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Old 04-04-2011, 07:38 PM   #16
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see the space between the flywheel and clutch bell? Looks to me he has way to many shims between the clutch nut and clutch bell bearing, when u take the motor out and remove the screw from the front of the clutch bell and the crank shaft is in side the bearing, it will need to be shimmed back to line the bell gears and spur gears put.
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:49 PM   #17
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So the clutch bell should sit further back on the flywheel. I can tear it down tomorrow afternoon. I will update. Thanks for everyone"s help.

Please keep any recommendations coming.
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:56 PM   #18
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So the clutch bell should sit further back on the flywheel. I can tear it down tomorrow afternoon. I will update. Thanks for everyone"s help.

Please keep any recommendations coming.
that still wont fix your problem... but yeah its to far forward, but make sure the CB isnt rubbing your flywheel pins... i recommend getting the right flywheel... but like i said no mater what CB or flywheel or how you shim it, it will not fix the problem... do this to prove it, take off CB and all off and put the screw on and it will still be that close (unless your shiming past the crank which is not possible BC the CB wouldnt spin freely)....
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:17 PM   #19
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Why not shim the clutch bell properly and then use a button head screw or flat head screw.
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:35 PM   #20
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Yep. get rid of that flywheel........ thats the whole problem......bell looks right, I'll bet ya $5 there is about 200 shims under the inner cb bearing and a crank extender/spacer thingy under the screw..... get rid of all of that mess and get the right flywheel and nut....not to be mean but thats pretty bad...aint seen one like that in a while
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Old 04-04-2011, 09:13 PM   #21
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Any recommendations?
that flywheel doe push the clutch very far forward. and a normal sized cap head screw is just too big
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:01 PM   #22
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You need to get the stock mugen flywheel, and only use one thin shim between the nut and inside bearing, and no collet shims between the tapered collet and the engine bearing...

I would also gring a 2.5mm headed screw just a little bit to give it more clearance. The 2mm screws strip out too easily...and Use one of these to keep the bearing inside if one fails itwont go through the tank...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Head-Washers-4

the tank is too close to the screw head on the mugen, I have very light rub marks on my tank, never had any issues though...Mostly because I shim the bearings really perfect, with just a slight tick.....I can go three to four races on a set o clutch bearings. Some guys change them twice in one day....
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:02 AM   #23
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That isnt a stock Mugen flywheel. Looks to me that even if you did reshim it, the flywheel would still need to be replaced with the stock one.The clutchbell is sitting way too far forward.
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:17 AM   #24
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It seems to HB flywheel. HB flywheel is higher that stock flywheel. HB has some offset but if you subtract this offset it still higher that mugen flywheel. Check your collet shims between engine and tapered collet becouse if I got Hb flywheel on my engine that offset is little overlap on crankcase - I don't see this in your pics. And will be better if you change flywheel to mugen and of course screw to 2mm with 'mushroom head'


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MBX6 clutchbell and fuel tank-p1190409.jpg   MBX6 clutchbell and fuel tank-p1190416.jpg  
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:05 AM   #25
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Mugen clutch nut is also a lot shorter than some nuts - this moves the clutchbell back towards the engine and levels the gears up...

Been there done that
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:07 AM   #26
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its obvious that the flywheel is way away from the engine in the first pic. you need to pull the flywheel and see if someone shimmed it if not find a different cone for the flywheel centering, I think ofna makes an assortment
I have never owned a mugen but every one gets an opinion
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:25 AM   #27
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I have a clutchbell similar, mine would sit a little foward due to the brass collet i got with it. get a mugen collet and get rid of the socket head screw and use a button head, that is your main problem. The flywheel and bell look fine.

getting rid of the socket head screw might solve it all together.
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Old 04-05-2011, 01:37 PM   #28
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Mugens use button heads on the clutch for this very reason. Dump the socket and go button.

As an aside, your clutchbell is shimmed horribly.
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:13 PM   #29
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I appreciate everyones input. I will be tearing it down in the next 30 min. Is there any info somewhere about How To Shim these?

Also, I did have a few minutes earlier to swap motor mounts from the xtreme quick mount to an M2C. Both put the clutch bell in the same place.
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:27 PM   #30
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mine is extremely close, it touched tank a few times it looks but not bad. it all comes down to the screw that you use to hold the CB on... i run a OD flywheel (almost the exact same as the one you have) with zero shims and its just fine.

but ill say it again and people need to realize it, it has NOTHING to do with the flywheel or CB or shimming unless you have shimmed it past the end of the crank which isnt possible because the CB wouldnt spin freely....
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