R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-04-2011, 10:14 PM   #16
Tech Master
 
johnny t's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,289
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default Shocks

Not much different than in full size racing. Next to tires is shocks and not just limited to oils. Just so happens, like in 1:1, shocks are the most misunderstood.

Next thing that makes a major difference would be properly built car.
johnny t is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2011, 10:21 PM   #17
Tech Master
 
jpz_67's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Texas.
Posts: 1,787
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

Droop,diffs,shocks. Probably in that order for me.
__________________
Agama A215, Futaba, Nitro Pro Fuel, Proline tires, Triton Engines, Savox.
jpz_67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2011, 10:40 PM   #18
Tech Regular
 
Redvet79's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Mifflintown, Pa
Posts: 410
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Hudy Set Up Book Section 1.6 Toe.

How many people use toe in on buggy & truggy??
__________________
See You At The Track
Lost Creek R/C Oakland Mills, Pa.
Redvet79 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2011, 01:51 AM   #19
Tech Elite
 
Teufel Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sparks Nv.
Posts: 2,134
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Never seen anyone go with toe in,

Unless they totally screwed the pooch on the setup. Seems 0 to 3 degrees out is the norm. I'm sure someone out there has done it and liked it. Perhaps some on road guys, but that's juat a guess.
__________________
J.Mikoliczyk

ZX6 - RB6 - MP9e
Fantom Racing, Cheater Racing
Houston's Engine Service
Teufel Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2011, 03:31 AM   #20
Tech Master
 
vti-chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cyprus
Posts: 1,075
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

I'm asking for 1/8th buggies!!

Which setup changes will have the most impact on handling???
I know that if we use hard-solid rear shocks it will steer like crazy BUT i want to know about small changes that will have the most impact on the handling of the car.
Say i have no steering...which will give me the most noticeable difference at once??
__________________
Xray/OS/Savox/Sanwa
Axial XR10
Sakura Zero S/Castlecreations
RCO
vti-chris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2011, 04:46 AM   #21
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: OHIO
Posts: 134
Default

Changes to try, think this list was from JQ

More Overall steering:
Softer front spring
Stiffer rear spring
Thinner front sway bar
Less rear toe in
Add more rear droop

Less Overall steering:
Take above list and do opposite
also try thicker front shock oil
front shock out on arm

These are quick changes you can make between runs. Don't forget about making small changes on your radio (EPA, EXPO Steering/Throttle,) can also make a difference.
__________________
Hobby PRO-USA
Agama A8 / A8T / A8E
Team Strike / Sidewinder
Sirio ExTech
Pro Match Racing
Ramirez24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2011, 12:51 PM   #22
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Iceland
Posts: 206
Send a message via MSN to helgso
Default

Hey guys, when the kit is at full throttle (when turned off), should the carb be 100% open or somewhere like 90% open?
__________________
Losi LST, Mach 427, JR servos
helgso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2011, 01:39 PM   #23
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brandon, MS
Posts: 543
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redvet79 View Post
Hudy Set Up Book Section 1.6 Toe.

How many people use toe in on buggy & truggy??
Try it, you will like it. Great fine tuning adjustment. Affects turn in, corner exit and straight line stability.
bentgear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2011, 03:14 PM   #24
JQ
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,588
Default

Here's the long reply:

http://jq-products.com/the-news/43-t.../160-the-guide
JQ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2011, 03:22 PM   #25
Tech Champion
 
Trevor Williams's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 8,218
Trader Rating: 195 (100%+)
Default

TLR factory setup tips





Pistons And Shock Oil:
-In the front smaller holes take away turn in and increase mid corner steering. In the rear, smaller holes increase turn in and give more on power rear bite which means less on power steering. Smaller holes jump and land better.

-The problem is the dust. Nothing has traction on dusty surfaces. Try using smaller hole piston/lighter oil combination with the same springs your using now.

-Smaller hole pistons will have more pack which will make the chassis drive flatter around the track. They will also jump better. On really bumpy tracks small hole pistons will stay on top of the bumps and with big hole pistons your car will stay lower through the bumps.

-In the front small pistons take away response, and in the rear the big pistons are to absorb bumps

-Answer from Matt on how to get more side bite: Lighter front oil

-Front-More pack gives you more steering and more responsiveness. Less pack gives you less steering and smoother reaction.

-Rear-More pack gives you more forward traction and side bite. Less pack, just the opposite.

-The heavier your car is dampened the less chassis roll it will have. I feel this creates more stability and easier to drive. Lighter dampening makes the chassis roll. This at times can be good if you are on a track where you need rotation in the turns.

NOTE: Also keep in mind you will want to change your oil to keep up with outside temperature. For example, you practice at 8:00a.m. and its 70 degrees out and your car is dialed. Then you run your first qualifier at 12:00p.m. when the temp gets up to 95 degrees, suddenly your car feels unstable and unpredictable. Up your shock 5wt and your car will back to being dialed. This is something that you want to play with to get a good feel so you know when to increase or decrease your oil and how much to do it by.


Springs And Limiters:
-Buggy front springs work good when using the inside hole on the front arm. This creates a progressive feel and keeps the front end up with such a soft mounting location.

-Front limiters give more on power steering on smooth tracks, but on rough tracks takes away steering everywhere. Washers on both cancel each other out

-Inner limiters control weight transfer. As you move in on the mounting location of the arm, you must limit the shock to equal down travel of a farther out mounting location.

- Softer front springs give less high-speed steering and more low speed and less nose height when jumping. Softer rear springs, give less high-speed side bite, more exit corner steering, less forward bite, less height when jumping.

Anti Squat:
-Stock is 2 deg. less anti squat give more side bite and less forward bite. Vice versa.

Sway Bars:
-Generally, sway bars take away rear traction, which means on high bite tracks they give more on power steering.

Camber Links:
-A longer camber link gives the car less roll in the turns and more forward bite. Making it longer in the bulkhead is similar to moving it up on the inside in giving the wheel less camber change.

-What effect does changing the roll center on the car have, when the camber link is basically kept the same length? Specifically in the front: 3-B vs. 2-A? Answer from Matt: Going in on the front camber link takes away initial steering, making the car easier to drive.

Hub Spacing And Carrier Info:
-If you run the hubs forward it will increase forward bite, but decrease side bite. If you feel the car is too locked-in in the middle of the turn run the hubs forward. If the track gets really bumpy run the hubs back.

-When you raise the spindle it will make the car react faster. When the spindle is down it will smooth out the steering.

-25 degree castor blocks will be smoother going into the turn and have more steering coming out compared to 30 degree blocks.

-Washers under the spindle give the car bump in which makes it less responsive and more forgiving during jumping. Under he bellcrank give it bump out which increases responsiveness.



Tire Stuff:
-The softer the tire is the better a multi stage foam works. Soft tires have soft sidewalls, which roll over in cornering, and the multi stage foams hold the tire up. In firmer compound tires it is not necessary to use a multi stage foam, but can be to an advantage. On a general note, multi stage foam creates more corner speed.

-With foam, run firmer foam on smooth tracks and soft foam on rough tracks.

Shock Location:
-Adam- what is the advantage of changing shock positions from #2 and middle in the arm to #3 still using the middle in the arm in the rear of the XXXT. More forward traction or more side bite? Answer from Adam: Moving from the #2 hole to the #3 hole will make the truck square up faster and give you more forward traction. It will also go through the bumps better.

This info is from various LOSI manuals:

Ride Height:
-Raising the front ride height can cause quicker steering reaction.

Camber:
-Increasing negative camber in the front will increase steering.
-Increasing negative camber in the rear will result in less side bite.

Rear Hub Camber Location:
-Outer hole will make car feel stiffer resulting in straighter acceleration.
-Inner hole will go through bumps better and give feeling of more steering but from the rear end which may be the car swinging around.

Rear Camber Link Length:
-Longer camber link will usually result in more rear traction due to less chassis role.
-Shorter camber link will usually result in more steering from rear end due to increased chassis role.

Washers Under Front Camber Link Ball Stud:
-Less washers makes the steering more aggressive.

Front Camber Link Length:
-Shorter camber link will result in more front end role which increases high speed steering.
-Longer camber link will make the care feel stiffer and have less role.


Front Shock Location:
TOP
-Moving the top of the shock out will result in an increase in steering and the car will react quicker.
-Moving the top for the shock in will slow the steering response time.

BOTTOM
-Moving the bottom of the shocks in will result in more low-speed steering and less high-speed steering and will usually require limiters to limit downtravel (inside shock) and the springs should be changed to a stiffer spring.
-Moving the bottom of the shocks out will reduce overall travel, increase high-speed steering, and reduce low-speed steering.

Rear Shock Location:
TOP
-Moving the top out results in more side-bite.
-Moving the top in results in more forward traction and a softer spring should be used.

BOTTOM
-Moving the bottom in will make car smoother in bumps but reduce stability.

Rear Anti-Squat:
-Less anti-squat will give you more side-bite.

Rear Hub Spacing:
-Spacing the hub back will help on large, high-speed tracks (more traction).
-Spacing the hub forward will help on small, tight tracks (more steering).

Battery Location:
-Moving the battery back will improve rear traction. (Caution: Too far back will cause rear end to swing around)

This info is from RCV:

Need More Steering
• Batteries - Move batteries towards the front of the vehicle.
• Front Shock Mounting - Move the lower shock mount towards the outside
• Front Camber Link - Longer camber links increase steering
• Front Ride Height - Lower the front ride height
• Rear Ride Height - Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
• Rear Shock Mounting - Move upper mount towards outside
• Wheelbase - Lengthen the wheelbase for more steering
• Rear Toe-in - Decrease rear toe-in
• Ackerman - Use less Ackerman for more sensitive steering

Need More Traction
• Batteries - Move batteries towards the rear of the vehicle (but not too far)
• Rear Ride Height - Lower rear ride height
• Rear Camber - Less camber (0 -1 deg.)
• Camber Link - Longer camber links
• Rear Shock Mounting - Move upper mount towards the inside
• Wheelbase - Shorten the wheelbase
• Rear Toe-in - Increase rear toe-in
• Slipper - Loosen slipper so wheels don't spin as much

Need Better Jumping
• Shock Oil - If bouncing too much or bottoms out over jumps, use heavier oil
• Shock Pistons - If bottoming out over jumps, use smaller hole pistons
• Rear Shock Mounting - If bottoming out over jumps move upper mount towards the outside
• Battery Position - If nose high during jumps, move battery forward, move rearward if nose is down during jumps
• Weight - Add weight to nose if it's too high during jumps

Need More High Speed Steering
• Front Toe - More toe-in gives you more steering coming out of the corners
• Front Caster - Less caster gives you more steering exiting corners
• Rear Ride Height - Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering

More Stable Over Rough Tracks
• Anti-squat - Less anti-squat allows better acceleration on rough tracks
• Rear Camber - More negative camber is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Rear Camber Link - Shorter camber links is more stable on bumpy tracks
• Front Shock Mounting - Move lower shock mount inside for bumpy tracks
• Battery Mounting - Place in the middle for most stable on all tracks
__________________
RC10-B6d | RC10-B64d
SmacTrac
#WeAreAE #ReedyPower #AE4Life
Trevor Williams is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2011, 03:34 PM   #26
Tech Elite
 
t8rtot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,008
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

http://www.competitionx.com/

I wish this site would get more recognition, great info
__________________
Sfida
t8rtot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2011, 05:00 PM   #27
Tech Regular
 
Trugsta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: sunshine coast australia
Posts: 468
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to Trugsta
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Williams View Post
TLR factory setup tips





Pistons And Shock Oil:
-In the front smaller holes take away turn in and increase mid corner steering. In the rear, smaller holes increase turn in and give more on power rear bite which means less on power steering. Smaller holes jump and land better.

-The problem is the dust. Nothing has traction on dusty surfaces. Try using smaller hole piston/lighter oil combination with the same springs your using now.

-Smaller hole pistons will have more pack which will make the chassis drive flatter around the track. They will also jump better. On really bumpy tracks small hole pistons will stay on top of the bumps and with big hole pistons your car will stay lower through the bumps.

-In the front small pistons take away response, and in the rear the big pistons are to absorb bumps

-Answer from Matt on how to get more side bite: Lighter front oil

-Front-More pack gives you more steering and more responsiveness. Less pack gives you less steering and smoother reaction.

-Rear-More pack gives you more forward traction and side bite. Less pack, just the opposite.

-The heavier your car is dampened the less chassis roll it will have. I feel this creates more stability and easier to drive. Lighter dampening makes the chassis roll. This at times can be good if you are on a track where you need rotation in the turns.

NOTE: Also keep in mind you will want to change your oil to keep up with outside temperature. For example, you practice at 8:00a.m. and its 70 degrees out and your car is dialed. Then you run your first qualifier at 12:00p.m. when the temp gets up to 95 degrees, suddenly your car feels unstable and unpredictable. Up your shock 5wt and your car will back to being dialed. This is something that you want to play with to get a good feel so you know when to increase or decrease your oil and how much to do it by.


Springs And Limiters:
-Buggy front springs work good when using the inside hole on the front arm. This creates a progressive feel and keeps the front end up with such a soft mounting location.

-Front limiters give more on power steering on smooth tracks, but on rough tracks takes away steering everywhere. Washers on both cancel each other out

-Inner limiters control weight transfer. As you move in on the mounting location of the arm, you must limit the shock to equal down travel of a farther out mounting location.

- Softer front springs give less high-speed steering and more low speed and less nose height when jumping. Softer rear springs, give less high-speed side bite, more exit corner steering, less forward bite, less height when jumping.

Anti Squat:
-Stock is 2 deg. less anti squat give more side bite and less forward bite. Vice versa.

Sway Bars:
-Generally, sway bars take away rear traction, which means on high bite tracks they give more on power steering.

Camber Links:
-A longer camber link gives the car less roll in the turns and more forward bite. Making it longer in the bulkhead is similar to moving it up on the inside in giving the wheel less camber change.

-What effect does changing the roll center on the car have, when the camber link is basically kept the same length? Specifically in the front: 3-B vs. 2-A? Answer from Matt: Going in on the front camber link takes away initial steering, making the car easier to drive.

Hub Spacing And Carrier Info:
-If you run the hubs forward it will increase forward bite, but decrease side bite. If you feel the car is too locked-in in the middle of the turn run the hubs forward. If the track gets really bumpy run the hubs back.

-When you raise the spindle it will make the car react faster. When the spindle is down it will smooth out the steering.

-25 degree castor blocks will be smoother going into the turn and have more steering coming out compared to 30 degree blocks.

-Washers under the spindle give the car bump in which makes it less responsive and more forgiving during jumping. Under he bellcrank give it bump out which increases responsiveness.



Tire Stuff:
-The softer the tire is the better a multi stage foam works. Soft tires have soft sidewalls, which roll over in cornering, and the multi stage foams hold the tire up. In firmer compound tires it is not necessary to use a multi stage foam, but can be to an advantage. On a general note, multi stage foam creates more corner speed.

-With foam, run firmer foam on smooth tracks and soft foam on rough tracks.

Shock Location:
-Adam- what is the advantage of changing shock positions from #2 and middle in the arm to #3 still using the middle in the arm in the rear of the XXXT. More forward traction or more side bite? Answer from Adam: Moving from the #2 hole to the #3 hole will make the truck square up faster and give you more forward traction. It will also go through the bumps better.

This info is from various LOSI manuals:

Ride Height:
-Raising the front ride height can cause quicker steering reaction.

Camber:
-Increasing negative camber in the front will increase steering.
-Increasing negative camber in the rear will result in less side bite.

Rear Hub Camber Location:
-Outer hole will make car feel stiffer resulting in straighter acceleration.
-Inner hole will go through bumps better and give feeling of more steering but from the rear end which may be the car swinging around.

Rear Camber Link Length:
-Longer camber link will usually result in more rear traction due to less chassis role.
-Shorter camber link will usually result in more steering from rear end due to increased chassis role.

Washers Under Front Camber Link Ball Stud:
-Less washers makes the steering more aggressive.

Front Camber Link Length:
-Shorter camber link will result in more front end role which increases high speed steering.
-Longer camber link will make the care feel stiffer and have less role.


Front Shock Location:
TOP
-Moving the top of the shock out will result in an increase in steering and the car will react quicker.
-Moving the top for the shock in will slow the steering response time.

BOTTOM
-Moving the bottom of the shocks in will result in more low-speed steering and less high-speed steering and will usually require limiters to limit downtravel (inside shock) and the springs should be changed to a stiffer spring.
-Moving the bottom of the shocks out will reduce overall travel, increase high-speed steering, and reduce low-speed steering.

Rear Shock Location:
TOP
-Moving the top out results in more side-bite.
-Moving the top in results in more forward traction and a softer spring should be used.

BOTTOM
-Moving the bottom in will make car smoother in bumps but reduce stability.

Rear Anti-Squat:
-Less anti-squat will give you more side-bite.

Rear Hub Spacing:
-Spacing the hub back will help on large, high-speed tracks (more traction).
-Spacing the hub forward will help on small, tight tracks (more steering).

Battery Location:
-Moving the battery back will improve rear traction. (Caution: Too far back will cause rear end to swing around)

This info is from RCV:

Need More Steering
Batteries - Move batteries towards the front of the vehicle.
Front Shock Mounting - Move the lower shock mount towards the outside
Front Camber Link - Longer camber links increase steering
Front Ride Height - Lower the front ride height
Rear Ride Height - Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering
Rear Shock Mounting - Move upper mount towards outside
Wheelbase - Lengthen the wheelbase for more steering
Rear Toe-in - Decrease rear toe-in
Ackerman - Use less Ackerman for more sensitive steering

Need More Traction
Batteries - Move batteries towards the rear of the vehicle (but not too far)
Rear Ride Height - Lower rear ride height
Rear Camber - Less camber (0 -1 deg.)
Camber Link - Longer camber links
Rear Shock Mounting - Move upper mount towards the inside
Wheelbase - Shorten the wheelbase
Rear Toe-in - Increase rear toe-in
Slipper - Loosen slipper so wheels don't spin as much

Need Better Jumping
Shock Oil - If bouncing too much or bottoms out over jumps, use heavier oil
Shock Pistons - If bottoming out over jumps, use smaller hole pistons
Rear Shock Mounting - If bottoming out over jumps move upper mount towards the outside
Battery Position - If nose high during jumps, move battery forward, move rearward if nose is down during jumps
Weight - Add weight to nose if it's too high during jumps

Need More High Speed Steering
Front Toe - More toe-in gives you more steering coming out of the corners
Front Caster - Less caster gives you more steering exiting corners
Rear Ride Height - Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering

More Stable Over Rough Tracks
Anti-squat - Less anti-squat allows better acceleration on rough tracks
Rear Camber - More negative camber is more stable on bumpy tracks
Rear Camber Link - Shorter camber links is more stable on bumpy tracks
Front Shock Mounting - Move lower shock mount inside for bumpy tracks
Battery Mounting - Place in the middle for most stable on all tracks

POST OF THE WEEK..
Great Info that everyone should know and revise when possible..
Thanks for taking the time to type this it will help alot of people..
__________________
Proud Member of S.C.O.R.C.
Losi 8T2- Novarossi P5/Novarossi and GRP pipes.
spektrum DX3S. SAVOX servos. "Race till it MHZ"
A huge thanks to.
www.motorsaver.com (the absolute best filters and savers on the plannet).
Trugsta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2011, 05:54 PM   #28
Tech Addict
 
cordarrow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 542
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Hands down....roll centers. Play with these in practice, one hole at a time.
The change is undeniable and immediate.
cordarrow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2011, 06:02 PM   #29
Tech Addict
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: sw ohio
Posts: 670
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

i downloaded rc car workbench for my droid...lots of killer info regarding setups. well worth a look
__________________
The Hobby Shop,The Ohio RC Factory
T.O.P. Photon CRC XTI, XRAY T4 15 xray xb4 xb8e losi sct 2.0

insanity takes it's toll...please have exact change
bpalmer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2011, 10:19 PM   #30
Tech Master
 
1BLADE1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: in a Very BIG house
Posts: 1,028
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vti-chris View Post
Can u post which setting u tried and know that had the most effect on the car handling...please try and put some in an order of which has the most and whix has the less impact on the car.
Apart from tyres!!!


some really great Answers.....!!!!!

in short all the answers he was looking for are in the thread...
for the "General Norm"

i did not go through all of them? but i do not think anyone
"Answered His Question"....???

there are Seveal Difinitive answers....

BUT !!!!
Assuming the car is in "It's General Set" for the "DRIVER"
let's take away the track,oils,tires and engines......
yes, yes, we all know all that "Contributes"
but there are 6billion people so you'll get 42 trillion answers...
and Twice as many "Attitudes".....

keep in mind the Suggestions some will give is what
"Worked-or there Interpretation of what works of what worked for Them"
this does not Mean it will or Will Not work for you.
so go by the Recomendation of the Models "Starting set up"

Now,
Camber, Toe Setings and roll centers will have good Noticable "Effects" on cars in "General" and there some of the more
"Simpler" to Quickly ADJUST on the Fly...
"Except Roll-center" maybe the front for some Models.......
the rear however, for Most Models you'll have to re-adjust the camber settings,again this will "Vary for YOUR Model"

to all those, yes ,yes, we all know the other settings have "Effect" as well..
but,
the Camber and toe settings will be the "Easier" to adjust without Dismantaling the car...and the effects of course you'll "Feel" right away...positive or Negitive...

and the next will be the Roll centers....
the other will mostly be "Fine Tuning" to how you drive and will be Indicative to the track you drive on....

those are some of the easier settings with the cars 95% to 99% "Intact"
even still follow what is "Recommended Starting Set Up" for your Model....
then "Tires" for your Given track.......
from there you should be about 90% there
the rest "Confidence" and some practice.......

and of course the 20 Billion recommendations of oils,springs,tires,and ungodly modifications one will hear and read about,that can make any ones head spin...LOL

as many have mentioned the HUDY Manual will help the most for the basics in "General Understanding" it's a great "Primer"

and even BETTER talk to a few of the Fast guys at your track, if they dont wanna help move to the next guy,if they dont wanna help? there not fast "Enough" most of the Quick and Friendy guys been through the "Ringer" so there more Adept to help....
__________________
the "ORIGINAL BLADE"- BLADE LUNA AGAMA A8 EVO/A8T - Ω-OMEGA Racing
RGX Racing Inc. Custom Airbrush Graphics-D&B custom Bodies- VP-PRO
Progressive Engineering(R&D) MONSTER Drink / PRO-MATCH ,OAKLEY Eye Wear
1BLADE1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
The Speed Passion Thread memix Electric On-Road 13331 Yesterday 12:10 PM
The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine Werks Offroad Nitro Engine Forum 9300 03-27-2017 05:54 PM
The Big Locked Thread donitaROSE Manila Racers 89718 03-26-2015 07:17 AM
HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum EVOLUTION Nitro On-Road 11979 06-26-2012 07:57 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:24 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net