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Old 12-27-2010, 04:17 PM   #76
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I'm fifty-five, and although it's not exactly the same as expo....I set my steering speed at 50-60%....60-70% return.

No one knows this when they drive my truck...but they are in more control, and they mention it.
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Old 12-27-2010, 09:08 PM   #77
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I will give it a try in the afternoon and see what happens.. maybe it will help
but on the other end.
I have always run fast servos and I imagine you guys do also... So if you are turning your exponential down so much, why wast money and use servos that have a .9-.11 response with over 175 ounces of torque or above? I may be totally wrong but I do beleive you can set your car up to obain the less twitchy feeling on the straights and through the corners. I guess this is why I am wondering about the age as steering speed settings. Maybe its another tuning material that could make me faster and that would be cool. Like i said I always run my steering speeds as fast as my equipment will let them run.
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Old 12-28-2010, 02:56 AM   #78
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Standard expo is 0, which is linear steering. We just add a bit of expo. So the difference isn't that big, but it is noticeable (just make sure you use the right expo - if you add expo in the wrong direction, your steering will be much quicker in the initial steering, which is quite the opposite of what we want :P).
So our steering is still quick - if we yank out that steering to full steering, the speed of the servo will still be quick. Running a bit of expo just makes it easier to make the smaller corrections.

While this is very effective in onroad, I do feel that we don't do a lot of small corrections in offroad, and less expo might do it (lets say age/2).

Using the age is just a rule of thumb. We all drive differently, and because of that need different settings.
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Old 12-28-2010, 03:09 AM   #79
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I looked in my transmitter and I have 0% expo on my steer. I used to drive with 6% tho. I think I changed it when I switched transmitters.
But I use 40% expo on the throttle and 15% on the brakes (but I drive 1/8th scale brushless)
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Old 12-28-2010, 03:38 AM   #80
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Keep in mind guys, most radios use negative ( -) expo to smooth it out near centre, and spektrum dx3r use's positive expo to smooth it out, just do some testing with your radio as not all use negative expo and you might just be making it more twitchy., if unsure, just dial in heaps of expo (like 80% positive)and turn the wheel from centre just a little bit and you should be able to tell, then try 80% negative and compare it.
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Old 12-28-2010, 05:12 AM   #81
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0 expo
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Old 12-28-2010, 05:17 AM   #82
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-25% . Always have especially when i ran touring cars making national A finals. . . Smooth is fast . Each to their own at the end of the day
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Old 12-29-2010, 09:14 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXRC8racer View Post
Im really looking to step up my game for the 2011 racing season in 1/8 offroad. What do you recommend in improving one's lap times on the track?

Is it understanding car/truck setups more? And able to adjust your car/truck to track conditions.

Equipment i.e Radio system, tyres, car brands?

Or is it practice?
I've been racing in SoCal for a year now, and I haven't moved up to racing expert class because around here that means at any given time you're racing with Cavalieri, Maifield, Drake, Kortz, Cody King, Chad Bradley, or any other insanely fast sponsored driver. I am getting progressively faster, and after talking to a lot of the fast guys, here's what I've learned.

First make sure your car is built correctly. Suspension works properly and doesn't bind. Transmission is smooth. Bearings are smooth. Steering, throttle, and brake are all set up perfectly. Diffs filled correctly. Everything is symmetric left to right. For big races the pros are meticulous with their cars. I just saw some build tips videos put up by Associated driver Brandon Melton which are really good for any 1/8 scale car here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlcO-..._order&list=UL

Next, setup matters no matter what anyone else says. Find a setup that is dialed for you. A setup that is comfortable to drive. Not too aggressive and not overly neutral where you can't push the car to its limits. For people who think setup is not important, a quote in the video above sums it up. "You wouldn't teach someone to play football by throwing a football without laces around would you?" If your setup and equipment are wrong, it will make your learning curve that much slower. If your setup isn't dialed than make small and single changes at a time until your setup is dialed, and make notes of what each change does. And like everyone else is saying, tires are the most important part of the setup.

After getting your car built and setup correctly, practice a lot, but practice with purpose. If your goal for practice is to have fun and bash, then have fun and bash. If your goal is to learn a certain fast line, then get that line dialed in. Stay on the fast line and keep going faster until you are at your limit. If you go past that limit, you will start to overdrive your car and lap times will get slower.

If there is something wrong with your car, stop running and fix it. Don't crash!! If you do crash, instead of getting upset, always stay positive and figure out why you crashed and find a way to fix it.

Once your skill improves you may find new limits and you may need to squeeze a little more out of your car. In which case go back to the setup step above and start again.
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Old 12-29-2010, 10:58 AM   #84
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I used to run exponential. I got faster by taking it out.
One of the Pros here told me to take it out, I got faster as well.

Im not sure as to how this is a TIP for a new driver to get faster. So being age 34 I should just set it to that? ? ? ?
I have raced on-road to, I have found that nothing is transferable over to offorad..... thats just me.
Im with Skinny.....Makes no since.
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:14 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by token View Post
One of the Pros here told me to take it out, I got faster as well.

Im not sure as to how this is a TIP for a new driver to get faster. So being age 34 I should just set it to that? ? ? ?
I have raced on-road to, I have found that nothing is transferable over to offorad..... thats just me.
Im with Skinny.....Makes no since.
I haven't run onroad so I don't know... but I suspect it is different enough that a lot of things don't transfer over.

I know of an onroad guy who was very fast who struggles with truggy. He's about my speed.
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:27 PM   #86
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If you constantly end up around 35th place or worse, get a Durango!!! you will be fast enough for 34th!!!

Easy way to get quicker instantly!!!
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:39 PM   #87
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Thanks for all tips guys!! I really did not think this thread would have went this far! There is so much usefull info in this thread for anyone to read! By anymeans im not a rookie driver I have been racing for about 4 years now and this past year being my 1st to travel to any races and really race out doors! My local track is indoor so I get to race nitro year round but I know its really important to practice outdoors as well to get to the next level that I want to be at! I have had the the fast guys drive my car and setup is good, I really think its a constant practice once or twice a week just to get really good on depth preception and timing and able to correct my mistakes better and you gain all that in prectice!!
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Old 12-29-2010, 02:23 PM   #88
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Expo Depends on the servo. But I run about -25% expo on nearly everything controlled by a servo except throttle and brake.

Some Servos can be jumpy. I just want expo to smooth them out. Makes adjustments in the air, straight, and sweepers smoother. Making a minor course adjustment when the car is barely touching the ground from a hill requires a gentle touch as well.

Most of our steering inputs are large and blow right through the area expo influences anyway.
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Old 12-29-2010, 02:52 PM   #89
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Some things that I've been trying lately:
-watching the pros at big races posted on youtube. They often go super slow, allmost a dead stop, staying really tight. The Roar nats and some of the worlds are posted.

-when in doubt go in slow and tight. The turns that need a different line than this default tight line become obvious quickly. But only if you take tight slow practice laps, then see where going wide or straght through a S section can be helpful.

-oddly sometimes from so many people going in tight and slow, a turn that takes a more "real" racing line will become grippier from everyone going in low. Sometimes the slow lines bedcome the fast lines as racers dig them up, they start to berm or rubber gets layed down

-TAG body spray on tires

-0 crashes. Zero, none. You get marshalled you lose.

-seems overall that pro drivers just have more patience. Spots where I thought they'd jump big, they often just jump slam on the brakes and jump short twice.

-use the brakes before every tight turn, don't coast in, at least tap them to transfer weight forward. I saw a few vids that pan to the drivers stand. Pro drivers have crazy trigger finger movements. I had no idea they hit the brakes so often.

-"you have to give to get" Barrowed from real road racing. means if you give up speed on entry you can get it back on exit, and vice versa.


Maybe I'll mix in some more 1/12th scale carpet for next winter.
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Old 12-29-2010, 03:09 PM   #90
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everything zero defect says....

for the record I usually set expo 5% steering, 30-60% throttle. the throttle adjusted for traction conditions. thats off road, onroad flip the steering and throttle settings.

Natively the throttle linkage will have a positive expo built in, you need to add negative on the radio just to make things somewhat linear.
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