R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-03-2011, 08:13 AM   #31
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 44
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroexpress View Post
Use heat to soften any locktight. Use a good hardened wrench. Allen wrenches from a hardware are too soft and will tend to strip the screws.
I thought about using a heat gun. I was too lazy to get it out of the garage

Anyway, where is a good place to buy Allen wrenches in that case?
Redrawker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2011, 08:21 AM   #32
Tech Master
 
nitroexpress's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,919
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redrawker View Post
I thought about using a heat gun. I was too lazy to get it out of the garage

Anyway, where is a good place to buy Allen wrenches in that case?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...rh&filter_mfr=
nitroexpress is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2011, 08:35 AM   #33
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 44
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroexpress View Post
Ouch, those are pricey. oh well, my list is ever growing

Thanks!

Last edited by Redrawker; 03-04-2011 at 04:31 AM.
Redrawker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 08:16 PM   #34
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 44
Default

I'm embarrassed for even mentioning this, but again, I'm very very new with the whole truggy scene and I'm lost in more ways than one.

I'm having a lot of trouble getting the bump start lined up. The flywheel comes down just a few mm short of being flush with the chassis. It seems that no matter what I do, I can't get the wheel on the bump box to line up with the flywheel. I loosened all the pegs on the box and got it pretty close and the wheel only came up to flush with the chassis and did not touch the flywheel.

What's the deal? Am I using too small of a flywheel? Or is there a compatibility issue with the box I'm using? (OFNA box). Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
Redrawker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2011, 08:40 PM   #35
Tech Master
 
nitroexpress's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,919
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redrawker View Post
I'm embarrassed for even mentioning this, but again, I'm very very new with the whole truggy scene and I'm lost in more ways than one.

I'm having a lot of trouble getting the bump start lined up. The flywheel comes down just a few mm short of being flush with the chassis. It seems that no matter what I do, I can't get the wheel on the bump box to line up with the flywheel. I loosened all the pegs on the box and got it pretty close and the wheel only came up to flush with the chassis and did not touch the flywheel.

What's the deal? Am I using too small of a flywheel? Or is there a compatibility issue with the box I'm using? (OFNA box). Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
Some boxes are wider than others. Some wide boxes will not allow the chassis to sit down flush with the starter plate. This width causes the front and/or rear vehicle arms to hit the starter plate and hold the vehicle up. If this is the case, just push the vehicle down. You could try adding a washer or two under the starter motor. Which model OFNA box do you have?
nitroexpress is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2011, 04:33 AM   #36
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 44
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroexpress View Post
Some boxes are wider than others. Some wide boxes will not allow the chassis to sit down flush with the starter plate. This width causes the front and/or rear vehicle arms to hit the starter plate and hold the vehicle up. If this is the case, just push the vehicle down. You could try adding a washer or two under the starter motor. Which model OFNA box do you have?
It's the blue box with the duel motors... I don't know if that's specific enough or not haha.

I don't think anything is interfering with chassis sitting flush at the moment because I have the arms (along with the entire front and rear end) off of the truck. I figured while I had it apart I could try to figure out how the box worked.

Is it possible the starter wheel could be warn so much it isn't tall enough? I was already pressing down on the chassis/box and there was still no contact made. If it just sits there on its own accord, there is a considerable distance between the two surfaces.
Redrawker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2011, 07:15 AM   #37
Tech Elite
 
MotoGod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 3,701
Trader Rating: 112 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to MotoGod Send a message via Yahoo to MotoGod
Default

I've got the same box. Works great with the D8T if it's the Truggy box that I'm thinking of. Best way to align it real quick is to remove your body...set the truck on top and then you can align the wheel to the flywheel pretty easily. Move your pegs around and tighten em down.

Is the wheel on the box not coming out of the box very far though? If so...maybe it needs a new wheel or some other adjustment.
__________________
Scott Pouliot
Current Race Rigs: TLR 8ight 3.0/3.0E/3.0T/22/22-4
==============================================
Thanks to my 2015 Sponsors: LutzRC, RadioPost, AKA Tires, RC Addition Products, Nitro Pro Fuels
MotoGod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2011, 07:18 AM   #38
Tech Master
 
nitroexpress's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,919
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redrawker View Post
It's the blue box with the duel motors... I don't know if that's specific enough or not haha.

I don't think anything is interfering with chassis sitting flush at the moment because I have the arms (along with the entire front and rear end) off of the truck. I figured while I had it apart I could try to figure out how the box worked.

Is it possible the starter wheel could be warn so much it isn't tall enough? I was already pressing down on the chassis/box and there was still no contact made. If it just sits there on its own accord, there is a considerable distance between the two surfaces.
Sounds like the same box I'm using (OFNA Truggy Box). At rest, my wheel is 3mm above the plate. At full depression, it is about 9mm above the plate. This is with no modifications. Wheel could be worn, but it would take a lot.
nitroexpress is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2011, 07:32 AM   #39
Tech Addict
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: sw ohio
Posts: 670
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redrawker View Post
I'm embarrassed for even mentioning this, but again, I'm very very new with the whole truggy scene and I'm lost in more ways than one.

I'm having a lot of trouble getting the bump start lined up. The flywheel comes down just a few mm short of being flush with the chassis. It seems that no matter what I do, I can't get the wheel on the bump box to line up with the flywheel. I loosened all the pegs on the box and got it pretty close and the wheel only came up to flush with the chassis and did not touch the flywheel.

What's the deal? Am I using too small of a flywheel? Or is there a compatibility issue with the box I'm using? (OFNA box). Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
i have found the best method for me is to remove my engine. then i can line up the wheel to the slot in the chassis ensuring i am dead center. takes a little longer the 1st time,but it also allows me to make sure that my wheel is protuding far enough into the chassis for good contact on the flywheel.
__________________
The Hobby Shop,The Ohio RC Factory
T.O.P. Photon CRC XTI, XRAY T4 15 xray xb4 xb8e losi sct 2.0

insanity takes it's toll...please have exact change
bpalmer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2011, 09:27 AM   #40
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 44
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoGod View Post
I've got the same box. Works great with the D8T if it's the Truggy box that I'm thinking of. Best way to align it real quick is to remove your body...set the truck on top and then you can align the wheel to the flywheel pretty easily. Move your pegs around and tighten em down.

Is the wheel on the box not coming out of the box very far though? If so...maybe it needs a new wheel or some other adjustment.
I have the body removed and I keep moving the pegs but I'm not having much luck. The wheel doesn't seem to come up far enough to grab the flywheel. OR the flywheel doesn't come down far enough. I got all of this used, and the starter box was not used on this truggy... the pegs didn't match up. I wonder if this flywheel is even designed for bump box.

Where does your guys flywheels sit? flush with the chassis? Mine is probably 1 or 2mm above the chassis...

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroexpress View Post
Sounds like the same box I'm using (OFNA Truggy Box). At rest, my wheel is 3mm above the plate. At full depression, it is about 9mm above the plate. This is with no modifications. Wheel could be worn, but it would take a lot.
My wheel sits 2mm above the box deck undepressed, then at full depression it sits 8mm above it. When it's fully depressed the wheel rubs somewhere inside the starterbox, is that normal?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bpalmer View Post
i have found the best method for me is to remove my engine. then i can line up the wheel to the slot in the chassis ensuring i am dead center. takes a little longer the 1st time,but it also allows me to make sure that my wheel is protuding far enough into the chassis for good contact on the flywheel.
That's a very good idea. As soon as I get my wrenches in I'll take the engine out. Also it would be a good time to measure the flywheel...
Redrawker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2011, 11:22 AM   #41
Tech Master
 
nitroexpress's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,919
Default

Where does your guys flywheels sit? flush with the chassis? Mine is probably 1 or 2mm above the chassis --- good

My wheel sits 2mm above the box deck undepressed, then at full depression it sits 8mm above it --- good

When it's fully depressed the wheel rubs somewhere inside the starterbox-bad
nitroexpress is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2011, 11:39 AM   #42
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 318
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

yes, take the motor out to line up pegs. Push down after where the motor sits, not on the back of the truggy. You may have to shim up the motor, but I don't have the truggy box to know. When everything finished, make sure you push down on the driver or motor as I have seen chassis that flex enouph that they do not hit the wheel unless you do.
__________________
Hot Bodies D8t- Clockwork JL 21/ AB mods C6, JP-1, Spektrum DX3R, JR servos, AKA tires
Hot Bodies D8- RB WS7 III, GRP 2053 pipe, Spektrum DX3R, JR servos, AKA tires
Losi 8t 1.0 mostly upgraded to 2.0 via ebay- RB C5, dynomite 086, spektrum DX3S, orion servos, AKA tires
Muggified LST- Teal head 427, RD logic pipe, JR servos, panther tires
morkendi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2011, 02:25 PM   #43
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 44
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroexpress View Post
Where does your guys flywheels sit? flush with the chassis? Mine is probably 1 or 2mm above the chassis --- good

My wheel sits 2mm above the box deck undepressed, then at full depression it sits 8mm above it --- good

When it's fully depressed the wheel rubs somewhere inside the starterbox-bad

What should I do about the wheel rubbing issue? Would pictures or a video help you guys?
Redrawker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2011, 04:39 PM   #44
Tech Elite
 
MotoGod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 3,701
Trader Rating: 112 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to MotoGod Send a message via Yahoo to MotoGod
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redrawker View Post
What should I do about the wheel rubbing issue? Would pictures or a video help you guys?
Pics might help, but where is the wheel rubbing? On the starter box chassis....or the Truggy chassis? You could always find the spot where it's rubbing on the starter box and use a dremel tool ;-)

My flywheel is 1-2mm above the chassis as well as most should be. This is perfect for a bump box to hit as long as the bump box wheel is not too wide. Some don't fit inside the chassis recess....others fit perfectly.

If your bump box wheel goes from 2mm above flush to 8mm above flush...that should be perfectly fine. Just a matter of finding the source of the rubbing and modding it to work...or finding another bump box. You can score an OFNA Truggy Bump Box out here for anywhere between $35 and $85 out here on rctech most times. Lower prices don't include batteries....but you can score one with a 4s LIPO for $60-$85 easily.
__________________
Scott Pouliot
Current Race Rigs: TLR 8ight 3.0/3.0E/3.0T/22/22-4
==============================================
Thanks to my 2015 Sponsors: LutzRC, RadioPost, AKA Tires, RC Addition Products, Nitro Pro Fuels
MotoGod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2011, 06:11 PM   #45
Tech Master
 
stallen50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,209
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

I run just the front pegs on my ofna box. Because i run buggy and truggy off the same box. Try it that way
__________________
agama a8 usa edition
Arrow gtr.21, os speed
savox servos
thanks to my 2013 sponsors: vp-pro tires, hobbypro usa, beta tires, arrow racing, team terribles, boca bearings
stallen50 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine Werks Offroad Nitro Engine Forum 9300 03-27-2017 05:54 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:36 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net