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Old 02-02-2011, 09:29 PM   #16
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thats interesting to me.

oh yea whens the new odonnell truggy coming out i cant wait that long
yeah but when i ran HB i ran 5-10-2, jammin i ran 7-10-3 .... its all what the truggy likes and what you prefer. thicker front gives you more on power steering.

OD is going through some big changes, no time frame as yet. it will be worth the wait though!
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:31 PM   #17
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yeah but when i ran HB i ran 5-10-2, jammin i ran 7-10-3 .... its all what the truggy likes and what you prefer. thicker front gives you more on power steering.

OD is going through some big changes, no time frame as yet. it will be worth the wait though!


il see when it comes out hopelly in march at least .

yea i ran 7,10,3 on a rough track on my 1.0 t i never tried 5k on the front though.
i dont know 10k all around that just sounds heavy but all truggys are diffrent.

but il tell you the truth i rather get a brand of truggy that my track runs though which is mostly losi/associated.
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:35 PM   #18
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il see when it comes out hopelly in march at least .

yea i ran 7,10,3 on a rough track on my 1.0 t i never tried 5k on the front though.
5k in front will make the tires balloon more but it worked great in my HB, turned on a dime... on rough tracks i recommend going up in the center... but dont run 5-15-3, it will burn up the front diff when turning on power, 7-15-3 would prob be best on a rough track, just my opinion.
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:37 PM   #19
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5k in front will make the tires balloon more but it worked great in my HB, turned on a dime... on rough tracks i recommend going up in the center... but dont run 5-15-3, it will burn up the front diff when turning on power, 7-15-3 would prob be best on a rough track, just my opinion.

i, never tried 15k in the center some guy was telling about the tires balloning with "15k" in the center but he must of been talking about if i used 5k on the front it was a during the 2010 outdoor season.

10k in the center does unload quick coming into a corner.
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:41 PM   #20
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i, never tried 15k in the center some guy was telling about the tires balloning with 15k in the center but he must of been talking about if i used 5k on the front it was a during the 2010 outdoor season.
i dont worry to much about ballooning, IMO its not always a bad thing unless its doing it big time. also it depends on tires, i had one tire balloon and another wouldnt, same setup. you just may have to replace the front diff oil more often, but if you run mugen diff oil you wont have to worry about it. i only run mugen diff/shock oil now because it simply last and stays consistent over a long main.
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:51 PM   #21
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i dont worry to much about ballooning, IMO its not always a bad thing unless its doing it big time. also it depends on tires, i had one tire balloon and another wouldnt, same setup. you just may have to replace the front diff oil more often, but if you run mugen diff oil you wont have to worry about it. i only run mugen diff/shock oil now because it simply last and stays consistent over a long main.



i, dont like their lighter weight diff oils it felt like it whould break down during a race inless i had a leaky diff lol .

i know im cheap i use associated and ofna diff oils in my diffs.

i use aka city/ibeams on my truggy i dont think they whould balloon that bad i could be wrong though.

so will 15k will pull more in the turns since it wouldnt unload as much as 10k in the center .

oh, yea if it doesnt rain enough my track does get dry and dusty maybe my track will change the dirt this year though have to see .

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Old 02-02-2011, 10:15 PM   #22
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i, dont like their lighter weight diff oils it felt like it whould break down during a race inless i had a leaky diff lol .

i know im cheap i use associated and ofna diff oils in my diffs.

i use aka city/ibeams on my truggy i dont think they whould balloon that bad i could be wrong though.

so will 15k will pull more in the turns since it wouldnt unload as much as 10k in the center .

oh, yea if it doesnt rain enough my track does get dry and dusty maybe my track will change the dirt this year though have to see .
AE, Ofna, HB and GS oils went in the trash after i tried Mugen oil

AKA iBeams are the worst on ballooning, but i run super soft. i hate city blocks, ran them once and never used them again. i run only VP-Pro tires now...

15k center will give it more snap, real useful in rough.
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:22 PM   #23
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Thanx Guys
A couple questions:
sickboy, Where can I order Dubro Part Number: dub2274? A-Main Hobbies? Remember, I don't know much, I'm still learning. I just got the Tamiya replacements which look beefier.
kaptain crash, what do you mean "don't case them"?
I bought some Xray shock oil based on a chart I saw (here) that compared different manufacturers oil "rates". So I got Xray 900 and 600 wt thinking that it was comparable to Losi 60 and 45. But I noticed that chart was from 2005 and a lot has happened since then. Is Xray 900/600 wt oil too thick for my front/rear shocks? (My intentions were to run thicker oil up front).
Yes I will be playing at Nuclear RC in Maryland.
So I am at the differential fill point: I think I'll start at 10, 10, 5
Thanks again
Chris
Casing a jump is when say there's a double jump, you take the first jump but don't clear the second jump, and instead land with your front tires on the downside and your rear tires on the take-off face. It's like high-siding your SUV when you go 4x4ing. It causes the chassis to flex and could warp it over time.

I'm not too sure about the Tamiya's setup, but if the Xray shock oils are like Mugen oils, 900/600 is very thick, especially in colder weather (below 70F is cold for shock oil imo). Check out Tamiya's website and see what some of the pros are running as far as oils. When I ran my Mugen MBX6T truggy, I was running 500/450 in the shocks. If your track is loose and loamy (soft, sandy-type dirt) then you want a softer suspension setup. Best of luck, and welcome to the RC world! Oh, and please put some tape over the carb/exhaust on that B5 to keep unwanted debris out! Or pick up some of these:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...uel-Inlet-Caps
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:36 PM   #24
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AE, Ofna, HB and GS oils went in the trash after i tried Mugen oil

AKA iBeams are the worst on ballooning, but i run super soft. i hate city blocks, ran them once and never used them again. i run only VP-Pro tires now...

15k center will give it more snap, real useful in rough.


man you must run long mains for that to happen
the longest mains ive raced is about 20 min .

yea i run aka "soft city/ibeams" i dint know they balloon that bad.
yea i will try 7,15,3 on my eight-t if i dont get a new truggy by april which i

so 15k is usefull on a" rough" bumpy" "dry track" and rutty when the track gets a lot rain ?

think i will get one sometime in feb or march.
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Old 02-03-2011, 06:53 PM   #25
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Default TIRES: You Folks Really Help! Thanx

I am swapping around the diff oils (that stuff is a mess) and I think I am on the road to recovery, even before I started.
TIRES: I did a lot of reading and came up with this:
Revolver M2 (Medium) Buggy Tires Mounted on V2 Wheels....Front and Rear
Is this OK for my first day at the track, RC Nuclear in northern Maryland. (it better be, I already have them)
Once again I am the Rooky-Rooky. But I think I will do just fine.
I also got those slick Tamiya chasis braces, hop-up springs and anti-roll bars, and a 14 tooth clutch bell.
I know I sound like a rich brat that gets anything he wants, but I am everything but that. I am a 55 year old brat that gets what the other half says is OK. Not whipped at all.
Chris
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Old 02-03-2011, 06:59 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Otto Man View Post
I am swapping around the diff oils (that stuff is a mess) and I think I am on the road to recovery, even before I started.
TIRES: I did a lot of reading and came up with this:
Revolver M2 (Medium) Buggy Tires Mounted on V2 Wheels....Front and Rear
Is this OK for my first day at the track, RC Nuclear in northern Maryland. (it better be, I already have them)
Once again I am the Rooky-Rooky. But I think I will do just fine.
I also got those slick Tamiya chasis braces, hop-up springs and anti-roll bars, and a 14 tooth clutch bell.
I know I sound like a rich brat that gets anything he wants, but I am everything but that. I am a 55 year old brat that gets what the other half says is OK. Not whipped at all.
Chris





i would get aka med premounts for racing they have good wear rate and are balanced enough and the foams are really good and there light .

like aka med city blocks/ibeams.

gshobby.com has the cheapest of anybody i found for aka premounts buggy and truggy.
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Old 02-03-2011, 07:17 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Otto Man View Post
Thanx Guys
A couple questions:
sickboy, Where can I order Dubro Part Number: dub2274? A-Main Hobbies? Remember, I don't know much, I'm still learning. I just got the Tamiya replacements which look beefier.
kaptain crash, what do you mean "don't case them"?
I bought some Xray shock oil based on a chart I saw (here) that compared different manufacturers oil "rates". So I got Xray 900 and 600 wt thinking that it was comparable to Losi 60 and 45. But I noticed that chart was from 2005 and a lot has happened since then. Is Xray 900/600 wt oil too thick for my front/rear shocks? (My intentions were to run thicker oil up front).
Yes I will be playing at Nuclear RC in Maryland.
So I am at the differential fill point: I think I'll start at 10, 10, 5
Thanks again
Chris
I helped move the big jump thats infront of the drivers stand ....table top...Before is was closer together and many where over jumping the landing, so we opened it up....then they added 2 smaller jumps on the run up to the ...big jump... but the big jump has 2x6's or 2x10's that stick out from each side..was... not sure if they still stick out......and if you case ( land flat on the front edge of the jump) on them...its very very hard on your chassis.
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Old 02-03-2011, 07:22 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Otto Man View Post
I am swapping around the diff oils (that stuff is a mess) and I think I am on the road to recovery, even before I started.
TIRES: I did a lot of reading and came up with this:
Revolver M2 (Medium) Buggy Tires Mounted on V2 Wheels....Front and Rear
Is this OK for my first day at the track, RC Nuclear in northern Maryland. (it better be, I already have them)
Once again I am the Rooky-Rooky. But I think I will do just fine.
I also got those slick Tamiya chasis braces, hop-up springs and anti-roll bars, and a 14 tooth clutch bell.
I know I sound like a rich brat that gets anything he wants, but I am everything but that. I am a 55 year old brat that gets what the other half says is OK. Not whipped at all.
Chris
get M3 revolvers, the M3 revolvers are like mediums on other tires, revolvers are a little harder than other. the softs will last a long time and they never failed me, M2 never worked for me, to hard.
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Old 02-03-2011, 07:33 PM   #29
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get M3 revolvers, the M3 revolvers are like mediums on other tires, revolvers are a little harder than other. the softs will last a long time and they never failed me, M2 never worked for me, to hard.
I like to let ambient temperature dictate tire compound - when it's colder out, run a softer tire like an AKA supersoft. I've found the AKA supersofts outlast a Proline M4 compound by a wide margin.

That's ok that you already have M2s, you'll find that you can never have enough tires in all kinds of different treads and compounds. Ask around at the track and see what the fast guys run. Soft or Supersoft Cityblocks or even Ibeams will work well in loose conditions.
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Old 02-03-2011, 07:51 PM   #30
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I like to let ambient temperature dictate tire compound - when it's colder out, run a softer tire like an AKA supersoft. I've found the AKA supersofts outlast a Proline M4 compound by a wide margin.

That's ok that you already have M2s, you'll find that you can never have enough tires in all kinds of different treads and compounds. Ask around at the track and see what the fast guys run. Soft or Supersoft Cityblocks or even Ibeams will work well in loose conditions.
Unless they added more clay to that track super softs wont last very long there, lots of exposed stone there. And here is a picture of the jump with the boards on each side sticking out, has black pipe over them, but dont help much.
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