johnny t

iTrader: (10)

Probably the same reason why josh wheeler does not like Xray shocks. they suck as bad as odonnell shocks.


Mcion, sounds to me whats happening is the shocks bladder is deforming after a while and then gaining composure after some rest. hence why alot of people do the foam to support the bladder.

Also be sure to check dampening and ride height at the actual temperature of the track. RC car shocks do not really heat up with use. the fronts will assume the ambient air temp and the rears will get 8-10 degrees F higher from engine heat.

In the winter for us the car will be 65'F in the pits and the track will be 30-40'F. I will actually try to bring my car out early before a heat if only to get the shock to cool down to race temps. otherwise I have two different cars from start to 3 minutes later.

I would also add if your rebound is changing throughout a run as your bladder can't handle it. set up your shocks dead with no rebound. at least things things should stay more consistent.

mcion

iTrader: (32)

That is exactly what I had in mind, 0 rebound to keep car consistent which was my reason for the question.

mcion

iTrader: (32)

Kyosho shocks work using the kyosho mounts, and I used the shock ends off the Xray shocks, which make the shocks longer. I get about 119 - 120 droop rear, and about 103 - 104 max droop front. The pistons are tapered downward. I was running associated rear black springs and kyosho front springs. Car was actually pretty dialed until like the 10th minute of the main, then the rear end was just loose. I think Johnny T hit the jackpot on what the issue was, I just never built a shock with 0% rebound always 100% Maybe that is why most setup sheets I see show only about 25% to 50% rebound that way you dont feel the inconsistency too much in a main.

I was wondering if using the foam do I need to drill a hole. The new bladders for serpent shocks are pretty solid just squish in and there is no hole so they just absorb impact and go back to normal. Only 1 way to find out.