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Old 01-28-2011, 06:19 PM   #1
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I am just getting in to this stuff and I have a nice technical question.
Background: Building a Tamiya 801Xt (scratch and dent sale @ Tamiya); 55 year old driver; disabled left arm but my thumb, trigger finger and middle work great. I just cant pick up a phone book. I feel as if I am 35 years old and I can give this sport 100%. Had a RC10 back then so I know the subject.
Question: While building this truggy Tamiya gives me 10 (10,000, or whatever) weight fluids for the 3 differentials. From what I read there are endless combinations for these fluids. I live in the mid-atlantic area of USA and in the the next 3 months I will be learning. The air temperature will be around 65 degees, 18 C at my house and track.
Is it OK to start my learning with 10-10-10?? Or is this way off?
I just got my WERKs B5 moded by "Clockworks" if that helps. I have every other Tamiya fix/upgrade except I am not going the lightweight route. I have read quite a lot of the posts here too.
So anything you folks can suggest for diff's (and shocks?) fluids; for a 55 year old BEGINNER (who is about to become Head Greens-Keeper at Bushwood), in 65 degrees, perfect weather, great track (Nuclear RC of Maryland) would knock my socks off.
Thanks a Million for reading this. And I look forward to a long friendship with RCTECH and its friends.
Chris
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:33 PM   #2
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Welcome to RCTech Chris.. you have made a good choice with the Tamiya and when you have it setup it will work well. The engine choice you went with is one of the best on the market today, and you will have a massive grin on your face when you pull the trigger and see what that B5 can do. As for diff oils it is always a good starting point to run with the Manufacturer has for a setup. Although I have heard of people using 10/10/5 before I havent heard of too many that use 10,000 across the board before. You should have people rolling in here with all kinds of information, but you will have to end up trying different stuff till you find out what works best for you in your truck.

Good luck and happy RCing!!

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Old 01-28-2011, 06:54 PM   #3
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Thanks Jay
The reason I ask today is because I am ready to move on with the build towards the front assemblies and I did not want to leave the back end if I get some input on "rear" fluids. And DAMN those Tamiya 3.5 screws. I got new ones and I gotta get a pretty "stripped-head" one out of ther in the rear.
Chris
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Old 01-28-2011, 07:27 PM   #4
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One tip for preventing stripped heads on new plastic is to use a cap head screw of the same length and diameter to get the threads set. The reason this works is the screw tip is one size larger and thus harder to strip. Afterwards you can remove it and install the appropriate flat or button head screw.
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Old 01-28-2011, 07:31 PM   #5
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Usual truggy diff setup is 7-10-3. I would start here and if the rear is loose then change the rear to 5 but you will loose steering in the corners with 5k. 10-10-10 sounds very stiff.
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:13 AM   #6
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The 801xt likes 10/15/5 in the diffs. There are plenty of set-ups at teamtrf.com. I would suggest getting the Dubro 3.5x25 cap head screws to replace the stock button head ones. p/n dub2274
Good luck, enjoy the truck.
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:33 AM   #7
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Hi Chris,

Firstly welcome and congrats on picking the most exciting hobby around IMHO. I'm pretty new to the hobby myself, been racing club level events for around a year now.

Somethings that I've picked up. Every track is different and everyone has their own unique style so my advice to you would be for you to experiment to find what works for "you" at "your track", not what works for someone else at there track. Start with whatever the recommended base setup is for your car and experiment from there. The trick is to make small changes and do tons of laps to gauge the difference. Don't make massive changes cause you'll be chasing your tail trying to figure out what the hell is going on. Also, I'd recommend you pick a particular brand of oils that you can get consistently and stick with em. Different brands of say 7000 diff oil will behave differently.

I really found the huddy setup giude for 1\8th very useful and still refer to it often when I want to understand what a particular change will do. You can download it from here;

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...5c1b39298064e8
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Old 01-29-2011, 09:49 AM   #8
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Thanks for that link. Oh boy, more reading.
And thanks for the input everyone. You see, I just finished the rear of the 801XT and I wanted to make sure the 10 wt I had in the rear was OK before I move on to the rest of the model. And from what I see here and the set-up sheets over at Team TRF 10 wt in the rear is high. So I need to disassemble the rear and put something lighter (5 wt).
The track I'll use is 40 miles away and I have never even been there. So I just want to show up with a "close enough" set-up on day 1.
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Man View Post
Thanks for that link. Oh boy, more reading.
And thanks for the input everyone. You see, I just finished the rear of the 801XT and I wanted to make sure the 10 wt I had in the rear was OK before I move on to the rest of the model. And from what I see here and the set-up sheets over at Team TRF 10 wt in the rear is high. So I need to disassemble the rear and put something lighter (5 wt).
The track I'll use is 40 miles away and I have never even been there. So I just want to show up with a "close enough" set-up on day 1.
If its nrc in maryland its very loose almost sandy like in the big bank turn and has lots of exposed stone in places. On A dry day bring lots of extra air filters because you will need to change them often. Dont run super soft tires there...the stones just chew them up, run soft or mediums. And if the boards are still sticking out from the big table jump, dont case them....it will bend your chassis for sure.
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Old 01-29-2011, 03:12 PM   #10
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lutz's base set up was 10/10/5
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Old 02-02-2011, 08:10 PM   #11
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Thanx Guys
A couple questions:
sickboy, Where can I order Dubro Part Number: dub2274? A-Main Hobbies? Remember, I don't know much, I'm still learning. I just got the Tamiya replacements which look beefier.
kaptain crash, what do you mean "don't case them"?
I bought some Xray shock oil based on a chart I saw (here) that compared different manufacturers oil "rates". So I got Xray 900 and 600 wt thinking that it was comparable to Losi 60 and 45. But I noticed that chart was from 2005 and a lot has happened since then. Is Xray 900/600 wt oil too thick for my front/rear shocks? (My intentions were to run thicker oil up front).
Yes I will be playing at Nuclear RC in Maryland.
So I am at the differential fill point: I think I'll start at 10, 10, 5
Thanks again
Chris

Last edited by Otto Man; 02-02-2011 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 02-02-2011, 08:45 PM   #12
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lutz's base set up was 10/10/5

thats a weird diff setup

i never heard of that on other truggys for sure.
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Old 02-02-2011, 08:47 PM   #13
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I've never ran a Tamiya or a truggy but here's my .02: If your first instinct was 10 in the rear and they say the pros run 5 in the rear then maybe make a compromise with 7.
In my buggy i can switch between 2,000 to 3,000 in the rear and have an effect so even minor changes make big differences.
Also i can't drive to save my life but i have fun and maybe we'll race together one day, good luck and welcome to your new addiction.
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:00 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
thats a weird diff setup

i never heard of that on other truggys for sure.
OD runs it ... 10-10-4 is most common, i ran 10-15-4 in mine... i know alot of mugen drivers run 25-15-3or4 ... its def not uncommon. ... i heard of people running 15-10-5 on the tamiya buggy (locally)
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmaxey51 View Post
OD runs it ... 10-10-4 is most common, i ran 10-15-4 in mine... i know alot of mugen drivers run 25-15-3or4 ... its def not uncommon. ... i heard of people running 15-10-5 on the tamiya buggy (locally)


thats interesting to me.

oh yea whens the new odonnell truggy coming out i cant wait that long
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