8-T 2.0..Which aluminum upgrades are actually worth getting?
 

Like that title says, which aluminum upgrades are actually worth getting for the 8-T 2.0?

Rear gear box inserts, alm servo arm and alm servo saver arm.

Rear hubs... unless u get the plastic ones custom done to use 8X16 outside bearings.

What is needed:

Servo Saver Top, Aluminum: 8B/8T
(LOSA4441)

Servo Arm, Aluminum
(LOSA99030)

Suggested: NOT NECESSARY - Everything else is optional.

I did not leave out the rear bearing inserts. I dont run them. Always had a problem with them. The plastic ones are like 3 bucks and I just change them when needed.

I suggest the spindles in alum as the truck is heavy and they break.
Aluminum Inclined King Pin Spindle/12 Carrier Set
(LOSA1728)

Rear Hub Carriers, Aluminum: 8B, 8T 2.0 - I dont have problems with bearings, balance tires.
(LOSA1732)

Rear Shock Tower, V2: 8T 2.0
(LOSA1741)

Adjustable Front Hinge Pin Brace w/Inserts: 8B/8T
(LOSA1754)

Adjustable Rear Hinge Pin Brace w/Inserts: 8B/8T
(LOSA1755)

Durability wise: Alum. rear gearbox bearing inserts, alum. servo saver arm, alum. steering servo horn. Rear hubs with 8x16 bearings highly recommended.

Performance wise: V2 rear shock tower, 10 degree inclined spindle carriers and inclined spindles, LRC rear adjustable pivots, front adjustable pivots. Split diff mount is pretty trick.

That would be my list.;)

What does the 10 degree inclined parts help with on the truck? I've been toying with the idea of getting a set for both the truck and the buggy. not sure whether to get the 10 or 12. Don't wanna make the wrong decision since they are expensive! I hear you have to take the dremel to the 10's?

It's kinda hard to explain what they do. To me they make the cars easier to drive. They have just as much steering as the stock plastic parts if not more, but they are more controlled. It seems like they make the steering more smooth controlled to me, but you don't sacrifice any steering. Like they allow you to carry more corner speed without getting loose. That's as best as I can explain it.

You have to dremel the spindles to give you the same steering throw as stock. I'm pretty sure that's the case when you're using either the 10 or 12 degree carriers, but I've only used the 10's. The newer spindles come with a bit more throw than the first batch did, but they still aren't as much as stock.

Here's a pic. Stock is 13.5mm. You dremel them to 11mm.;)
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...pindleMOD2.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...spindleMOD.jpg

more corner speed without getting loose. I could use that!

I just installed some 10* spindles on my truck, and they have the same throw as the stock plastic ones. No dremeling needed. The steering EPA stayed completely the same as the stock ones.

That's funny, I have a set from when they first came out that measures 13.5mm and a newer set that I just got that measures 12.5mm. Stock plastics measure a bit over 11mm.

Anyway the measurement should be 11mm if you want max throw.:nod:

Personally If I had to do it all again I would only get the following (In order of importance)

LOSA5420 15mm Shock Caps Top (If you have a RTR)
LOSA4441 Servo Saver Top, Aluminum and an Aluminum Servo Horn
LOSA1728 Aluminum Inclined King Pin Spindle/12 Carrier Set
LOSA1741 Rear Shock Tower, V2
LOSA9155 Quick Change Engine Mount Set
LOSA3538BL Covered 17mm Wheel Nuts, Alum, Black
LOSA5421 15mm Shock Caps Bottom

Maybe the rear hubs but the plastics last a good while and are cheap!

+1 except I like the KHZ toe plates, they are not adjustable but they will not break an insert either.

Don't hit $hit!:p:lol::lol::smile:

We drive in the demolition derby around here and thats just the way it is. The most famous line is and I do quote

"I never know when I hit someone, I only know when someone hits me"

So now I have to run from them with the 6T its not as durable as the losi was.

There's a solution to that...:sneaky:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...gy-Race-Roller

:p:D