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Old 03-07-2011, 01:11 PM   #31
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I really don't agree with anything here.

A. The Losi 8ight 2.0 has so many adjustments to alter that you can very easily make the vehicle drive correctly without any fishtailing. The engine it comes with is VERY STRONG and also VERY DURABLE, so learning how to setup the vehicle is key. Something you need to learn how to do whether ur a beginner or pro.

B. The Losi engine is VERY DURABLE. It won't last 2 gallons? Says who? People locally here are getting 6-7 gallons and more through it without needing any serious maintenance.

The RC8 RTR is also a nice kit for $400. Again a nice roller, decent engine(not as nice as the Losi's .21)the radio is OK(its an FM unit and is nowhere near as nice as the Spektrum DX3S)as well. If the Losi is out of your budget, this would be a nice second choice. Its nowhere near the same bang for the buck, but its still a good buy.







well i dont have the eight 2.0 but when i drived the 1.0 ive tryied diffrent setups and if wasnt smooth on the throttle the rear is loose.

now yea the 2.0 has a longer rear end and its likely more stable but i hear the same thing from others the rear end is loose if you dont drive smooth .
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:12 PM   #32
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The Losi 2.0 is still loose in the rear, ran both it and the 1.0. However it is very good but you must be at least moderately smooth on throttle.

With that said I'd suggest getting the car that your buddies run and/or guys run at the track which you race most. Also consider the parts avail. from your LHS. To me that is the biggest factor.

Stick with one of the big 5. AE, Losi, HB, Kyosho and Mugen.

Whatever you get stick with it. Don't switch around just because one day your buddies car felt so good.

Lastly get a kit. If you can this is the best route. Most everyone gets hooked and you spend the money anyway. Don't be sucked into the hop-up bug. Lots of rides have tons of after market parts. More often than not plastic stock parts are the way to go. Often drivers think for example Kyosho is so expensive however they try to compare a non-upgraded Losi or AE kit to the most expensive Kyosho team kit. Meaning the SE kit from Kyosho is just fine and comes with upgrades the others don't, it's super competitive, easy to drive and quite frankly the fastest car at the moment.

With all that said can't stress enough to go with a car that your friends at the track run. If you are the only guy running a particular buggy it really stinks because if you need a part in a pinch you're often stuck.












medith : thanks yea im not saying the eights dont drive good but you do have to be a smooth driver on the eight buggys and i wish losi make the drivetrain parts better and not wear so quickly for how much there 1/8 scales are .
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:48 PM   #33
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I bought the Losi RTR 2.0 and really like it.Yes you will have to play with set up,diff oils as well as shock oil weights and clutch ect.But for the money you do get alot,I have since upgraded a good bit but you will have to do this anyway as parts break.And this will be based on the track you run at.
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:26 PM   #34
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well i dont have the eight 2.0 but when i drived the 1.0 ive tryied diffrent setups and if wasnt smooth on the throttle the rear is loose.

now yea the 2.0 has a longer rear end and its likely more stable but i hear the same thing from others the rear end is loose if you dont drive smooth .
So exactly what "setups" did you try. WHy not give us all some specifics?
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:31 PM   #35
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So exactly what "setups" did you try. WHy not give us all some specifics?


if i remember i was using the standard setup and mike thuthe setup it was a while ago.
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:36 PM   #36
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:24 PM   #37
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if i remember i was using the standard setup and mike thuthe setup it was a while ago.
Um..........yeah..........and what is the "standard" setup exactly? LOL! Or the Mike Thuthe setup? LOL! I think this last post of your qualifies as a "fail" post.

OK, so your telling me with adjustments like camber,toe,swaybar link adjustments, F/C/R diff bias and fluid adjustments, TIRE combos, shock preload,fluid, shock angle, multiple upper camber link settings,steering/throttle curve etc etc you couldn't get a dialed car? All this shows is someone who doesn't know how to setup a car, or take the time to learn about the car and the adjustments(what they do specifically) and set it up correctly to your style of driving. LOL! FAIL.

To properly dial a car up takes quite a few practice hours/days/weeks in reality, via one small adjustment at a time.
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:01 PM   #38
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The 8 is a super quick car, but let's be real it isn't always ideal for new drivers. If you come from the old days running elec. or 1/10 gas truck you'll probably be fine. Guys that haven't ever driven may find some difficulty as the rear end is more loose than other kits. Silly to deny that fact really.

As to Kyosho being a fast car. Nats, Worlds, NC. It's a good buggy. Pretty tough to argue otherwise.

Ironically you didn't see Jared winning as he is now when with the OD car? When Kyosho was in a bit of a lull it was the car isn't good, now its the Drivers are good. It's never that the car is solid. There are some Kyosho drivers that left that you don't even hear from now since they've changed rides. Bottom line the MP-9 is very good, moderate to drive and highly competitive. They've won 3 out of the last 5 worlds (HB and Mugen the other two, 0 Losi, 0 AE). Kyosho makes quality cars that perform and are durable. To say otherwise would just be hating on a specific brand.

But again personally I'd be happy to run any of the Big 5 as I mentioned. They all have some great qualities. The Mugen for instance I think is very solid, great all around buggy. HB excellent price for a competitive ride. Losi very adgile, AE solid steering etc...

The best advice though is to run what is in your area as far as parts avail. and what your friends run. It makes life a lot easier.
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:12 PM   #39
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Wow! How many times have we seen some version of this thread.

The only experience I've had with RTR's was when I was given a brand new Jammin X1 CRT for a gift. That was when the Jammins were still top of the heap. Needless to say, I put about $600 into it before the 3rd race with it. Course back then I was inexperienced and killed a engine and a couple servos. But they werent the best to start with.

As for the "I've heard" the Losi RTR is a great value.

Hind-sight being 20-20, I would definitely go with a kit, with a cheaper race engine and decent servos and starter box. You could probably get a kit, engine, servos, radio, and starterbox for around $1100 or less.

To break it down(these are average prices, you could get better deals if you shop around):
$300 kit(D8 new or deal on ebay for a Mugen or Losi)
$250 Good engine(Odonnell, Werks, N21BF, etc....)
$225 for a Beginner radio(3pm futaba or equiv.)
$200 for servos(dont go cheap on servos, they pay for themselves in the long run. Hitec7955 or equiv.)
$100 max for a starterbox.

Whats not included on this list is tires, fuel, tools and personal transponder.

If your home track has loaner transponders, you don't need a personal right away. You can get one for around $80 used, $110 new. And tires and fuel are a "consumable or high wear item" and will run about $80-100 total to start. Tools are the 'X" factor. You can go cheap and get the Home depot stuff, or get RC specific brands and it gets more expensive.

In my opinion, and take it for what you think its worth, buying a kit and building is better in the long run than a RTR. If you have any doubt that you will stick with it, go with the RTR to give it a try, so you don't blow the extra 3-4 bills. But don't let a few broken parts discourage you.
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:20 PM   #40
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[QUOTE=ntrain42;8763052]Um..........yeah..........and what is the "standard" setup exactly? LOL! Or the Mike Thuthe setup? LOL! I think this last post of your qualifies as a "fail" post.

OK, so your telling me with adjustments like camber,toe,swaybar link adjustments, F/C/R diff bias and fluid adjustments, TIRE combos, shock preload,fluid, shock angle, multiple upper camber link settings,steering/throttle curve etc etc you couldn't get a dialed car? All this shows is someone who doesn't know how to setup a car, or take the time to learn about the car and the adjustments(what they do specifically) and set it up correctly to your style of driving. LOL! FAIL.

To properly dial a car up takes quite a few practice hours/days/weeks in reality, via one small adjustment at a time.





um no crap i do adjust things on the supension and tires if i need to
i do know how to set a car up im not a pro at it but im good enough .

the 1/8 losi dont fit everybodys driveing style .
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:26 PM   #41
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Um..........yeah..........and what is the "standard" setup exactly? LOL! Or the Mike Thuthe setup? LOL! I think this last post of your qualifies as a "fail" post.

OK, so your telling me with adjustments like camber,toe,swaybar link adjustments, F/C/R diff bias and fluid adjustments, TIRE combos, shock preload,fluid, shock angle, multiple upper camber link settings,steering/throttle curve etc etc you couldn't get a dialed car? All this shows is someone who doesn't know how to setup a car, or take the time to learn about the car and the adjustments(what they do specifically) and set it up correctly to your style of driving. LOL! FAIL.

To properly dial a car up takes quite a few practice hours/days/weeks in reality, via one small adjustment at a time.




um no crap i do adjust things on the supension and tires if i need to
Obviously you didn't, you only tried the "standard setup" and one that "Mike" uses(not you). So basically you tried 2 setups. As per your own words. And even that is a very vague response, you gave zip for specifics.
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:27 PM   #42
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[QUOTE=ntrain42;8763861]
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Obviously you didn't, you only tried the "standard setup" and one that "Mike" uses(not you). So basically you tried 2 setups. As per your own words.



i meant the stock setup and i used the mike truhe setup and i did try diffrent things to get it better i havnt ran buggy in a year.
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:47 PM   #43
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[QUOTE=tc5 man;8763872]
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i meant the stock setup and i used the mike truhe setup and i did try diffrent things to get it better i havnt ran buggy in a year.
Be aware I'm only using YOUR WORDS in my rebuttal, and your own responses have been extremely limited and vague.

Here at the 2 tracks local to me, Losi is the predominatnly run vehicle of choice in the Buggy/Truggy nitro classes, and the 8ight platform is a very dialed in vehicle. I myself run an SC8 RC8 and RC8T, which are also excellent vehicles, but I have no problems recommending someone to a Losi product which I KNOW are very easy to dial in for a very neutral handling characteristic, and that 8ight 2.0 RTR package is without question the best bang for the buck and is a competition ready kit right out of the box, even with the cheap RTR servos included.

In fact all the major mfg's including Mugen,Xray,O Donnell,AE,Losi etc make a vehicle that can be well dialed in to suit ANY drivers driving preference. Again, it takes time and experimentation to dial in ANY vehicle in question to the drivers preference.

I myself prefer build kits(as you get more intimately familiar with the vehicle when you build it yourself)but its not in everyone's budget to buy everything seperately. Is it preferred? Sure it is, but it is far from necessary to have a vehicle ready to race seriously.
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:00 PM   #44
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I disagree. My son ran the losi RTR with the box stock parts and pieces and won his first novice race with it. This was not his first race. He switched from the Jammin x2 to the Losi. It was not the easiest layout either this was all done at the nitro pit.
I never said the Losi eight 2.0 rtr wasn't a good car and the differences between the rtr and the race roller are the chassis, shock towers, shock caps, shocks, grades of materials and the price $700 for the roller or $800 for the rtr. It's a good deal for a good car but did your son win with the box stock setup or did you change the setup to suit his driving ability and the track your on? Did you break the engine in? How many races does he have on it? Do you think a pro could win with this buggy in box stock form at a pro race?

I was just saying that buying some good parts used and looking for good deals on new stuff would save him alot of money and possibly get a better car or a race roller eight 2.0 for cheaper without the hassle of having to replace stuff later on. I also shopped around for what I wanted and got what I deemed to be a great buggy for my ability. I drove an eight 2.0, rc8b, mbx-6, 811 and a D8 at the track I'm at and liked the overall performance of the D8 and felt it suited me. Maybe he should try out a bunch of them first and then make a decision based on actual time driving them and then buy one.
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:13 AM   #45
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I never said the Losi eight 2.0 rtr wasn't a good car and the differences between the rtr and the race roller are the chassis, shock towers, shock caps, shocks, grades of materials and the price $700 for the roller or $800 for the rtr. It's a good deal for a good car but did your son win with the box stock setup or did you change the setup to suit his driving ability and the track your on? Did you break the engine in? How many races does he have on it? Do you think a pro could win with this buggy in box stock form at a pro race?

I was just saying that buying some good parts used and looking for good deals on new stuff would save him alot of money and possibly get a better car or a race roller eight 2.0 for cheaper without the hassle of having to replace stuff later on. I also shopped around for what I wanted and got what I deemed to be a great buggy for my ability. I drove an eight 2.0, rc8b, mbx-6, 811 and a D8 at the track I'm at and liked the overall performance of the D8 and felt it suited me. Maybe he should try out a bunch of them first and then make a decision based on actual time driving them and then buy one.
To add on top, the chassis dimensions/geometry are the same(just not as thick with less ribbing), same with the shock towers(though the race roller has a few different camber link mounts)etc. So basically its the same car. Buying the stuff seperately won't necessarily save him money because the RTR is basically the same price as the race roller. But with the RTR he gets a $250 radio/rx set with servos, a $175 engine(that surprisingly is very competitive and strong running) and a $50 starter box that actually works great. With the money saved he can as needed upgrade the servos when needed along with picking up optional bling/durability parts that he sees necessary over time.

Regardless the kit is competition ready right out of the box. None of the parts that come on the race roller will make him any faster in reality. A few parts are without question a bit more durable, but that is something he can find out over time and experience gained with the vehicle.
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