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Old 11-15-2010, 02:48 PM   #46
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looks like a strong engine but not sure the price worries me. alot of cooling heads cost the same but i would be musc more encuraged if i knew the specs like size, power, so on.
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Old 11-15-2010, 03:05 PM   #47
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is this the discount rc that people keep talking about?http://www.discountrchobbystore.com/
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Old 11-15-2010, 03:16 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by ele_to_nitro View Post
looks like a strong engine but not sure the price worries me. alot of cooling heads cost the same but i would be musc more encuraged if i knew the specs like size, power, so on.
Don't even consider such a cheap engine.

You said "One of my only faults is that I always have to be ahead and I always have to have the best system combo what ever that money can buy -----."

Sometimes you have to walk before you run. Check the Nitro Off Road engine threads here. Go to the AMainhobbies.com engine section and filter by price. Pick a midrange engine and don't go totally by specs.
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Old 11-15-2010, 03:22 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by ele_to_nitro View Post
is this the discount rc that people keep talking about?http://www.discountrchobbystore.com/



go to yahoo and type it in and click on the 2 page and its the secound one where it says discount r/c toys.

i had to look for it on yahoo to get the right one.

you have a pm my me.
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Old 11-15-2010, 03:30 PM   #50
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Don't even consider such a cheap engine.

You said "One of my only faults is that I always have to be ahead and I always have to have the best system combo what ever that money can buy -----."

Sometimes you have to walk before you run. Check the Nitro Off Road engine threads here. Go to the AMainhobbies.com engine section and filter by price. Pick a midrange engine and don't go totally by specs.
A lot of the specs listed for the engines on shopping sites do not match up to the HP and torque numbers when put on the dyno...

I don't think you need anything special for an engine when starting out. No sense in blowing up a $500 mill learning to tune or break-in. I'd pick up one around $200. The Go's can be bought as a kit with pipe ( a big expense for some engines) for just over $200. The O'donnell is a nice mill for around $200 sometimes cheaper, the R2 pipe which is made for it is around 70-80. The Werks line are very popular and run great also for around $200. The pipe for the Werks is another $100.

Don't go cheap on any electronics tho! Get the best controller, receiver, and servo's you can afford! You can thank me later on that.... I think people took me wrong earlier.... I LOVE TRUGGIES! Just make sure you have some turnout in your area if you want to race them... It sux watching 10 buggies run then running in a class with 2 other truggies for the main... Just saying....

Good call on the RC8T CE tho! I think it's an awesome truck. Very strong and smooth driving. Get some shock standoffs and rod ends for when you wreck hard (cheap and easy to replace, they break so other things don't) and go have some fun! Good Luck

Rich
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:08 PM   #51
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Whats the differance other then body, wheels and tires? I just got into rc a couple years ago and love it. I started the same way most others did i bought a traxxas car at my local hobbie store then bought a nitro rustler (expecting more then what i got) it doesn't handle very well due to power. Within a couple more years i plan on buying a buggy or truggy. I like the look and good reviews of the losi 8ight 2.0 and the team associated RC8T, but whats the differance if i'm going to get into the sport? Any 2 cents will be appreciated.
thanks,
Zach
I didnt read the whole thread but the majority of us have sat in the spot your in at one point. Whatever car truggy or bug, associated, losi what have you that you build take your time making wise choices with engine and electronics to get the best products at best prices. Wherever the closest track is to you hit that thing up and hang out. Associated and Losi have great product support so you really cannot go wrong with either. So personally as o lot of people have stated in threads before...best choice would come down to what brand of cars are mostly found in your area..tracks, lhs etc.... And i have to say that this can almost change over night although meeting local racers etc...can help understand. good luck, mark
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:09 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Do-Over View Post
A lot of the specs listed for the engines on shopping sites do not match up to the HP and torque numbers when put on the dyno...

I don't think you need anything special for an engine when starting out. No sense in blowing up a $500 mill learning to tune or break-in. I'd pick up one around $200. The Go's can be bought as a kit with pipe ( a big expense for some engines) for just over $200. The O'donnell is a nice mill for around $200 sometimes cheaper, the R2 pipe which is made for it is around 70-80. The Werks line are very popular and run great also for around $200. The pipe for the Werks is another $100.

Don't go cheap on any electronics tho! Get the best controller, receiver, and servo's you can afford! You can thank me later on that.... I think people took me wrong earlier.... I LOVE TRUGGIES! Just make sure you have some turnout in your area if you want to race them... It sux watching 10 buggies run then running in a class with 2 other truggies for the main... Just saying....

Good call on the RC8T CE tho! I think it's an awesome truck. Very strong and smooth driving. Get some shock standoffs and rod ends for when you wreck hard (cheap and easy to replace, they break so other things don't) and go have some fun! Good Luck

Rich
sounds like you nailed
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Old 11-15-2010, 05:13 PM   #53
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glow igniters?
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Old 11-15-2010, 05:30 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by ele_to_nitro View Post
Whats the differance other then body, wheels and tires? I just got into rc a couple years ago and love it. I started the same way most others did i bought a traxxas car at my local hobbie store then bought a nitro rustler (expecting more then what i got) it doesn't handle very well due to power. Within a couple more years i plan on buying a buggy or truggy. I like the look and good reviews of the losi 8ight 2.0 and the team associated RC8T, but whats the differance if i'm going to get into the sport? Any 2 cents will be appreciated.
thanks,
Zach
If you compare pics of buggy vs truggy with the body off, you'll see longer arms and chassis on the truggy. Truggys weight more (about 1 -1 1/2lb).
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Old 11-16-2010, 08:43 PM   #55
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What about "The Car"? It sounds like a strong car with a winning possibility.
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Old 11-16-2010, 08:59 PM   #56
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It looks very nice. Nobody knows much about it yet. It will be released soon. (Couple weeks I think) Check out the thread on it if you want more info on the car.
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:07 PM   #57
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It looks very nice. Nobody knows much about it yet. It will be released soon. (Couple weeks I think) Check out the thread on it if you want more info on the car.
I have been I read about it every where I could and for the same price as what I wanted to get its faster and more nimble and probably cheaper to maintain. I don't know how many threads there where about it I think only 2 but not sure
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:41 PM   #58
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I have been I read about it every where I could and for the same price as what I wanted to get its faster and more nimble and probably cheaper to maintain. I don't know how many threads there where about it I think only 2 but not sure
JQ himself ran this in worlds. I don't recall how he finished but just to be there you have to earn your stripes.
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:41 PM   #59
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I have been I read about it every where I could and for the same price as what I wanted to get its faster and more nimble and probably cheaper to maintain. I don't know how many threads there where about it I think only 2 but not sure
JQ himself ran "The Car" in worlds. I don't recall how he finished but just to be there you have to earn it. From what I hear anyway.
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:02 PM   #60
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JQ himself ran "The Car" in worlds. I don't recall how he finished but just to be there you have to earn it. From what I hear anyway.
He raced the full production car for the worlds and didn't break any parts. He qualified into the 8th final, bumped, and was in a bump up position in the 4th until his engine cut.
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