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Old 03-09-2011, 09:27 PM   #16
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cool, thanks! anyone have other tips? not really a tip, but here's one. when building the bulk heads, don't tighten the bottom screws down too much, or it will cause the lower arms to bind. back off a little until you get the perfect clearance.
Never had that happen. I'd suggest trimming the arm a little before leaving my diff case less than tight.
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Old 03-09-2011, 09:45 PM   #17
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Never had that happen. I'd suggest trimming the arm a little before leaving my diff case less than tight.
If you tighten them fully they do bind a bit. Its hard to notice when you have everything installed like shocks. But when free it binds iff to tight. It dont hurt to leave them a bit loose which doesn't make them loose. They are still sealed tight.
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:04 PM   #18
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yeah, it's less than half a turn. especially if you use an electric driver, you may over tighten a little.
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Old 03-13-2011, 06:55 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Greg B View Post
I struggled alot with the D8 for quite sometime. I spoke with Josh Alton and came up with small areas to work with that were overlooked by many.

Front
Shocks- Outer hole on tower, outer hole on arm.
Camber link- Lower hole on tower, inner hole on hub.
Shock oil- 400 with 1.4 pistons.
Shock spring- Gray 60mm with long truggy ends. Cut off 3mm on the long truggy shock end. Total length 103mm.
Diff oil- Remove the shims from the internal gears. Diffs are too tight. 5K oil.

Rear
Shocks- Outer hole on tower, outer hole on arm.
Camber link- inner bottom hole on tower, inner hole on hub.
Hub Position- upper hole if traction is present. Lower hole if traction is needed, hubs in forward position.
Diff oil- Remove shims from the internal gears. 3k oil.
Long shocks, Yellow 68mm spring. 110 length. 350 oil, 1.2 piston.

Center diff - 7k

Ride height- 28mm front, 29mm rear
Camber- -2 front and rear.
Sway Bar- 2.4 front, 2.8 rear. If more rear traction is needed, go to 2.5 rear bar. Mugen or Odonnell bar fits fine.

This setup is the easiest to drive that I have found. Car works well.
I must say after reading this post i thought removing the shims was a really bad idea, BUT i infact completely set my buggy up as quoted above and found that the buggy was really nice to drive, some small tuning to do for my driving style but the buggy was really planted, i left the shims in the centre diff because it was not quoted to remove them in the centre above.

Im heading of to the nationals in two days time so i will post back more feedback on this set up after the 4 day event......thanks
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Old 03-13-2011, 10:32 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg B View Post
I struggled alot with the D8 for quite sometime. I spoke with Josh Alton and came up with small areas to work with that were overlooked by many.

Front
Shocks- Outer hole on tower, outer hole on arm.
Camber link- Lower hole on tower, inner hole on hub.
Shock oil- 400 with 1.4 pistons.
Shock spring- Gray 60mm with long truggy ends. Cut off 3mm on the long truggy shock end. Total length 103mm.
Diff oil- Remove the shims from the internal gears. Diffs are too tight. 5K oil.

Rear
Shocks- Outer hole on tower, outer hole on arm.
Camber link- inner bottom hole on tower, inner hole on hub.
Hub Position- upper hole if traction is present. Lower hole if traction is needed, hubs in forward position.
Diff oil- Remove shims from the internal gears. 3k oil.
Long shocks, Yellow 68mm spring. 110 length. 350 oil, 1.2 piston.

Center diff - 7k

Ride height- 28mm front, 29mm rear
Camber- -2 front and rear.
Sway Bar- 2.4 front, 2.8 rear. If more rear traction is needed, go to 2.5 rear bar. Mugen or Odonnell bar fits fine.

This setup is the easiest to drive that I have found. Car works well.
I ran this setup this past weekend. Wow. Like he said: easy to drive; works well.
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:21 AM   #21
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I must say after reading this post i thought removing the shims was a really bad idea, BUT i infact completely set my buggy up as quoted above and found that the buggy was really nice to drive, some small tuning to do for my driving style but the buggy was really planted, i left the shims in the centre diff because it was not quoted to remove them in the centre above.

Im heading of to the nationals in two days time so i will post back more feedback on this set up after the 4 day event......thanks
so how did this event go? I'm looking around for something I can use for a hybrid carpet/dirt track that's pretty rough. thanks
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Old 05-11-2011, 01:35 PM   #22
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I ran this setup this past weekend. Wow. Like he said: easy to drive; works well.
just to confirm is this setup also good for Hara edition D8?
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Old 05-11-2011, 02:43 PM   #23
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On the hara you can run the same setup. Might want to try lighter shock oil as the Hara is lighter. If you can't feel the difference between oils then just run it as well.

The big change is the long front shock ends in the outer hole, much easier to drive consistently.
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Old 05-31-2011, 12:18 PM   #24
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I ran this setup this past weekend. Wow. Like he said: easy to drive; works well.
Im a little confused with the camber link holes. When you say "inner holes on tower and hub", which holes are they exactly? I can justify it going both ways so im getting confused with it.

Thanks
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Old 05-31-2011, 01:16 PM   #25
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Im a little confused with the camber link holes. When you say "inner holes on tower and hub", which holes are they exactly? I can justify it going both ways so im getting confused with it.

Thanks

I believe he is reffering to the bottom inner hole on the rear shock tower.
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Old 05-31-2011, 08:33 PM   #26
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Why use the outer holes for the front shocks on the arms?
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:40 AM   #27
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Why use the outer holes for the front shocks on the arms?
outer holes will make the car more stable. plus if you run inner holes on front arms and outer on rear you weight transfer will be more towards the rear causing noise high of jumps ( unless you find the right pistons and shock oil to balance it out)
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Old 06-01-2011, 09:20 AM   #28
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do you guys take the shims out of the center diff?
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Old 06-01-2011, 10:29 AM   #29
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do you guys take the shims out of the center diff?

I left my center diff shims in place, only removed the front and rear shims.
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Old 06-01-2011, 11:56 AM   #30
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can i do this on my truggy also or will the gears strip?
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