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Old 01-25-2011, 04:27 AM   #1
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Default Team Associated RC8 / RC8T Maintenance Guide / Walk-through

Team Associated RC8 / RC8T Maintenance Guide / Walk-through


So guys, like many of you I purchased mine second hand with no manual.

First thing I did was read this very informative thread, every single page and I highly recommend you do as well.
Team Associated 1/8 scale Truggy Info and Tips

I searched and searched and really didn't find a maintenance guide to this very popular line up. So I decided to create one my self. I plan to update this thread with all the maintenance I do to the car, in my case truggy. I will include step by step photos, tips and info.

Please feel free to correct me or add any info that you think others could use!

Table of contents
Page 1 - Post #1 - Center Diff Maintenance.
Page 1 - Post #5 - Rear Diff Maintenance.
Page 1 - Post #7 - Front Diff Maintenance.


Center Diff Maintenance
Tools needed
5.5mm nut driver
1.5mm hex allen
2.0mm hex allen

1] Slide the air filter around to gain access to the center section.


2] Using the 5.5mm nut driver, remove the nut off the servo horn


3] Use the 1.5mm allen to disassemble the brake assembly.


4] Use the 2.0mm allen to remove the plastic diff cover.


5] Cover being removed


6] Diff is now exposed.


7] Diff cover flipped upside down


8] Pull the diff up and the center axles fall out.


9] Diff removed


10] Diff disassemble


11] Inside the diff, note the paper gasket, its good to double up on these using two during re assemble, this prevents leaks.


12] Spider gears pulled out and being cleaned off with a paper towl. Very little diff oil came out of mine with only a gallon of use. What was in there was discolored and brown, not ideal. Cleanup doesn't have to be perfect.


13] Filling the diff up, here I am using losi 7k oil. Its all I had access too. I recommend supporting AE and using their products when you can.


14] I filled the diff up to were the fluid barely covered the tops of the gears.



Reassemble is simple, just reverse everything. I actually took step by step reassembly photos but I don't think they are needed. Make sure to inspect diff bearings for slop, replace if needed. Also when I reassembled the plastic diff cover, I installed it in 3 separate pieces vs how I removed it [all at once]

Thanks for your time,
Hope this helps someone, next up, rear diff.

DK

Last edited by dkGoodrich.com; 01-26-2011 at 07:59 AM. Reason: Adding images
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:46 AM   #2
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nice!
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:40 PM   #3
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I like your slilde-show. But what about your bearings? When I break down my diffs, I prefer to take an extra step and remove the bearings, clean and oil them with a special applicator that gets the oil down into the bearing assembly.
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1sickGT View Post
nice!
Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt2979 View Post
I like your slilde-show. But what about your bearings? When I break down my diffs, I prefer to take an extra step and remove the bearings, clean and oil them with a special applicator that gets the oil down into the bearing assembly.
Thanks man, My bearings were less than a gallon old and felt smooth with no slop. I didn't feel the need to remove them in my case but I do think its a great idea to do so.
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Old 01-26-2011, 02:54 AM   #5
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Rear Diff Maintenance

Tools needed:
5.5mm nut driver
1.5mm allen hex
2.0mm allen hex
2.5mm allen hex

1] Remove the rear chassis brace


2] Remove these 4 allen hex screws from the bottom rear of the chassis


3] Now you can detach the whole rear assembly


4] Now we can remove the wing, there are 3 allen hex screws


5] These are the other two of the 3 screws


6] Here is the wing removed, I chose to put the screws back into the wing for safe keeping.


7] Remove the sway bar holder 2 screws, remove the holder


8] Remove the two screws holding the hinge pin block, remove the block


9] Remove the last two screws that hold the diff case rear half on


10] Rear diff case removed, diff exposed


11] Pull the diff out, now remove the 4 screws to disassemble the diff.


12] Pull the guts out and clean them, watch the washers, they can fall off


13] Fill it up just like the center diff.


14] I fill all my diffs were the oil barely covers the tops of the spider gears.


Now reverse the process and reassemble. Watch the diff shims, they fall off easy. Inspect the bearings for slop and/or roughness. Just like always during reassembly, make sure to clean each part while your reinstalling it.

Hope this helps!
DK

Last edited by dkGoodrich.com; 01-26-2011 at 07:57 AM.
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:05 AM   #6
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Also I don't think you have to remove the whole rear wheel/suspension assembly from the chassis to remove the rear diff. I just opted to remove this assembly so I could have it all in my hand to work on.

Front diff is next..
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:56 AM   #7
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Front diff maintenance

Tools needed
1.5mm hex allen
2.0mm hex allen

The front diff is easy to do, requires less tools but is the most tricky of all and took the longest for my first time around. Looking back on all the diffs, I could do them in less than 1/4 of the time. I would say 10 mins each.

1] Remove these two allen screws, now slide the front bumper out.


2] Loosen the two rear allen screws a bit, you don't have to remove them all the way.


3] Remove these two allen screws.


4] Remove these two allen screws.


5] Remove these two button allen screws that goto the sway bar holder.


6] You can now flip the holder up that will release the center of the sway bar.


7] Loosen the 4 lower button screws on the shock tower. You do not have to remove them completely.


8] Now flip the sway bar under the front of the chassis. This is needed for access to the diff cover.


9] Now you can wiggle the diff cover out


10] Pull the diff out, and remove the 4 screws


11] Pull the guts out of the diff and clean everything. I normally flip the diff upside down and let it drain out for a little while.


12] Re install the guts and fill with fluid up to the tops of the gears.


Now reverse the process and reassemble. When putting the front diff cover back on, slide the top in first then pop the bottom in. The screws you loosened and didn't remove fully allow for this to happen. Inspect the bearings for slop and/or roughness. Just like always during reassembly, make sure to clean each part while your reinstalling it.
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:13 AM   #8
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Nice work, but I think you are overfilling the diffs which might be causing the leaking.

I fill my diffs to just over the cross pins and I never have leaky diffs even using one gasket.

Don't take this as a critisism, but I have found this to work.

The rear can be done the same as you have done with the front. Only difference is the wing. You can either remove a few screws and just leave the screw in the casing (awkward to put the case back in, but defo quicker) or remove the wing completely.
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:33 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Flipfly View Post
Nice work, but I think you are overfilling the diffs which might be causing the leaking.

I fill my diffs to just over the cross pins and I never have leaky diffs even using one gasket.

Don't take this as a critisism, but I have found this to work.

The rear can be done the same as you have done with the front. Only difference is the wing. You can either remove a few screws and just leave the screw in the casing (awkward to put the case back in, but defo quicker) or remove the wing completely.
That's funny because I thought he was not filling them enough! That's also NOT criticism towards anyone's idea, but I guess I've been WAY over-filling mine!! (I normally fill it so full that I have to wipe the excess off after I put it back together!!) Granted, mine have never leaked, but I also tend to rebuild them every race or two (depending on the intensity of the races).
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:43 PM   #10
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That's funny because I thought he was not filling them enough! That's also NOT criticism towards anyone's idea, but I guess I've been WAY over-filling mine!! (I normally fill it so full that I have to wipe the excess off after I put it back together!!) Granted, mine have never leaked, but I also tend to rebuild them every race or two (depending on the intensity of the races).
I don't really know how much of a difference it makes, but everything I've ever been told/read has always said to fill to the top of the cross pins.
I suppose if you do them the same every time it shouldn't matter

No point in filling them to the point of it all seeping out as you seal them though as all you are doing is wasting oil
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flipfly View Post
I don't really know how much of a difference it makes, but everything I've ever been told/read has always said to fill to the top of the cross pins.
I suppose if you do them the same every time it shouldn't matter

No point in filling them to the point of it all seeping out as you seal them though as all you are doing is wasting oil
I don't waste much, but yeah....kind of pointless if that's not what I need to do! All the more reason that I'm glad the OP decided to make this thread. As a rookie, I'm trying to make sure that I'm doing the right things to keep me on the track....no need to OVERdo something that's going to counter my efforts!

Thanks for the heads-up!!
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Old 01-26-2011, 01:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt2979 View Post
I don't waste much, but yeah....kind of pointless if that's not what I need to do! All the more reason that I'm glad the OP decided to make this thread. As a rookie, I'm trying to make sure that I'm doing the right things to keep me on the track....no need to OVERdo something that's going to counter my efforts!

Thanks for the heads-up!!
Your manuel says to fill to the top of the gears in all three diffs.
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Old 01-26-2011, 01:37 PM   #13
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Your manuel says to fill to the top of the gears in all three diffs.
:werd: And thats how i fill mine. Never any leaks either.
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:49 PM   #14
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Great post, I'm sure it will help allot of people out. May I offer a few suggestions though? The diff. removal steps you showed are great if your in a hurry at the track but if your not rushed and have the time I think its better to remove the whole diff. housing allowing you to clean everything much better and also check your pinion and bearings as well. In regards to the center diff. IMO its much easier and faster to remove the throttle servo horn and pop off the carb. linkage and take off the top plate with all the linkage intact. You wont have to reset all your brake and throttle linkage. I must disagree with not cleaning the diff completely out and not disassembling it fully. If you want to decrease the chance of leakage break them all the way down, replace the orings and clean clean clean. A clean truggy is a happy truggy! Good luck and looking forward to more maint. tips.
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Old 01-27-2011, 05:36 AM   #15
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Thanks everyone for their replies!

Honestly guys I don't mind others tips and suggestions! Keep in mind I'm new to the rc8t and am open to other ideas and ways to maintain this truggy!

I will pull one of the diff housings back out soon and disassemble fully and snap some pictures of howto remove the bearings, cases, o rings, etc for everyone wanting to take those extra steps.

Also I recommended doubling up on the gaskets just to ensure no leaks. Personally, with this guide, I just reused the single gaskets that were already there and had no leaks filling the fluid to the tops of the gears. Keep in mind, as I recommend replacing the gaskets everytime (and using two). My truck was less than a gallon old and I didn't not have anything but extra 7k fluid on hand.

So far I am amazed at how much smoother the diffs feel and am pretty stoked about doing it again. Next time I will be more thorough in inspection and getting the diff cases and guts spot less.

Thanks again for everyones interest!
Dk
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