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Old 06-01-2011, 01:32 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by aptyk88 View Post
can i do this on my truggy also or will the gears strip?
Does anyone know why most of the popular set ups with the car run lighter shock oil in the front?
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Old 06-01-2011, 02:03 PM   #32
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I ran this setup this past weekend. Wow. Like he said: easy to drive; works well.
I know this is the D8 thread but has anyone tried this setup on a VE8? I would think it would cross over pretty well since the front and rear sections are identical....Also, this setup i would imagine is with the stock plastic 1 degree rear hubs ( 3 inboard and 1 outboard)?
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Old 06-01-2011, 02:23 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by bjonesABE View Post
Does anyone know why most of the popular set ups with the car run lighter shock oil in the front?
I have also wondered about this, i guess its a HB thing. Also I've heard that you also want more front brake than rear brake
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Old 06-01-2011, 03:55 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by omarwashington View Post
I have also wondered about this, i guess its a HB thing. Also I've heard that you also want more front brake than rear brake
Brake bias is a personal thing. Never heard of running more front brake. Problem I see is that if the front locks under braking, you lose steering. More rear brake gives the ability to swing the tail around.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:33 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by ovalracer1m View Post
I know this is the D8 thread but has anyone tried this setup on a VE8? I would think it would cross over pretty well since the front and rear sections are identical....Also, this setup i would imagine is with the stock plastic 1 degree rear hubs ( 3 inboard and 1 outboard)?
You will need to make sure the weight distribution is similar to a nitro D8..
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:14 PM   #36
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You will need to make sure the weight distribution is similar to a nitro D8..
thanks for the response. correct if im wrong but thinking where the nitro motor is, the battery is in the same location and similar wieght. Where the fuel tank is (full of fuel) would weight similar to a brushless motor (may be a bit heavier). And on the other side of the car the servo is in the same spot and radio box. The receiver pack is in the same spot as the ESC. Sounds like it should be pretty close. I will agree that the overall weight of the VE8 maybe heavier with the thick plastic chassis. May just have to go up in oil wieght a little.. I will try it out this weekend.
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Old 06-01-2011, 09:16 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by ovalracer1m View Post
I know this is the D8 thread but has anyone tried this setup on a VE8? I would think it would cross over pretty well since the front and rear sections are identical....Also, this setup i would imagine is with the stock plastic 1 degree rear hubs ( 3 inboard and 1 outboard)?
Pretty similar the Ve8 will be heavier, but thats the biggest difference so you may wanna go up 5wt. or so on shocks
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:05 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by ovalracer1m View Post
thanks for the response. correct if im wrong but thinking where the nitro motor is, the battery is in the same location and similar wieght. Where the fuel tank is (full of fuel) would weight similar to a brushless motor (may be a bit heavier). And on the other side of the car the servo is in the same spot and radio box. The receiver pack is in the same spot as the ESC. Sounds like it should be pretty close. I will agree that the overall weight of the VE8 maybe heavier with the thick plastic chassis. May just have to go up in oil wieght a little.. I will try it out this weekend.

Very intrestead, please post or PM me what you think.
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Old 06-10-2011, 01:32 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Greg B View Post
I struggled alot with the D8 for quite sometime. I spoke with Josh Alton and came up with small areas to work with that were overlooked by many.

Front
Shocks- Outer hole on tower, outer hole on arm.
Camber link- Lower hole on tower, inner hole on hub.
Shock oil- 400 with 1.4 pistons.
Shock spring- Gray 60mm with long truggy ends. Cut off 3mm on the long truggy shock end. Total length 103mm.
Diff oil- Remove the shims from the internal gears. Diffs are too tight. 5K oil.

Rear
Shocks- Outer hole on tower, outer hole on arm.
Camber link- inner bottom hole on tower, inner hole on hub.
Hub Position- upper hole if traction is present. Lower hole if traction is needed, hubs in forward position.
Diff oil- Remove shims from the internal gears. 3k oil.
Long shocks, Yellow 68mm spring. 110 length. 350 oil, 1.2 piston.

Center diff - 7k

Ride height- 28mm front, 29mm rear
Camber- -2 front and rear.
Sway Bar- 2.4 front, 2.8 rear. If more rear traction is needed, go to 2.5 rear bar. Mugen or Odonnell bar fits fine.

This setup is the easiest to drive that I have found. Car works well.
i have just got a second hand D8 and the set up it has is real twitchy and hard to drive so i will run this and see what it is like.
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:32 AM   #40
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ooops, double post

Last edited by Mark _australia; 06-28-2011 at 02:44 AM.
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:28 AM   #41
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Hi guys, I've been reading this thread intently as I have a D8 coming

I guess all these setups are for your dirt tracks over there.... does anyone have a good setup for grass? I guess it would be about as bumpy as an average to rough dirt track over there.

PS: - I haven't seen a D8 yet but why are we gluing the diff cases down to the chassis with silicone? Aren't they sealed like all others?
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:03 AM   #42
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If your car is not responding well, then just the setup on page one of the thread. It works great on dirt but I have no idea how it will handle on grass. Your best bet is to buy a lawn mower for the grass
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:03 AM   #43
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Putting sealant on the diff cases is optional. I don't use that method and I haven't had any problems with dirt getting in the cases.
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:14 PM   #44
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Thanks RCelik

I seem to recall from grass racing many years ago it was stiffer springs, lower ride height, stiffer swaybars to minimise traction rolls and virtually no droop.

But that was a long time ago so looking to confirm my fuzzy recollection and also to get some numbers / hole positions specifically for the D8
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Old 06-21-2011, 07:14 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark _australia View Post
Thanks RCelik

I seem to recall from grass racing many years ago it was stiffer springs, lower ride height, stiffer swaybars to minimise traction rolls and virtually no droop.

But that was a long time ago so looking to confirm my fuzzy recollection and also to get some numbers / hole positions specifically for the D8
On the grass I run pretty much the same setup as dirt. 5-7-3 diffs, 35wt shock oils, 1.4 pistons. Gray springs front, white rear. Long camber links front and rear. Reduce rear droop at start of day and increase as grass gets ripped up and surface gets bumpy throughout the day.
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