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Old 02-11-2011, 05:34 AM   #1
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Default D-8 HARA battery tray mods?

Anyone have some kind of mod or idea to get to the pack easier? I'm not a big fan of charging my batteries in the car so it will be in and out. With my luck I'll end up losing the nuts and possibly a bolt or both at the track

IMO the battery tray is kind of a jag set up.

Any pics or ideas please post up.

Thanks.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:26 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by got_nitro View Post
Anyone have some kind of mod or idea to get to the pack easier? I'm not a big fan of charging my batteries in the car so it will be in and out. With my luck I'll end up losing the nuts and possibly a bolt or both at the track

IMO the battery tray is kind of a jag set up.

Any pics or ideas please post up.

Thanks.
Trying to fit a LiPo?

If so, the Robotronic 1500mAh pack is a drop in, requiring no modifications to the battery box. You can find them here:

http://store.vgracing.com/batteries/...0mah-7-4v.html

Before I was able to find that battery, I ordered a Common Sense LiPo:

http://www.commonsenserc.com/product...roducts_id=258

This did require some slight modifications to the battery box. Below are some photos of the 2 batteries as they fit in the battery box. PM me for more detail on modifying the battery box if you still need that info. - Jim

LIPO or LIFE?

I can easily remove both batteries from the battery box for charging and they are completely secure in the box - still properly held in by the battery box lid and a few pieces of foam rubber to keep them from moving around.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:45 AM   #3
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That looks good dude^^.

What I'm trying to do is use a lipo or a NiMh whatever I decide to go with but making the box more accessable i.e possibly using body clips like rest of them instead of nuts and bolts I do want to use the stock cover though and I do want it as closed up as possible, know what I mean? Right now I can fit a 1600MAH NiMh pack in the box but I hate not being able to pull off a couple of clips to get at the pack.
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:12 AM   #4
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take the battery top off and leave it off, just velcro the battery in the box (a piece under the battery to the bottom of box), so all you would have to do is take the body off... ive seen people velcro their battery to the stone side guards to move the batter forward and have no issue with it coming out. just an idea.
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Old 02-11-2011, 08:04 AM   #5
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For those nuts, usually when building a car it's a good idea to put a little CA glue to hold the nuts in place. You could do this on the radio tray, wing mounts, servo saver bellcrank, spindles (plastic), chassis braces, etc... The battery box lid screws are there for durability. On other cars body clips are used and the body clips can fail allowing the battery to eject from it's compartment.
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Old 02-11-2011, 08:16 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by got_nitro View Post
That looks good dude^^.

What I'm trying to do is use a lipo or a NiMh whatever I decide to go with but making the box more accessable i.e possibly using body clips like rest of them instead of nuts and bolts I do want to use the stock cover though and I do want it as closed up as possible, know what I mean? Right now I can fit a 1600MAH NiMh pack in the box but I hate not being able to pull off a couple of clips to get at the pack.
I hear ya. I felt the same way initially. Today though, I do like the security of the bolted lid. Takes a few extra seconds to get the battery out, but not a big deal. I glued the lock nuts into the lower battery box to prevent them from falling out, though I still tend to place the screws back in the holes even with the lid off.

I'm sure you've seen the AE screws that have holes drilled in them to accept body clips. These were used on the original RC10's way back in the 80's to hold the NiCd battery packs in. Here they are:

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6916/

They're 4-40, so you'd have to change the nuts in the lower battery box. Once installed, you can enlarge the holes in the lid to fit over the cap head screw and use 1/10th scale body clips to hold the lid on.

Good luck.

Jim
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:32 PM   #7
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The manual says CA, but I used Shoe-goo and think it's alot easier. Just bolt it up, dap some shoegoo on the outside of the nut and then let it dry. No more issues with the bolt falling out. Do the same on the wing mounts.
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
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The manual says CA, but I used Shoe-goo and think it's alot easier. Just bolt it up, dap some shoegoo on the outside of the nut and then let it dry. No more issues with the bolt falling out. Do the same on the wing mounts.
Same thing I did works great.No worries of losing nuts.
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Old 02-11-2011, 01:02 PM   #9
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use a switch that also has a charging jack. i made a small slit in reciever box where the compartment top meets the compartment box edge and that lead just slightly hangs out. simple and no need to remove the battery at all
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Old 02-11-2011, 01:06 PM   #10
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Go to ebay and type "Yeah racing lipo 1800". They fit and work great and are $24.00 shipped
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Old 02-11-2011, 01:10 PM   #11
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sorry missed the part about you wanting to take them out every time you charge. disregard what i said unless you want to keep it in for charging.
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:02 PM   #12
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Thanks guys.

I did read about using CA in the manual too. There's not a whole lot of material there to grind/drill away on the cover and install some kind of battery post in place of the screws so one could use small body clips.

I'll just have to use a dab of some gorilla glue or maybe some hot glue. I was even thinking about covering up the nut slot with a piece of tape just to make sure I don't lose them Nothing worse then scrambling around at the last min before a race....
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:13 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by got_nitro View Post
Thanks guys.

I did read about using CA in the manual too. There's not a whole lot of material there to grind/drill away on the cover and install some kind of battery post in place of the screws so one could use small body clips.

I'll just have to use a dab of some gorilla glue or maybe some hot glue. I was even thinking about covering up the nut slot with a piece of tape just to make sure I don't lose them Nothing worse then scrambling around at the last min before a race....
once the screws are in with the nuts put a drop of ca in there, nut won't fall out and plastic won't strip.
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldawg RC View Post
use a switch that also has a charging jack. i made a small slit in reciever box where the compartment top meets the compartment box edge and that lead just slightly hangs out. simple and no need to remove the battery at all
i recommend not doing that, alot of the time charging it that way actually makes it not get a full charge ro over charges it, its hard for the charger to read it so can damage battery... when i ran HB i cut a hole in the side of the battery box and wired the switch end out side so you can pug and unplug it from the switch easily.
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