Boostcreepr

iTrader: (10)

Well i traded my stock 3905 Emaxx for this baby.. got tons of spares toolboxes of parts and tools a whole racing setup. The guy said it was a race truggy and alot of stuff had been upgraded on it. All i know is that it has an RB S3 and a JP-1 Pipe.. can anyone tell if anything else on this truggy is upgraded before i start looking for upgrades for the suspension or chassis. Thanks!

MattP

iTrader: (440)

The only aftermarket pieces I see on the whole truck are the rear hinge pin plates, rear mud guards and the shock boots. Looks to be a KH or M2C rear setup since it's black.

Boostcreepr

iTrader: (10)

is there a way to tell if this was the race roller? and where should i start as far as upgrades for steering and stability?

Dr. Evil

iTrader: (12)

Hmm. I know it's not what you asked, but, I think I might upgrade the steering servo. Image is blurry, but, If that is a futaba S3305 or S3306, I think you would be better off with something that has these specs.

Servo speed: .13 or faster
Servo Torque: 250oz. in. or Higher (stronger)

That servo is either .20 on speed Way Way Way to slow for steering.
Also might be around .15 if the S3305. S3306 has enough torque,but too slow.
S3305 doesn't have enough torque.

This will make the truggy easier to drive especially on a tight track. I you keep the servo, you will have to pre steer your corners in order to compensate for the lack of servo speed.

MattP

iTrader: (440)

It has the race roller chassis and shock towers and aluminum shock caps so most likely it is a race roller.

RTR T 1.0's had black plastic shock caps with a silver chassis and thin silver shock towers.

jwm2

iTrader: (5)

Looks like you got a great deal on that setup. I'm sure you will enjoy it much more than the monster truck you had. Theres nothing more fun than putting down laps on a track against other racers. Expecially if you outrun some of the 2.0's

Boostcreepr

iTrader: (10)

ive accually replaced the servo with one that came with the truck its a JR Z550 here are the specs.

Basic Information
Modulation: Analog
Torque: 4.8V:51.0 oz-in (3.67 kg-cm)
6.0V:62.0 oz-in (4.46 kg-cm)

Speed: 4.8V:0.21 sec/60°
6.0V:0.17 sec/60°

Weight: 1.47 oz (41.7 g)
Dimensions: Length:1.52 in (38.6 mm)
Width:0.73 in (18.5 mm)
Height:1.32 in (33.5 mm)
Motor Type: 3-pole
Gear Type: ? (add)
Rotation/Support: Single Bearing

jwm2

iTrader: (5)

Thats a really weak servo, in fact it wouldn't even be good enough for throttle duty. For throttle you need at least 100+oz and for steering you need 200+oz.

Boostcreepr

iTrader: (10)

guess ill be in the market for a new servo.. suggestions?

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

+1. Truggies are heavy and you need some torque to slow them, and the tires are heavy and need some torque to turn them. Look into the Futaba servos, they had some good prices not long ago. Hitec, Savox, Ace, also all make good servos. Servos just aren't a place to save money, you're going to have to bite the bullet and buy good ones. Might look for used ones if money is an issue.

Can't see your pics here at work, I'll look at them later at the house. Here's a link to a thread where some of us are still running the 1.0 truggy. Going to race mine this weekend as a matter of fact.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...t-1-0-a-6.html

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

If you want to keep costs down, look at the Futaba s9405 for throttle (100 oz, .11 transit) for $65. Futaba BLS 452 for steering (194 oz, .14 transit) for $99. Those are good servos at a good price. There are even better servos, but you know what the man said. "Speed costs money, how fast do you wanna go?"

steve307b

iTrader: (23)

On Ebay you can get Hitec 7955's 333oz @ 6v I think for around $100.00 to your door. These will last for many gallons. Lower spec servo's wont last and will not turn wheels quickly.

tc5 man

i have, a eight-t 1.0 i ran it the whole season its not a bad truck for club level racing.. its competive make sure you run 1/2 wheelhexs with 0 offset rims.

to make it stable but i whould actually use the stock wheel hexs on the front because it seems like using the 1/2 hexs on the front takes a lot of the turn in away and creates a little push .


and, i do recommend ethier getting mc2 outer hidge pins for the rear hubs or the 2.0 rear hubs/ 2.0 outer pins.. because the 1.0 t outer rear hubs will bend for sure.

and also for less slop in the steering the 2.0 steering racks are way better.

i would remmend getting alum rear hubs later because i kept on haveing my inner bearings go bad on the 1.0 plastic rear hubs weird .


but if you race on a rough track a tft flex chassis for the 1.0 t is a must it makes it easier to drive and you can push it harder and more grip !

other than that its a good truggy no shims to worry about ethier on the diff gears !

it drives good just pm me if you have any more questions.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

Looks like the only upgrades on that truck are the rear toe blocks(m2c I believe, but not sure) and the arm guards. I'd recommend ditching those crappy ofna orange shock wiper things. They are terrible. Get some losi boots on there ASAP.