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Old 10-27-2010, 05:26 PM   #16
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Any Joe blow can turn on an ESC an drive, takes skill to tune an engine and clutch, HO and the sweet smell of NITRO
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Old 10-27-2010, 05:30 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by inferno13 View Post
i have taken the time in the past figureing out what is cheaper!, went through all options, nitro came out to be cheaper in he beginning and end, my buddy at local track has a electric truggy, getting started he spent 1700.00 for a good race set up. through the summer racing he smoked 3 ESC'S and had to buy new, 600.00 in the toliot!!!! we all know warrenty on electronics! (SUCKS). I had to buy new rod for 43.00 and 3 gallons of fuel, 133.00. nitro is much cheaper than electric!!!!! short run, long run.....whatever, nitro is cheaper either way! oh, and he smoked 2 lipos at 200.00 each so theres a 1000 bucks to up keep a electric for one year of racing for him. i think ill stick with nitro!
Your buddy needs to learn how to shop. ESC manufacturers will replace ESCs for free... Tekin and Castle are the only mfg's that matter for 1/8. Even if it is out of warranty, most only charge a nominal replacement amount... I think Tekin is $40 bucks. Hobbyking ESCs are only like $100 bucks or so.

No one pays $200 bucks for lipos anymore. Most get them from hobbycity for $50-$60 bucks. If you want brand name, the best mfg's typically aren't more than $100-$150 at most. These are packs that can be charged fully in 15-20 minutes.

Electric is way cheaper in the long run, but is a little more expensive to start if you don't already have the equipment though.

Nitro is cool. Love the sound of the cars. however, some of us prefer hi-tech electric and don't find anything fun about tuning a nitro motor. Sometimes the noise can be annoying too. For me, I prefer to just drive. The brushless power is addictive even without the sound imho. Both have pluses and minuses.
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Old 10-27-2010, 05:38 PM   #18
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i have taken the time in the past figureing out what is cheaper!, went through all options, nitro came out to be cheaper in he beginning and end, my buddy at local track has a electric truggy, getting started he spent 1700.00 for a good race set up. through the summer racing he smoked 3 ESC'S and had to buy new, 600.00 in the toliot!!!! we all know warrenty on electronics! (SUCKS). I had to buy new rod for 43.00 and 3 gallons of fuel, 133.00. nitro is much cheaper than electric!!!!! short run, long run.....whatever, nitro is cheaper either way! oh, and he smoked 2 lipos at 200.00 each so theres a 1000 bucks to up keep a electric for one year of racing for him. i think ill stick with nitro!
Don't agree with that at all

Electric has a high start up cost but with the right equipment and no bad luck it's cheaper in the longrun. I know people who have been running on the same 4 batteries all year long and also keeping the same electronics they got with the kit. Electric is fun but Nitro Is awesome
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Old 10-27-2010, 05:44 PM   #19
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Don't agree with that at all

Electric has a high start up cost but with the right equipment and no bad luck it's cheaper in the longrun. I know people who have been running on the same 4 batteries all year long and also keeping the same electronics they got with the kit. Electric is fun but Nitro Is awesome
agree or not, just stating what happend to the ONE guy that runs electric 1/8 scale at our track, and i have spent alot of time figureing out the cheapest way, and it was nitro, this is for a good race set-up, not the cheapest crap out there. lots of opinions out there so in not argueing by no means. just stating the facts i have discoverd
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Last edited by inferno13; 10-27-2010 at 05:48 PM. Reason: spelling..lol
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Old 10-27-2010, 05:50 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Edumakated View Post
Your buddy needs to learn how to shop. ESC manufacturers will replace ESCs for free... Tekin and Castle are the only mfg's that matter for 1/8. Even if it is out of warranty, most only charge a nominal replacement amount... I think Tekin is $40 bucks. Hobbyking ESCs are only like $100 bucks or so.

No one pays $200 bucks for lipos anymore. Most get them from hobbycity for $50-$60 bucks. If you want brand name, the best mfg's typically aren't more than $100-$150 at most. These are packs that can be charged fully in 15-20 minutes.

Electric is way cheaper in the long run, but is a little more expensive to start if you don't already have the equipment though.

Nitro is cool. Love the sound of the cars. however, some of us prefer hi-tech electric and don't find anything fun about tuning a nitro motor. Sometimes the noise can be annoying too. For me, I prefer to just drive. The brushless power is addictive even without the sound imho. Both have pluses and minuses.
like i said, my buddy doesent by CHEAP stuff, i like them all!
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Old 10-27-2010, 07:50 PM   #21
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Regardless of how you look at it, nitro or electric, we're still spending money racing. No one is in this hobby to make a living....well, not the vast majority of us anyway. For most, it's something for fun....

Now, if you spend all your time worrying about how much each race is going to cost, it's really going to take the fun out of the whole thing. I'm not saying go overboard and start spending money like you won the lottery, but just kick back and have fun. If you go through a quart of fuel, a set of clutch shoes, and one air filter this week, then have a really big race and use up a gallon of nitro and half of your "consumables" the next week, just roll with it. It will all balance out in the end. The up front cost is what's going to cause the biggest pain in your wallet.

By the way, unless you are in the habit of treating your engine like you're mad at it, you should be able to easily get a season or two out of it with no major issues. If you're racing at the highest level, or burning a gallon of fuel each week, maybe you'll notice a performance decrease during a single season. I'm betting that if you get a good motor to start out with, and treat it nicely, you'll be rewarded with a long useful life.
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Old 10-27-2010, 08:14 PM   #22
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question, what shoes are yall running and only getting a weekend out of them? ... dynamite max life shoes last for atleast 6 gallons easy, OD shoes last probably 4 or so gallons, VP Pro lasts about 2 gallons and Ascendancy Racing last about 2-4 gallons... this is running 1.1 on a truggy BTW. springs are another issue, i replace springs every other race... just some FYI dont buy mugen clutch springs, i have bought 6 sets and broke all 6 (3-1.0 and 3-1.1) and i know of a bunch of people having problems with them breaking.
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Old 10-27-2010, 08:32 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Brian Alderman View Post
Inferno it sounds like your buddy had exceptional bad luck. I dont quite think that is a fair comparison, I used a hell of a lot more than 3 gallons of fuel this summer! I guess it depends on how much you race. I know the initial cost of electric is high but lets just say nothing catastrophic happens and you race 20 times in the summer. When you add up the starter box, glow plugs, clutch shoes, clutch bells, clutch bearings, glow ingnitor, air filters, and probably more cleaning supplies, I bet its more expensive to run nitro. And I'm a nitro guy!

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Old 10-27-2010, 09:20 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by jmaxey51 View Post
question, what shoes are yall running and only getting a weekend out of them? ... dynamite max life shoes last for atleast 6 gallons easy, OD shoes last probably 4 or so gallons, VP Pro lasts about 2 gallons and Ascendancy Racing last about 2-4 gallons... this is running 1.1 on a truggy BTW. springs are another issue, i replace springs every other race... just some FYI dont buy mugen clutch springs, i have bought 6 sets and broke all 6 (3-1.0 and 3-1.1) and i know of a bunch of people having problems with them breaking.



you liked the dynamite alum shoes i felt like they sliped to much when they got heated.
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Old 10-27-2010, 10:26 PM   #25
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past year went like this...

Electric MT - vehicle 650, batteries 300, charger 250, hop-ups 150, ($1350)
over the course of a year - replace motor 250, replace broken parts 100, replace puffed lipos 150, tires/rims/foam 200, AA batts 50 (grand total $2100)

Nitro Buggy - vehicle 750, batteries 80, charger 250, hop-ups 100, ($1180)
over the course of a year - 9 gallons nitro 270, replace broken parts 150, replace perishable items 100, tires/rims/foam 200, AA batts 50 (grand total $1950)

pretty close. can't think of any reason one would extremely outweigh the other unless you're a pro racer getting product flowed to you
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Old 10-27-2010, 11:05 PM   #26
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I'm a nitro fan and just can't get myself to switch over, electric just doesn't do it for me. Don't me wrong, I see the appeal of drop and go, and the crazy power, but the sewing machine sound just makes it seem drab..it may be moving quicker but it sounds slower, if that makes any sense. A person should really just buy what they enjoy.

With an M2C 4 shoe clutch , I can get 4 gallons out of it on my modded mills, where my stock 3 shoe was getting one gallon max. It's amazing what that clutch can do for a good engine.
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:40 AM   #27
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you liked the dynamite alum shoes i felt like they sliped to much when they got heated.
you use the 3 shoe or 4 shoe? i ran 3 shoe sets and i liked them, they grabbed really good and hard, no slipping... the O'donnell ones grab even harder. great clutch shoes.
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:48 AM   #28
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...ing-bible.html

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Old 10-28-2010, 10:31 AM   #29
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you use the 3 shoe or 4 shoe? i ran 3 shoe sets and i liked them, they grabbed really good and hard, no slipping... the O'donnell ones grab even harder. great clutch shoes.

4 shoe clutch i use king headz med alum shoes .
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:07 PM   #30
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o.k. pretty sure im gonna do this. i have a few more questions for you all (thanks again for all your input), i dont really know much about the motors so..............what can you guys recomend that is not the cheapest but not gonna break me, im gonna put it in a d8t. im thinkin .21, and will i need or want to mod it?
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