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Old 03-01-2011, 10:10 PM   #16
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Nice truggy.. I say just run it. You don't need to tear it all down (but do so if you want to..), replace all the bearings, mod this and mod that, etc.. A new stock air filter would do just fine.. Only thing I notice is that the engine head needs to be rotated(I think..)

Looks good..
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:28 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
Something to consider. Do you have a Local Racer that would sit down with you for a couple hours and go through all the essentials and ensure you understand everything ?
Unfortunately I've been off the racing scene for so long that I don't have those connections anymore... I can try to see if I can find anyone local, but it's very hit and miss. What sort of things is it that I need to be certain to understand?

Quote:
Originally Posted by morkendi View Post
http://www.tytessman.com/setups/09_standard_D8T.pdf

This is the base line that I use, I have not found a track it does not work on. All I ever adjust is ride height and change tires. I some times go to outside lower hole on rear tower and seam to get a little more side bite.

I run 50% rebound front and 100% in rear. Other than that, aluminum stearing servo arm, kyosho sway bar listed on sheat, and red springs in rear, and you are set. If you break a rear hub, get aluminum, but no need unless you break one or it wears out.
I've got the pdf saved. I'll look into getting some of those red springs also.

When you say 50% rebound do you mean the preload collars, or is there a rebound adjustment on these shocks?

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Originally Posted by MotoGod View Post
Yeah the CVDs tend to be finicky on occasion. Best course of action when you buy new ones is to just not touch em, pack em in grease, and put a CVD Boot on em. Seems that when you take them apart or mess with them they have issues, but if you just leave em alone they last longer. Just what I've heard from other Hot Bodies drivers....I have yet to have a CVD problem.
I'll buy a replacement CVD tonight. What boots do you recommend? And is it just the front one that craps out like that, or do I need to watch the others real closely too? (The back output CVD looks great. The dogbone all show some wear that causes a small amount of 'slop,' but it's not to the point of concerning me yet.)

Thanks again
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:42 AM   #18
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNJy7kreK90

Ignore the part about the foams as we do not have the foam compensators, but the rest of the video shows how to do rebound perfect.
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Last edited by morkendi; 03-02-2011 at 05:03 AM.
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:52 AM   #19
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this is what else you need, anything else is just optional.

front bar http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Stabilizer-Bar

rear bar http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Stabilizer-Bar

rear springs http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Orange-74Gf-2

and one of the aluminum servo arms like this, this one is for hitec, just find the one that fits your servo. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...4-Hitec-Spline

got a few more things on mine, but not needed



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Hot Bodies D8t- Clockwork JL 21/ AB mods C6, JP-1, Spektrum DX3R, JR servos, AKA tires
Hot Bodies D8- RB WS7 III, GRP 2053 pipe, Spektrum DX3R, JR servos, AKA tires
Losi 8t 1.0 mostly upgraded to 2.0 via ebay- RB C5, dynomite 086, spektrum DX3S, orion servos, AKA tires
Muggified LST- Teal head 427, RD logic pipe, JR servos, panther tires

Last edited by morkendi; 03-02-2011 at 05:05 AM.
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Old 03-02-2011, 10:21 AM   #20
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Thanks for the info on rebound. I'll check it out once I get home this after noon.

And how much does the engine head need to be rotated? 90*?

I am just now getting to the part in the D8T thread about possibly using HPI Savage dog bones with a OFNA drive cup to fit the 5mm output OR replacing the pinion with a Lightning one that has the standard 8mm output...

Would that be a better option than just replacing the stock CVD that I was going to?
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:19 AM   #21
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I run the djc in the front, lasted all season and is still good on my d8t. In my buggy, I just use greese and boot. Can't link cause I am at work, but it has already been run, run it like it is and replace it when needed.
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Hot Bodies D8- RB WS7 III, GRP 2053 pipe, Spektrum DX3R, JR servos, AKA tires
Losi 8t 1.0 mostly upgraded to 2.0 via ebay- RB C5, dynomite 086, spektrum DX3S, orion servos, AKA tires
Muggified LST- Teal head 427, RD logic pipe, JR servos, panther tires
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:30 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by morkendi View Post
I run the djc in the front, lasted all season and is still good on my d8t. In my buggy, I just use greese and boot. Can't link cause I am at work, but it has already been run, run it like it is and replace it when needed.
Alright, I sure would appreciate links at your greatest convenience.

I literally would not be surprised if the CVD self-destructed after 1 run. The pins are sheered almost in half, and the joint itself is bent out of shape, I'll get pictures later. So if there is a good alternative I'm all for it.
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Old 03-02-2011, 12:00 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redrawker View Post
Unfortunately I've been off the racing scene for so long that I don't have those connections anymore... I can try to see if I can find anyone local, but it's very hit and miss. What sort of things is it that I need to be certain to understand?



I've got the pdf saved. I'll look into getting some of those red springs also.

When you say 50% rebound do you mean the preload collars, or is there a rebound adjustment on these shocks?



I'll buy a replacement CVD tonight. What boots do you recommend? And is it just the front one that craps out like that, or do I need to watch the others real closely too? (The back output CVD looks great. The dogbone all show some wear that causes a small amount of 'slop,' but it's not to the point of concerning me yet.)

Thanks again
These work well:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Hot-Bodies-D8

I use these right now though:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...axx-MBX5-TTR-4


As far as rebound goes, search YouTube for the Adam Drake video about shock setup. He explains it all, but in a nutshell, you add/change shock fluid and when you go to put the cap on....you would push the shock shaft 50% of the way inside the shock body and hold it there....then screw on the shock cap. That would be 50% rebound. 100% rebound is leave the shock shaft at full extension when putting the cap on.
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Old 03-02-2011, 12:06 PM   #24
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part number is HBS67217 you can look it up at amain.
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Hot Bodies D8t- Clockwork JL 21/ AB mods C6, JP-1, Spektrum DX3R, JR servos, AKA tires
Hot Bodies D8- RB WS7 III, GRP 2053 pipe, Spektrum DX3R, JR servos, AKA tires
Losi 8t 1.0 mostly upgraded to 2.0 via ebay- RB C5, dynomite 086, spektrum DX3S, orion servos, AKA tires
Muggified LST- Teal head 427, RD logic pipe, JR servos, panther tires
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Old 03-02-2011, 12:45 PM   #25
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part number is HBS67217 you can look it up at amain.
Found it, I think that was Hot Bodies solution to the stock CVD wearing too quickly that they released awhile back... you said it's holding up well for you? I wonder how it would compare to using a dogbone and drivecup?
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Old 03-02-2011, 01:01 PM   #26
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UPS man brought the D8T today, I have a few questions but first pics as promised.


Over all condition is very very good. Engine looks spotless. There are a few rust spots on the ends of the tie rods but I can polish it out.

Now for the questions.

1) What is a good starting point for diff oil? I hear most people start off 7K/10K/5K, but I hear others with .28s in their truggys use 10K/20K/5K. So what's best for me? 7-10-3 is the best truck setup hands down.

2) When I press down on the front shocks, I hear a terrible squeak- what's causing this? Is it a bad sign?The rust on the screws tells me this things has already gotten wet and muddy, the squeak is in the pivot balls(tear it all back down)

3) What weight shock oil is a good starting point? I have white springs on the front and blue on the rear right now. 35 front and rear or 40 front and rear depending on temperature
4) When I drop the truggy from about waist height, it bottoms out HARD. The shocks only seem to absorb landings of 6" or less. Is this normal for these?dont drop it
5) What are areas I need to check before I use the truggy? I know to tear apart diffs, shocks, and clutch. In addition, grub screws can be a pain so I'll look at them too, but is there anything I'm missing?everything..if its removeable check it.

6) As dumb as it sounds, how do I get the starter box open to add the rechargeable battery? ......................

I'm reading the D8T thread on this forums, and taking notes, but I'm only on page 65 haha. It'll be while until I complete it.

Thanks for all the help!
There ya go.
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Old 03-02-2011, 01:51 PM   #27
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Found it, I think that was Hot Bodies solution to the stock CVD wearing too quickly that they released awhile back... you said it's holding up well for you? I wonder how it would compare to using a dogbone and drivecup?
I have about 5 or 6 gallons on mine. Holding up just fine. I don't see any real wear yet.
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Hot Bodies D8t- Clockwork JL 21/ AB mods C6, JP-1, Spektrum DX3R, JR servos, AKA tires
Hot Bodies D8- RB WS7 III, GRP 2053 pipe, Spektrum DX3R, JR servos, AKA tires
Losi 8t 1.0 mostly upgraded to 2.0 via ebay- RB C5, dynomite 086, spektrum DX3S, orion servos, AKA tires
Muggified LST- Teal head 427, RD logic pipe, JR servos, panther tires
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:03 PM   #28
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Thanks for all the help or constructive criticism.

I've got the shock oil, Diff oil, springs, new front diff, and air filter all on my list for the LHS. Tonight I'm going to try to finish up inspecting the bearings to see if I need to order those also. I'll let you guys know what I find.
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:35 AM   #29
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Does anyone have any advice on getting the grub screw out or loosened so you can remove the pin holding the 17mm wheel hex on? I was able to loosen the right one, but the left one is so tight I twisted the ends off two allen wrenches trying to remove it. (They were pretty nice ones. Got them from Lowes.)
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Old 03-03-2011, 07:35 AM   #30
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Does anyone have any advice on getting the grub screw out or loosened so you can remove the pin holding the 17mm wheel hex on? I was able to loosen the right one, but the left one is so tight I twisted the ends off two allen wrenches trying to remove it. (They were pretty nice ones. Got them from Lowes.)
Use heat to soften any locktight. Use a good hardened wrench. Allen wrenches from a hardware are too soft and will tend to strip the screws.
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