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Old 03-01-2011, 04:06 PM   #1
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Default Got my D8T! Now for questions..

UPS man brought the D8T today, I have a few questions but first pics as promised.


Over all condition is very very good. Engine looks spotless. There are a few rust spots on the ends of the tie rods but I can polish it out.

Now for the questions.

1) What is a good starting point for diff oil? I hear most people start off 7K/10K/5K, but I hear others with .28s in their truggys use 10K/20K/5K. So what's best for me?

2) When I press down on the front shocks, I hear a terrible squeak- what's causing this? Is it a bad sign?

3) What weight shock oil is a good starting point? I have white springs on the front and blue on the rear right now.

4) When I drop the truggy from about waist height, it bottoms out HARD. The shocks only seem to absorb landings of 6" or less. Is this normal for these?

5) What are areas I need to check before I use the truggy? I know to tear apart diffs, shocks, and clutch. In addition, grub screws can be a pain so I'll look at them too, but is there anything I'm missing?

6) As dumb as it sounds, how do I get the starter box open to add the rechargeable battery?

I'm reading the D8T thread on this forums, and taking notes, but I'm only on page 65 haha. It'll be while until I complete it.

Thanks for all the help!
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Got my D8T! Now for questions..-101_0656.jpg   Got my D8T! Now for questions..-101_0657.jpg   Got my D8T! Now for questions..-101_0652.jpg   Got my D8T! Now for questions..-101_0653.jpg   Got my D8T! Now for questions..-101_0654.jpg  

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Old 03-01-2011, 04:07 PM   #2
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Here's the last one. The 5 photo limit gets very annoying, lol.
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Last edited by Redrawker; 03-01-2011 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 03-01-2011, 05:30 PM   #3
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Is that rust or dirt in all the screw heads? If it's rust....I would HIGHLY suggest you teardown the Truggy and do a complete bearing replacement on it before you even drive it. Rusty bearings are bad bad bad. Let me see if I can help with some of these....but keep in mind I'm no pro here. Just a club racer with a D8T and a few years under my belt.

1. Good starting point is 7/10/5 for sure and then you can tune it to your liking from there.

2. Probably something binding in the front end. I would tear it down and try to isolate the squeek and go from there. Could just be a washer or a nick in the arm or a rusty hingepin. Tear it down and find out for sure.

3. I run 45wt in the front and 40wt (Losi on both) in the rear for our jump filled wide open track. Works pretty well for me.

4. Depends on the oil in there. If it's running light oil...then yes it would be expected. Read the Hudy setup manual and you can get tuning pretty well from there.

5. Depends on what you are going to do with it. If you are going to race it. Tear it down completely, check for wear items, bent items, cracks etc etc etc. Do a fluid change in the diffs and shocks and check all the screws for tightness and loctite any screw with metal to metal contact.

6. Depends on the box you have, but most have a set screw and a hinged lid. Remove the screw...flip it open. Some have open bottoms....let us know what box you have.

Hope that helped a little....
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:06 PM   #4
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Unfortunately that is rust on the screw heads on the outer extremities of the truck. I am in the process of tearing it down as I type this... but what areas or bearings do I need to check specifically? Surely you don't mean tear the truck down into individual pieces?

Thank you for the basic setup answers. I'll pick up those weights of oil from my LHS.

I think the shock oil must be very light... the previous owner cranked down the preload in what I guess was an attempt to stiffen the suspension. So I'll definitely put some heavier oil in there.

The box I have is an OFNA starter box. I'm still trying to figure out how it works. I think it may have 4 hex head screws to remove before the door hinges open. I'll worry about it shortly.

Thank you for the help!
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:12 PM   #5
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ur gonna get different responses so here's my 2cents......go to hb website and down load jesse robbers setup sheets....hes got his indoor and outdoor setups thats a way better start than the stock book gives ya....
5-7-3 and 50wt frnt and rr is mine.....
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:13 PM   #6
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IMO, and take this with a grain of salt...If you're going to race or even bash in dirt, dust, etc...junk that air filter system. Again, just my opinion, but I wouldn't trust that in racing conditions or heavy dirt, dusty conditions. A lot fo racers use the Losi air filter system, including myself with RCPro foam elements and oil. I know a few have said that Proline makes a good system too, though I have no experience with it.
Look into getting an aluminum servo horn, at the least for steering.
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:17 PM   #7
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just pull it apart to get at the bearings. There will be one on each arm for the wheels, and two for every diff if i'm not mistaken

There shoud be one screw in the middle of the front of the starter box that you unscrew to get inside of the box, well at lest both of my boxes do anyway
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcarter007 View Post
ur gonna get different responses so here's my 2cents......go to hb website and down load jesse robbers setup sheets....hes got his indoor and outdoor setups thats a way better start than the stock book gives ya....
5-7-3 and 50wt frnt and rr is mine.....
Alrighty I'll check that out before I go to the LHS to try to get a general idea of what to buy.

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Originally Posted by NitroOB4You View Post
IMO, and take this with a grain of salt...If you're going to race or even bash in dirt, dust, etc...junk that air filter system. Again, just my opinion, but I wouldn't trust that in racing conditions or heavy dirt, dusty conditions. A lot fo racers use the Losi air filter system, including myself with RCPro foam elements and oil. I know a few have said that Proline makes a good system too, though I have no experience with it.
Look into getting an aluminum servo horn, at the least for steering.
Oh yeah I'm way ahead of you. It looks like the filter off an on-road setup or something. I was planning to get at least the Losi air filter. Definitely going to upgrade that.

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Originally Posted by nitroharry View Post
just pull it apart to get at the bearings. There will be one on each arm for the wheels, and two for every diff if i'm not mistaken

There shoud be one screw in the middle of the front of the starter box that you unscrew to get inside of the box, well at lest both of my boxes do anyway
So check the carrier bearings and diff bearings? That's not too bad. I think I'm also going to pull out the engine to check the clutch and clutch bearing.
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:05 PM   #9
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Here are some pictures.

#1 is the current state of the truggy

#2 is the tire pile

#3 is the battery I found inside of the starter box. (Got it open, thanks guys!). It says it's rechargeable... do I just hook it up to a normal peak charger? It might still be good, who knows...
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Got my D8T! Now for questions..-101_0659.jpg   Got my D8T! Now for questions..-101_0658.jpg   Got my D8T! Now for questions..-101_0661.jpg  
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:34 PM   #10
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For the Gel Cell Battery I use a Battery Tender that is made for a motorcycle battery. It's just a standard trickle charger. Some RC Chargers do have a gel cell mode, but most do not. Any 12V battery charger should be fine.

As far as bearings go, yeah tear it down enough to get to them. 2 on each wheel, 2 on each Diff, steering setup has 4 as well. Avid sells bearings kits for under $30 for the whole Truggy....and other vendors do as well. Bearing swap is pretty easy luckily. While it's apart, check the hinge pins as well and polish them up if they are rusty.

The setup sheets are a GREAT start. Ty Tessman has some on his website as well and Jesse has a bunch too. The out of the box setup isn't too bad either for a starting point.
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:12 PM   #11
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For the Gel Cell Battery I use a Battery Tender that is made for a motorcycle battery. It's just a standard trickle charger. Some RC Chargers do have a gel cell mode, but most do not. Any 12V battery charger should be fine.

As far as bearings go, yeah tear it down enough to get to them. 2 on each wheel, 2 on each Diff, steering setup has 4 as well. Avid sells bearings kits for under $30 for the whole Truggy....and other vendors do as well. Bearing swap is pretty easy luckily. While it's apart, check the hinge pins as well and polish them up if they are rusty.

The setup sheets are a GREAT start. Ty Tessman has some on his website as well and Jesse has a bunch too. The out of the box setup isn't too bad either for a starting point.
I'm into motocross fortunately, I have a charger perfect for it. Thanks!

And alright, I can manage the bearings. I tore down the front diff so far. The bearings at the diff itself are fine. However, I did find that the front CV shaft is almost destroyed... I think I remember reading that's a common problem for these truggys? Anyway, I think it'll be a better idea to go ahead and order and new one instead of waiting for this one to blow when I need it most.
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:48 PM   #12
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Something to consider. Do you have a Local Racer that would sit down with you for a couple hours and go through all the essentials and ensure you understand everything ?
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:01 PM   #13
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http://www.tytessman.com/setups/09_standard_D8T.pdf

This is the base line that I use, I have not found a track it does not work on. All I ever adjust is ride height and change tires. I some times go to outside lower hole on rear tower and seam to get a little more side bite.

I run 50% rebound front and 100% in rear. Other than that, aluminum stearing servo arm, kyosho sway bar listed on sheat, and red springs in rear, and you are set. If you break a rear hub, get aluminum, but no need unless you break one or it wears out.
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:03 PM   #14
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oh yeah, get the losi are filter assembly. Just turn the stock holder so it fits the filter.
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redrawker View Post
I'm into motocross fortunately, I have a charger perfect for it. Thanks!

And alright, I can manage the bearings. I tore down the front diff so far. The bearings at the diff itself are fine. However, I did find that the front CV shaft is almost destroyed... I think I remember reading that's a common problem for these truggys? Anyway, I think it'll be a better idea to go ahead and order and new one instead of waiting for this one to blow when I need it most.
Yeah the CVDs tend to be finicky on occasion. Best course of action when you buy new ones is to just not touch em, pack em in grease, and put a CVD Boot on em. Seems that when you take them apart or mess with them they have issues, but if you just leave em alone they last longer. Just what I've heard from other Hot Bodies drivers....I have yet to have a CVD problem.
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