Redrawker

My Revo was a Qoncepts BB with a Mach 427 in there. It'd go 65 pretty easily. I think this thing is more in the 30's range with the Axial .28 in there. But thats fine, speed runs aren't were it's at, and the Revo was uncontrollable on a track with my setup lol.


I'll try a heat gun on it and let you know.

Thanks! I'll give it a shot with a heat gun also.

Redrawker

I got the carb out finally. I had to remove the collars that the screw holding the carb on thread into. However, I can't get it to snug down no matter what I do... any ideas on that?

MotoGod

iTrader: (118)

Yeah that Axial is probably a tad slow. The Mach 427 was an OK engine I suppose. It wasn't much of a powerhouse either, but it moved out plenty. LRP28R Spec 3 was a sick engine in a Revo though ;-) hehehe

Redrawker

The Mach was all I was comfortable running in the Revo. I had beefed up the drive train, but I didn't want to run the risk of ripping it apart. The Mach was easy to tune, and had a smooth predictable powerband. And it was a heck of a lot stronger than any small block I'd ran So I was happy with it.

Any advise on getting the carb to snug down?

Redrawker

I'm totally at a loss here... waiting on suggestions.

MotoGod

iTrader: (118)

Snap some pics of the carb neck and the hole in the block for it....then some of it together. Worst case you might need a new carb body. They snug down pretty simply....assuming the carb neck isn't warped or anything.

nitroexpress

Sounds like someone tightened down the carb too tight and squeezed the carb neck into a smaller diameter where the pinch bolt rides. Three options. Glue, tape or new carb.

MotoGod

iTrader: (118)

That's what I was thinking as well.....just wanted pics to confirm ;-)

Redrawker

I've never had this issue with another carb.

Here are some pics like you suggested. I apologize for the poor quality.

EDIT: those turned out worse than I realized. My bad.

To sum it up though, basically the carb throat has two marks on it from the screw, although I cannot tell for certain if they are actual indentions. If they are, they are very faint. When I snug it down, it has movement in the form of twisting, but not up or down travel.

I'm thinking I need a new carb body anyway. This one is marked to pieces.

morkendi

iTrader: (1)

This is why I never count on used motors unless I have seen it or personally know the person, even if it comes a rtr package. It is nice to be suprised, but I never expect them to be in good shape. I would really think about getting some kind of 21 or such. You can get several for a decent price. Not saying we cant work this out, bepends on if you want to keep dealing with it.

Maximo

iTrader: (11)

A stock Mach 427 in a Revo is tops a 45 MPH machine...to hit 65 you need something like a modified OS 28.......If you put one of my modified B5's in your truggy it would flat out murder your Revo !!!!!! Axials do not make good truggy engines as they have no top end and really lomit your speed....

Redrawker

The engine itself seems to be ok. I didn't see any rust or wear on the crankshaft, and the piston looks great. I'm guessing the carb body is destroyed, which is only a $16.00 replacement.

I don't really have the $200 to spend on a new engine/exhaust in the first place, so I'm really trying to just get this engine up and running.

Redrawker

The deputy sheriff drove by my subdivision and saw me driving the Revo way back when, and offered to clock it on his dash mounted radar. He said it was making consistent 57mph passes based on that. I feel like that was pretty accurate. At that time, I had a tooth sheared off the first gear in my tranny, so it had a hard time shifting when it shifted at all. Once I replaced it I'd say it was doing 60mph passes.

I have no doubt a truggy is a better platform than the Revo; and the Axial is far from the best mill that even I have used. However, I'm hoping it'll suffice for some club level racing this spring and summer. If I find I need to upgrade, I'll do it then when money isn't as tight.

morkendi

iTrader: (1)

may be pic quality, but looks like some damage to the case where the carb goes in? I would defiantly seal it with some high temp copper gasket sealant. A tube is real cheap at the auto part store.

Redrawker

Yes, there are pry marks on the outside of the case where the PO tried to remove the carb I imagine. They do not reach into the opening where the carb goes though.

I'll grab some copper RTV. Is there anything I can wrap the carb neck with to tighten up the seal as a precaution? I've thought of pipe tape and electrical tape, but I don't know how either would hold up.