flush with the venturi. Any more and your not gaining anything. You can set it a few clicks less if you're looking for run-time.
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Well
I would make it open all the way, then back it off 1-2mm. I usually hit the throttle ll the way, then grab the carb where it attatches to the throttle linkage and pull it to make sure it has some wiggle room for chassis flex and so on...
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Anything more than 70% is just a waste of power and fuel. These engines make all there power at 25-50% throttle. All the power after that will just help it continue to pull down a long straight. If you don't have a 200 foot straight on your track than limit throtle to 60-70% of full open. Your car will do everything you want it to, be plenty fast and your fuel milage will be allot better.
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Originally Posted by thorns
(Post 9186359)
After some help for when I am setting up the throttle position with my radio gear.
When I have the trigger pulled right in (full throttle in other words), if I look down the carb, should I have it set so that you cant see any of the slide carb? Or is it best to have it open only a percentage of the way? I'm assuming that its best to have it open up 100%, but then have next to no experience with nitro motors, so just want to check before I do something silly. :p |
Originally Posted by merdith6
(Post 9186397)
I would make it open all the way, then back it off 1-2mm. I usually hit the throttle ll the way, then grab the carb where it attatches to the throttle linkage and pull it to make sure it has some wiggle room for chassis flex and so on...
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Thanks guys, will set it fully open and will adjust on teh EPA as nessacary.
Next question: When I lift off the gas trigger and the servo returns to the neutral position, the idle gap isn't quite where it should be. After I pull on the brakes it goes to its correct position. Have tried fiddling with different setting but not having much luck chasing the small difference. Can anyone reccomend what I should do to try get it so when I lift off, it goes back to it proper idle position, instead of being 1mm or so more open. Or is the gap nothing to worry about, as a quick dap of the brakes will fix it. |
Originally Posted by thorns
(Post 9189128)
Thanks guys, will set it fully open and will adjust on teh EPA as nessacary.
Next question: When I lift off the gas trigger and the servo returns to the neutral position, the idle gap isn't quite where it should be. After I pull on the brakes it goes to its correct position. Have tried fiddling with different setting but not having much luck chasing the small difference. Can anyone reccomend what I should do to try get it so when I lift off, it goes back to it proper idle position, instead of being 1mm or so more open. Or is the gap nothing to worry about, as a quick dap of the brakes will fix it. get some throttle return spring or some rubber bands. |
Originally Posted by thorns
(Post 9189128)
Thanks guys, will set it fully open and will adjust on teh EPA as nessacary.
Next question: When I lift off the gas trigger and the servo returns to the neutral position, the idle gap isn't quite where it should be. After I pull on the brakes it goes to its correct position. Have tried fiddling with different setting but not having much luck chasing the small difference. Can anyone reccomend what I should do to try get it so when I lift off, it goes back to it proper idle position, instead of being 1mm or so more open. Or is the gap nothing to worry about, as a quick dap of the brakes will fix it. |
Originally Posted by thorns
(Post 9189128)
Thanks guys, will set it fully open and will adjust on teh EPA as nessacary.
Next question: When I lift off the gas trigger and the servo returns to the neutral position, the idle gap isn't quite where it should be. After I pull on the brakes it goes to its correct position. Have tried fiddling with different setting but not having much luck chasing the small difference. Can anyone reccomend what I should do to try get it so when I lift off, it goes back to it proper idle position, instead of being 1mm or so more open. Or is the gap nothing to worry about, as a quick dap of the brakes will fix it. |
Yep
and make sure your brake and throttle linkages are parallel to the chassis and not binding from weird angles, (you may have to turn the throttle ball end to align it better with the linkage)...this can cause just enough friction to keep the spring from working, if it's tight enough, and the throttle stop that is on the outermost part of the throttle linkage has enough play to let the throttle return to neutral...I find this happens sometimes. I also use teflon dry lube to keep the throttle free moving....Make sure ur brakes aren't bound up too tight at neutral. You want everything to move freely.....
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X2....Iv'e never needed any more than 70%.
Originally Posted by Jaz240
(Post 9186443)
Anything more than 70% is just a waste of power and fuel. These engines make all there power at 25-50% throttle. All the power after that will just help it continue to pull down a long straight. If you don't have a 200 foot straight on your track than limit throtle to 60-70% of full open. Your car will do everything you want it to, be plenty fast and your fuel milage will be allot better.
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