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Old 04-23-2011, 10:36 PM   #1
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Default Simple Setup Guide for 2 cars on 1 OFNA Truggy Starter Box

After adding a truggy, I was adamant about running my buggy & truggy off of one starter box. I already have enough to haul to the track. After some head scratching, I came up with this simple and effective method for starting multiple vehicles on one box. I run a MBX6 and a MBX6T, but it should work with other brands as well.

1. Remove the engines from both vehicles. It is easier to set up a starter box without the engine in the car. It allows you to align the starter wheel more accurately.

2. Find a width to space the starter box pegs apart that will work on both your buggy and truggy chassis. For the MBX6 and MBX6T this around 7.5cm for both the front and rear pegs.

3. Mount the rear pegs on the last cutout of the large plate. This will allow the pegs to slide further back for the truggy. The front pegs can be mounted on a standard plate.

4. Attach the plates to the box with the screws and plastic nuts. Tighten the plates so they still are able to slide along the track.

5. Line up the buggy so the starter wheel fits right into the flywheel cutout. Make sure the front and rear pegs are touching the chassis and carefully remove the buggy without moving the plates. Tighten the plates securely to the box.

6. Now you have to install stop screws in the track. Short socket bolts and nuts work well. Tighten the bolt in the track on the inside of each plate.

7. Align the plates up for your truggy in the same manner. This time secure a socket bolt in the track to the outside edge of the front plate. The rear plate is a bit different. Instead of using a socket bolt, use a flat head bolt and Dremel a channel in the bottom of the rear plate. This will allow the outer arm of the plate to slide over the flat head bolt when you move the plate forward for your buggy. (Notice the small channel in the last photo).

8. Now you’re ready to go. Simply loosen the screws a few turns and slide the plate to the stop screws and retighten. You can switch between your buggy and truggy in 10 seconds. Sell one of your starter boxes and buy some hopups.

Some Notes:
- If you choose a common chassis width that is too narrow, the plates won't slide far enough out for your truggy on the starter box. At 7.5cm, I needed to Dremel the track (the plates slide along) a bit longer to get a stop screw in.
- I hope this works for you guys too. Let me know.
- Pictures are worth a thousand words...So here you go:
Attached Thumbnails
Simple Setup Guide for 2 cars on 1 OFNA Truggy Starter Box-starter-box-1.jpg   Simple Setup Guide for 2 cars on 1 OFNA Truggy Starter Box-step-3.jpg   Simple Setup Guide for 2 cars on 1 OFNA Truggy Starter Box-front-plate-detail.jpg   Simple Setup Guide for 2 cars on 1 OFNA Truggy Starter Box-back-plate-detail.jpg  
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:20 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8 View Post
After adding a truggy, I was adamant about running my buggy & truggy off of one starter box. I already have enough to haul to the track. After some head scratching, I came up with this simple and effective method for starting multiple vehicles on one box. I run a MBX6 and a MBX6T, but it should work with other brands as well.

1. Remove the engines from both vehicles. It is easier to set up a starter box without the engine in the car. It allows you to align the starter wheel more accurately.

2. Find a width to space the starter box pegs apart that will work on both your buggy and truggy chassis. For the MBX6 and MBX6T this around 7.5cm for both the front and rear pegs.

3. Mount the rear pegs on the last cutout of the large plate. This will allow the pegs to slide further back for the truggy. The front pegs can be mounted on a standard plate.

4. Attach the plates to the box with the screws and plastic nuts. Tighten the plates so they still are able to slide along the track.

5. Line up the buggy so the starter wheel fits right into the flywheel cutout. Make sure the front and rear pegs are touching the chassis and carefully remove the buggy without moving the plates. Tighten the plates securely to the box.

6. Now you have to install stop screws in the track. Short socket bolts and nuts work well. Tighten the bolt in the track on the inside of each plate.

7. Align the plates up for your truggy in the same manner. This time secure a socket bolt in the track to the outside edge of the front plate. The rear plate is a bit different. Instead of using a socket bolt, use a flat head bolt and Dremel a channel in the bottom of the rear plate. This will allow the outer arm of the plate to slide over the flat head bolt when you move the plate forward for your buggy. (Notice the small channel in the last photo).

8. Now you’re ready to go. Simply loosen the screws a few turns and slide the plate to the stop screws and retighten. You can switch between your buggy and truggy in 10 seconds. Sell one of your starter boxes and buy some hopups.

Some Notes:
- If you choose a common chassis width that is too narrow, the plates won't slide far enough out for your truggy on the starter box. At 7.5cm, I needed to Dremel the track (the plates slide along) a bit longer to get a stop screw in.
- I hope this works for you guys too. Let me know.
- Pictures are worth a thousand words...So here you go:
Thats funny, I actually did this same thing yesterday before seeing this post, did mine slightly different but basically the same and is very easy to do.
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Old 04-24-2011, 04:10 PM   #3
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Cool Hans. What peg width worked for the RC8B & RC8T? To make setups quicker for others, post peg widths for other brands and also if this setup didn't work for some brands.
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Old 04-24-2011, 04:48 PM   #4
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Cool idea. I actually stole the top off a dead box and just set one up for Buggy and one for Truggy. It's 2 screws to remove the entire top plate....so takes me 20 seconds to swap it out.....but I may have to do something like this to make it even quicker ;-)
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Old 04-24-2011, 05:33 PM   #5
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http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/q...casamg/001.jpg


did this 3 years ago with the rc8 and rc8t slide both all the way out for truggy then slide to screws for buggy
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Old 04-24-2011, 06:07 PM   #6
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I purchased a top off of a dead starter box for super cheap, and set one up for truggy, and the other for buggy. Then I sold my buggy and the top with the, so later I had to shell out $30 for a new top! It's the easiest way, 3 screws and you're done. No sliding.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:57 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by N8 View Post
Cool Hans. What peg width worked for the RC8B & RC8T? To make setups quicker for others, post peg widths for other brands and also if this setup didn't work for some brands.
I ended up with a peg width of 75mm in front and 92mm in the rear for the AE's
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:17 AM   #8
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I Cant take Credit for this, So credit goes to where its Due. Mr Gary Fleigal from Alberta Canada showed me this a couple year's back and Ive been extremely happy Since.

Buggy


Truggy


Also When I raced with Gary this Past summer, he was rockin Mugen's and Sure as Shi* He had modified a further 2 holes on the rear Slider to not only start a losi buggy and truggy but also his mugens.
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:43 PM   #9
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Integra, I was inspired to make this after seeing you run two off yours at the motodome. Mine is kind of like the "B Main" version though. A bit less engineered.
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Integra, I was inspired to make this after seeing you run two off yours at the motodome. Mine is kind of like the "B Main" version though. A bit less engineered.


Lol, I like that. The B main

Thx for all the pitting help last round, I can assume we'll do the same this weekend ? Ill make sure to bring my Fuel gun for Maximum Fast pit stops for ya.
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:12 AM   #11
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I'm in FL and won't be back for the race. Next time though.
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:25 AM   #12
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I'm in FL and won't be back for the race. Next time though.


Ah shucks, well have fun in Florida and Ill probably see you at Round 4 at Sean's place.
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