Looking for a new buggy
#32
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
TX - On the '10 spec I really only had to replace small things like CVD pins and bearings. My recommendation is to stock up on CVD pins and bearings and wheel it. The nice thing about Xray is nothing ever breaks...it is more of a "do I want to replace that" kinda thing. After 10 months of running this buggy hard just about every weekend, the only thing that is showing wear and will need replaced soon are the pins in the driveshafts and the outdrives themselves. The plastic pieces have started to get a little sloppy, but it is still very tight (if that makes since). I think you will really like this car, especially since RC America is based in Texas and you will see quite a few time drivers down your way. Let me know if you have any more questions, PM me whenever.
Thanks for the input.
#34
Tech Rookie
7000 diff fluid in the front, 5000 in center diff, and 2000 in rear, make sure your ride hieght is at 27mm in the rear and 25 in the front. try that out it may help!
#35
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (66)
I run a losi too, matter of fact between my son and I we have 9 rc cars that we race and all are Losi, so I am very brand loyal. But I have been having the same problem with 2.0, so I have been reading these forums and looking at and driving other cars for the last 2 months trying to decide what car to try next. I will say that the Mugen is one of the easiest cars I have ever driven, and is high up on my list, but I also liked the X-ray and it seems like everybody compares Quality and durabillity to the X-ray. I have also looked and thought about the JQ, Serpent, an Durango, and all have there pro's and con's but they all seem to get compaired to the X-ray for just how good they are, so I think I will just get what others are being measured up to. Now this is just my .02 based on my research over the past 2 months.
#40
This is a great thread. Keep the real world experience with the different buggies coming!
#42
I'm in the market for a new buggy. I've been driving a losi for a long time and have had nothing but problems finding a setup to suit my driving style. I can not seem to get a grip on a extremly loose rear. I've tried all kind of changes to settle the rear down, but with no luck. So what I'm asking is some advise on different buggys that seem to alittle easier to drive. I'm not the smoothest driver out there and maybe thats my problem with the losi. I'm not looking for answers like "I drive a mugen and it the best", looking for helpful info from people who maybe have drivin a losi and now drive something else. I'm also being open minded when it comes to brand.
#43
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
So I've noticed a slight trend in this thread and others--usually something along the lines of "the rear just didn't feel planted no matter what I did."
How many of the XRAY drivers have this to say about their buggies? (only because I am thinking of picking this buggy up)
Is this a matter of setup, or actual buggy design?
Thanks for the info
How many of the XRAY drivers have this to say about their buggies? (only because I am thinking of picking this buggy up)
Is this a matter of setup, or actual buggy design?
Thanks for the info
#44
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
So I've noticed a slight trend in this thread and others--usually something along the lines of "the rear just didn't feel planted no matter what I did."
How many of the XRAY drivers have this to say about their buggies? (only because I am thinking of picking this buggy up)
Is this a matter of setup, or actual buggy design?
Thanks for the info
How many of the XRAY drivers have this to say about their buggies? (only because I am thinking of picking this buggy up)
Is this a matter of setup, or actual buggy design?
Thanks for the info
setup is KEY! every buggy out now are great if setup right and setup for you. some work for you better than others, try to drive them and see which one fits your driving style best.
#45
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Ok
I raced an Xray 808 the 08 edition for a long time, and it honestly felt planted in the rear. I havent driven newer versions, but the real reason I switched to the Mugen is just how great it soaks up the bumps and jumps. It can be driven harder and stay on it's wheels.....the shocks are longer, and the cvd pins last longer too....
Like previously stated it does take some time to set it up the way you want it, but the stock M spec setup is a great start....It is really planted in the rear, so I reduced the rear toe in to 2.75, not much change but combined with the oter changes I made It rotates really fast, but never feels loose or squirly, unless I have the wrong tires for the conditions.....
To be fair to other cars, any car can be set up to be planted in the rear, it just takes a little time to find the setup....
Like the JQ car, it has so many adjustments, it really looks awesome to dial in...
At the club level all the way to the top Mugen has proven itself with the MBX-6. I resisted buying a Mugen for years, then I drove an MBX-6......I say go drive a friends car....Get whatever ar you want, and then take the time to set it up....It's all in the setupppp......Tires, toe in, caster, camber, oils, pistons, springs, swaybars...
.My favorites from first to last...
Tires
Caster usually less
Springs
Shock oil
Shock pistons
toe in
diff oil
Swaybar.....You can put a thinner rear swaybar to give more rear traction...
thinner front for more steering...For example....
Al these things balance out the cars natural design tendencies....
the Mugen was too planted in the rear, but rolled in the turns...
So I put a thinner front swaybar
smaller front pistons to prevent bottoming out...with stiffer front springs...felt saggy..
Reduced toe in in the rear...avoided too much toe out in the front....
Lowered rear droop and ride height...Fixed rollover..
Moved front upper arms forward, reducing caster....Increasing steering......
Now it's balanced....
Like previously stated it does take some time to set it up the way you want it, but the stock M spec setup is a great start....It is really planted in the rear, so I reduced the rear toe in to 2.75, not much change but combined with the oter changes I made It rotates really fast, but never feels loose or squirly, unless I have the wrong tires for the conditions.....
To be fair to other cars, any car can be set up to be planted in the rear, it just takes a little time to find the setup....
Like the JQ car, it has so many adjustments, it really looks awesome to dial in...
At the club level all the way to the top Mugen has proven itself with the MBX-6. I resisted buying a Mugen for years, then I drove an MBX-6......I say go drive a friends car....Get whatever ar you want, and then take the time to set it up....It's all in the setupppp......Tires, toe in, caster, camber, oils, pistons, springs, swaybars...
.My favorites from first to last...
Tires
Caster usually less
Springs
Shock oil
Shock pistons
toe in
diff oil
Swaybar.....You can put a thinner rear swaybar to give more rear traction...
thinner front for more steering...For example....
Al these things balance out the cars natural design tendencies....
the Mugen was too planted in the rear, but rolled in the turns...
So I put a thinner front swaybar
smaller front pistons to prevent bottoming out...with stiffer front springs...felt saggy..
Reduced toe in in the rear...avoided too much toe out in the front....
Lowered rear droop and ride height...Fixed rollover..
Moved front upper arms forward, reducing caster....Increasing steering......
Now it's balanced....