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Old 04-24-2011, 04:59 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by aussies1129 View Post
blue is the go its only med strength so you can remove and be careful using green I used it once as I had nothing else and was force to use a heat gun and a big tool to remove the screw
That's all I ever use is blue, I don't know how he is using green and getting the screws to break loose without stripping them.
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Old 04-25-2011, 12:58 AM   #17
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I don`t soak the screws in it but use a very little drop on each. The blue was better but all the shops were out of stock when I needed it.

I thought only red was permanent, just found out now that green is too

The worst one I`ve ever used was some HPI red thread glue though. Everything got totally stuck.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:24 AM   #18
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Blue and Red - Both come out with a little heat.
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Old 04-25-2011, 03:14 PM   #19
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Well, to answer the original question....I would say it's not absolutely necessary. I'm not trying to start a pissing match, but I only use loctite on my flywheel nut and sometimes on steering links that tend to come loose. So far, after 5+ years of racing, I haven't had a dnf caused by a screw coming out. I will say that if there is any question in your mind, I would suggest using loctite (blue). I should also say that I constantly check the screws on my car between rounds too

Just my 2 cents....
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Old 04-25-2011, 04:38 PM   #20
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I don`t soak the screws in it but use a very little drop on each. The blue was better but all the shops were out of stock when I needed it.

I thought only red was permanent, just found out now that green is too

The worst one I`ve ever used was some HPI red thread glue though. Everything got totally stuck.
There are two types of green one is a Wicking grade and the Other is a Sleeve locker. the permanent stuff is the Sleeve lockers its good for more or less .004" the wicking grade is about the strength of blue, another type you can use is VibraTite, you paint it on and it drys and then springs into action when installed. Make it nice if you plan ahead and coat the new bolts with it and store them.
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:00 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Blue and Red - Both come out with a little heat.
Agreed, red is not really permanent, but stronger than blue.
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:03 PM   #22
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And, if you don't bother to thread lock shock piston screws, they will come out. It's a matter of time. Inevitably, it will be during your best qual!
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:32 PM   #23
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+1 use threadlock on metal to metal.
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:54 PM   #24
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Over time you will realize what needs to be threadlocked and what doesn't. On my mugen, the post that hold the wing mount together, the servo saver shafts the pipe hanger and grub screws holding my cvd's. that is it.

I never put them on my engine mounting screws, that get PLENTY tight enough. And you only need a VERY small amount. I have had the same little losi bottle for 2 years and it is still only half empty. One very small drop and dab the excess on a rag or shake it off.

And NEVER i mean NEVER put it on the end of a crankshaft.
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:01 PM   #25
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What some guys need to remember is we are working on 1/8 scale cars and trucks here. That means 1/8 the amount of thread lock on the screws compared to 1:1 car bolts and nuts. It doesn't take much thread lock to hold screws in there and they are easily popes loose with a driver without stripping. Just a lil drip on the end threads and thread it in and your good.
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