1Likesrc screws?
02-22-2011, 05:47 PM
#31
Protek on amainhobbies are $1.99 packs of 10 screws plus they are 12.9 steel. That's what I buy the most.
02-22-2011, 07:03 PM
#34
Ti screws, while not as strong as a high grade steel equivalent are still quite strong and a good bit lighter. They are strong enough for probably 80% of the car's locations. But they are a bit easier to strip and offroad guys seem to love gorilla grips, gobs of loctite and cheap, worn out tools
02-22-2011, 08:21 PM
#35
Lol. 2 bucks is crazy $$$ but on the flip side.. they have yo pay for the web site.. bags, labels, someone to bag and label.. staple it shut.. the staples. The stapler.. the water to flush the toilet when that workers uses the bathroom lmao. You get it. But that's tons of profit over their cost.
02-22-2011, 08:51 PM
#36
Ok smart a$$, What im saying is that if I need to buy a 15 to 20 different sizes of screws then now we are talking $30 to $40. If thats the case ill just buy the set of tonys for the d8 and be done. The reason I started this whole post was to see if anyone had any ideas of where to get this stuff way way cheaper. Ive seen them on ebay for $2 for 100 screws, the problem with that is I dont need that many of one. So $2 for 10 vs 100 is a big difference.
02-28-2011, 07:29 AM
#38
Hi wichitafc98,
I'll have the DNX408 screw kit in stock later this evening as well as the other Team Durango kits and a ton of other new kits. My day job has been keeping me very busy. The wife and kids have consumed me as well. Wife just had a recent surgery, my son fell on his skateboard and busted up his head and then my older daughter goes out with her girlfriend who just got her driver's license and they crashed into a tree. Parenting....ughh!!!
I'm finally catching up with the new screw kits though.
As for Titanium, you can search these threads and ones on other forums. The topic comes up regularly. They are lighter, and resist rust like stainless, but are much stronger than stainless. High grade alloy steel is stronger there and much cheaper. Problem with Titanium screws is they are VERY expensive. You can usually get a lot more bang for your buck (or more weight savings) with items like: tires, rims, foams, body (you'd be surprised at how much lighter a good paint job is), motor, pipe, header, LiPo Rx pack, etc). Plus many of the Mfg's offer light weight aluminum options in some areas (such as alum steering posts instead of steel) or carbon fiber (such as shock towers). The Titanium screws, if used, should be used in low stress areas. They will break easier than high grade alloy steel. Also be careful using them in places you use thread lock. I so like Titanium turnbuckles. Stainless steel is much softer than Ti and high grade alloy steel. Personally, I have only used them when I ran my old T-Maxx in the snow. Or on bead lock rims b/c they looked nice and didn't rust.
Best regards,
I'll have the DNX408 screw kit in stock later this evening as well as the other Team Durango kits and a ton of other new kits. My day job has been keeping me very busy. The wife and kids have consumed me as well. Wife just had a recent surgery, my son fell on his skateboard and busted up his head and then my older daughter goes out with her girlfriend who just got her driver's license and they crashed into a tree. Parenting....ughh!!!
I'm finally catching up with the new screw kits though.
As for Titanium, you can search these threads and ones on other forums. The topic comes up regularly. They are lighter, and resist rust like stainless, but are much stronger than stainless. High grade alloy steel is stronger there and much cheaper. Problem with Titanium screws is they are VERY expensive. You can usually get a lot more bang for your buck (or more weight savings) with items like: tires, rims, foams, body (you'd be surprised at how much lighter a good paint job is), motor, pipe, header, LiPo Rx pack, etc). Plus many of the Mfg's offer light weight aluminum options in some areas (such as alum steering posts instead of steel) or carbon fiber (such as shock towers). The Titanium screws, if used, should be used in low stress areas. They will break easier than high grade alloy steel. Also be careful using them in places you use thread lock. I so like Titanium turnbuckles. Stainless steel is much softer than Ti and high grade alloy steel. Personally, I have only used them when I ran my old T-Maxx in the snow. Or on bead lock rims b/c they looked nice and didn't rust.
Best regards,
02-28-2011, 07:49 AM
#39
I am gonna try some Hex Head AP Screws for my SC8 and RC8T when I can. I already have them in my Monster GT .21 from many moons ago and they work great and dont rust.
http://www.hexcrews.com/hexheads-a.p.-screw-kits-2.aspx
http://www.hexcrews.com/hexheads-a.p.-screw-kits-2.aspx
Last edited by mgtmadness2007; 02-28-2011 at 07:55 AM. Reason: added link
02-28-2011, 07:56 AM
#40
Whats wrong with stock screws, do you guys really go through that many screws?
02-28-2011, 08:19 AM
#42
Hi wichitafc98,
I'll have the DNX408 screw kit in stock later this evening as well as the other Team Durango kits and a ton of other new kits. My day job has been keeping me very busy. The wife and kids have consumed me as well. Wife just had a recent surgery, my son fell on his skateboard and busted up his head and then my older daughter goes out with her girlfriend who just got her driver's license and they crashed into a tree. Parenting....ughh!!!
I'm finally catching up with the new screw kits though.
As for Titanium, you can search these threads and ones on other forums. The topic comes up regularly. They are lighter, and resist rust like stainless, but are much stronger than stainless. High grade alloy steel is stronger there and much cheaper. Problem with Titanium screws is they are VERY expensive. You can usually get a lot more bang for your buck (or more weight savings) with items like: tires, rims, foams, body (you'd be surprised at how much lighter a good paint job is), motor, pipe, header, LiPo Rx pack, etc). Plus many of the Mfg's offer light weight aluminum options in some areas (such as alum steering posts instead of steel) or carbon fiber (such as shock towers). The Titanium screws, if used, should be used in low stress areas. They will break easier than high grade alloy steel. Also be careful using them in places you use thread lock. I so like Titanium turnbuckles. Stainless steel is much softer than Ti and high grade alloy steel. Personally, I have only used them when I ran my old T-Maxx in the snow. Or on bead lock rims b/c they looked nice and didn't rust.
Best regards,
I'll have the DNX408 screw kit in stock later this evening as well as the other Team Durango kits and a ton of other new kits. My day job has been keeping me very busy. The wife and kids have consumed me as well. Wife just had a recent surgery, my son fell on his skateboard and busted up his head and then my older daughter goes out with her girlfriend who just got her driver's license and they crashed into a tree. Parenting....ughh!!!
I'm finally catching up with the new screw kits though.
As for Titanium, you can search these threads and ones on other forums. The topic comes up regularly. They are lighter, and resist rust like stainless, but are much stronger than stainless. High grade alloy steel is stronger there and much cheaper. Problem with Titanium screws is they are VERY expensive. You can usually get a lot more bang for your buck (or more weight savings) with items like: tires, rims, foams, body (you'd be surprised at how much lighter a good paint job is), motor, pipe, header, LiPo Rx pack, etc). Plus many of the Mfg's offer light weight aluminum options in some areas (such as alum steering posts instead of steel) or carbon fiber (such as shock towers). The Titanium screws, if used, should be used in low stress areas. They will break easier than high grade alloy steel. Also be careful using them in places you use thread lock. I so like Titanium turnbuckles. Stainless steel is much softer than Ti and high grade alloy steel. Personally, I have only used them when I ran my old T-Maxx in the snow. Or on bead lock rims b/c they looked nice and didn't rust.
Best regards,
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