boomgagem

iTrader: (45)

Hey guys. I am using the OFNA Truggy Box with a 4S 30C LIPO. I am having problems with the 2 tabs on the spring switch. Everytime I start the box it sparks so badly it's burning the little lip off of them, and eventually won't start.

Is anyone else having this problem? Any ideas on how to fix it? I thought about getting some sort of metal from Home Depot and rigging something up, but wanted to see if anyone else was having this problem. Has happened on 2 boxes now!

brandundecided

iTrader: (9)

Nope, I havent had a problem with mine at all. I too use the blue OFNA box and the actual starter box battery offered by Venom which is a 4s 20c.

petevette

iTrader: (13)

I have the same set up but no issues.

shanty140

iTrader: (5)

I am running the same setup without a problem. I did rewire the starter box and used some better wire, but I don't think that a your problem. Can you post some pictures, maybe we can help better.

jpas

iTrader: (1)

Funny, my Losi box did this and I switched to the OFNA and it works great with the 4S lipo setup.

McFly505

iTrader: (13)

To all those with the same setup, you WILL eventually have the same problem.

Theses starter boxes have little, flimsy contacts that, in stock form, handle ALL of the current the motors pull. Not quite the hot setup, IMO.

I had the same issue, so I made new contacts from copper(1/2" copper tube, smashed flat and cut/dremel'd to fit), but I still wasn't happy with the performance I was getting.

So I took it one step further and added a relay to handle the current.

This setup may be overkill, but it ALWAYS works and it's one less thing to worry about come race day.

And yes, it WILL start a Mack truck....

jay5280

iTrader: (13)

I had the switch issue and ended up taken it out. I just always take my battery out at the end of the day. After my first trip to the Pit I was driving home and had my 2 bump boxes packed away and somehow one of them swithced on and was spinning everytime my 4runner hit a bump. I didn't notice until Flagstaff. Needless to say things were pretty hot but I was def lucky b/c nothing burned up but it could of been really bad. So no switch for me!

triplesix

+1

That's what I use in my Mugen box as well.
The relay handles all the amps drawn by the motors and the old copper contacts only have to deal with the relay. Should last forever and then some more.

boomgagem

iTrader: (45)

Hey Jay, I was actually talking about the spring switch instead of the ON/OFF switch, although I have thought about ditching the ON/OFF switch for that reason.

Thanks guys, thats what I'll do with mine.

rageworks

iTrader: (47)

+1 on using a relay. I re-wired all of my starterboxes with 30/40 amp
relays. I used two 50/60 amp relays on my dual brushless motored Truggy
starter box. Running a minimal amount of amperage thruogh the power and
bump switches will help your starterbox last alot longer.

trickedout

iTrader: (31)

Hey i know exactly where your talking about. what is happening is the little copper peices are getting hot and melting the plastic the mount in, then causing the copper to sink lower, causing a not so good connection. Had the same thing happen to me on an old chrome top box. I took the push down spring part out and pulled the connections off..poped the copper tabs out of the melted plastic and put a washer or two under them when putting them back in..between the copper tab and melted plastic..this will raise the tab and let it make full contact again.. The only thing i can think of that causes this is over amperage or prolonged starting time...either way this will fix it for a while ...maybe try a 20c battery...i know mine melted due to being plugged into a battery charger at 10a charge...

EAT DIRT

I had the same problem with the copper tabs getting hot and melting the plastic that they are mounted to.Of course the box failed a the worst time .My fix was the same as trickedout( with the washers under the cooper tabs).
The relay is a great idea I will be doing this mod to my box