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Old 10-13-2010, 06:09 PM   #16
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well for club racing i think its pretty competive im not the best driver and win in a sportsman truggy class and keeps up with guys with 2.0 t .


and yea i do have a few hop ups like extended hubs and radio tray 2.0 steering rack 2.0 fuel tank and flex chassis i highly recemmend and a good setup .
I see you bought those upgrades
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Old 10-13-2010, 10:08 PM   #17
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wait... extended hubs and zero offset wheels? I was going to run extended hubs and the offset wheels to make it wider like the 2.0.
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Old 10-13-2010, 10:14 PM   #18
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wait... extended hubs and zero offset wheels? I was going to run extended hubs and the offset wheels to make it wider like the 2.0.


thats what the 1.0 t runs 1/2 extended hubs thats what i been told on here at least it does make the hadling better and less twichy.

i get confused with offset hubs and wheels also.

i ran the 2mm extented hubs on the 1.0 also but i been told that it makes it narrower ?

if you want the 1.0 t more stable run a 3/3 3/2 rear toe in block with the 1/2 hubs ans 0 offset wheels.

i tried the 3/3 block it defietly does make it more stable.. but you do lose some steering and the rear is more locked in.
i like the 2/3 rear toe block, its still stable enough but it gives some steering back with freeing the rear end up but you can lose traction easier .

it all depends on what tires you use.

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Old 10-13-2010, 10:17 PM   #19
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I see you bought those upgrades

i had to get them it was needed
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Old 10-14-2010, 07:45 AM   #20
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Tadpole. Ha ha ha ha ha. 1.0 is a good truck, but drives very differently from the 2.0. The 2.0 is more plush (lot more suspension travel) and forgiving, and IMO easier to drive, but 1.0 is more nimble. I raced my 1.0 a couple weeks ago and then raced a friend's 2.0 a week later. I was about 1 sec a lap faster with my 1.0, but didn't make a whole lot of setup changes to the 2.0. I was 2nd with the 1.0 in a good club race field (5 or so of the guys have some type of 50% deal) so yeah, you can compete with it. I really prefer my 1.0, but I'm more used to it. Can't tell you what you might be able to get out of the 2.0 with some track time with it, but I know the 1.0 can compete.

You already have the KHZ stiffener and braces, that should pretty much take car of throttle servo issues. Set it up the way the addendum says (on Losi site) and you'll be good. I leave the rear screws for the servo just a little loose also. Been running the same throttle servo for 3 years in my buggy. Depending on your engine, you may need to shave the center diff mount to turn your carb the way you need to. Flex chassis is good, you can pick them up for a song on eBay, and last thing I saw about $50 from Horizon. If you use the KHZ braces, you can play around with leaving the screws a little loose to let the chassis flex more. I generally start with the wide hex hubs (and teh 1/2 offset wheels), the extra width helps stability. If the track is tight, I'll go to the standard hexes on front.

DO NOT run the o-ring under your battery tray. Not needed, esp. with the KHZ stiffener. If you run the o-ring, the dang screw hangs down and hits the track. Just run the stock short screw. Also, if you want to mount your PT on the radio tray while using the KHZ stiffener, you can mount it underneath where it would normally go. Couple short button head screws.
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Old 10-14-2010, 10:11 AM   #21
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Tadpole. Ha ha ha ha ha. 1.0 is a good truck, but drives very differently from the 2.0. The 2.0 is more plush (lot more suspension travel) and forgiving, and IMO easier to drive, but 1.0 is more nimble. I raced my 1.0 a couple weeks ago and then raced a friend's 2.0 a week later. I was about 1 sec a lap faster with my 1.0, but didn't make a whole lot of setup changes to the 2.0. I was 2nd with the 1.0 in a good club race field (5 or so of the guys have some type of 50% deal) so yeah, you can compete with it. I really prefer my 1.0, but I'm more used to it. Can't tell you what you might be able to get out of the 2.0 with some track time with it, but I know the 1.0 can compete.

You already have the KHZ stiffener and braces, that should pretty much take car of throttle servo issues. Set it up the way the addendum says (on Losi site) and you'll be good. I leave the rear screws for the servo just a little loose also. Been running the same throttle servo for 3 years in my buggy. Depending on your engine, you may need to shave the center diff mount to turn your carb the way you need to. Flex chassis is good, you can pick them up for a song on eBay, and last thing I saw about $50 from Horizon. If you use the KHZ braces, you can play around with leaving the screws a little loose to let the chassis flex more. I generally start with the wide hex hubs (and teh 1/2 offset wheels), the extra width helps stability. If the track is tight, I'll go to the standard hexes on front.

DO NOT run the o-ring under your battery tray. Not needed, esp. with the KHZ stiffener. If you run the o-ring, the dang screw hangs down and hits the track. Just run the stock short screw. Also, if you want to mount your PT on the radio tray while using the KHZ stiffener, you can mount it underneath where it would normally go. Couple short button head screws.




i dint think, about the battery tray screw hitting the track surface im not using the o-ring that goes on the shocks im using the ones that go into the diffs with the short screw i guess though it will still rub i have it tighten snuged ?


so you lossen the rear servo screws on the stiffner tray? how much just a little bit ?

oh yea, i forgot to tell him about turning the carb i shave the heck out of the center diff mount, and i couldnt mount the carb straight without the boot rubbing and i coulnt shave anymore off .

one thing that.. make the 1.0 t not so twichy on the steering is mounting the bump steer down insend of up . it steers a lot more smoother

to me, using the flex chassis compared to the roller chassis its more forgiving on ruts.. but it does still get a little upset but hey i used to drive 2wd nitro trucks so thats nothing.

hey i finished 2 and 3rd all day with a mixed level in a sportsman truggy class there was at least 4 four of us that were on the same driving level
i posted the results of my run on this page.

and melon peel : i would remmend the extended one piece engine mount but its not competly needed but i will make your clutch bearings last longer.
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Old 10-14-2010, 10:36 AM   #22
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Forgot about your tank question. Not sure whether the 2.0 tank will fit but I suspect it will. There was a running change made to the 1.0 tank. If you have a single foot where the springs sits on the tank it's one of the originals, 2 feet on the spring means it's updated. You want the updated tank lid. You can put it on the original tank, but it's a PITA. That area of the tank was made differently on the update so the spring feet have a place to sit.

One piece mount is nice but not necessary. The key to keepign clutch bearings is to make sure the spur and clutch bell are parallel, not meeting at an angle. Because of the chassis flex, I also run my gear mesh a little looser than I would on other cars.
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Old 10-14-2010, 10:46 AM   #23
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Forgot about your tank question. Not sure whether the 2.0 tank will fit but I suspect it will. There was a running change made to the 1.0 tank. If you have a single foot where the springs sits on the tank it's one of the originals, 2 feet on the spring means it's updated. You want the updated tank lid. You can put it on the original tank, but it's a PITA. That area of the tank was made differently on the update so the spring feet have a place to sit.

One piece mount is nice but not necessary. The key to keepign clutch bearings is to make sure the spur and clutch bell are parallel, not meeting at an angle. Because of the chassis flex, I also run my gear mesh a little looser than I would on other cars.



the 2.0 t tank fits perfect on the 1.0 t

are you running the flex chassis on your 1.0 t ? you can have the gear mesh tighter with that chassis since it flexes.

i can get the mesh parrell but you do have to tighten the engine screws in a x pattern to do it it seems like.
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Old 10-14-2010, 11:37 AM   #24
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Excellent info.

I haven't mounted the motor yet, but already know I can't use my quick-change mount, or regular mount for that matter because I'm using a pull start engine. Instead, I'm using the taller mounts from the rtr kit which probably give me plenty of clearance for the carb to function without hitting the center diff.

Looks like I need a throttle return spring... are these the same as the long header spring? Hope so, I've already got a few laying around.

I have the o-rings on my 8B tray and keep it snug, no issues so far with the screw hanging down, I think I'll stick with that setup on the 8T per the losi addendum.

What is a "PT"?
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:02 PM   #25
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Oh yeah, if you're already running the buggy then you're ahead of the game as far as setting up linkage. Do whatever's worked for you there. For a TRS (throttle return spring) I actually use small to med ponytailers (with a wife and 2 daughters I have plenty to boost from LOL). You don't need or want a lot of tension, just enough to put a little pressure on the carb slide and nudge it back if anything goes wrong. Have you not been running one on the buggy? I just loop mine around the carb then over the ballstud on the slide. If it's too loose I ziptie a little of it until the tension is right. Next, and this is important, GET THE TRS AS LEVEL AS POSSIBLE WITH THE SLIDE! In other words, you don't want it pulling on the slide at an angle, particularly with a composite carb. It will put a burr on the slide, which will then be notchy and hard to drive, and require you to take it apart and debur. Trust me, I know.

The RTR motor mounts won't really affect whether you clear the center diff mount. Has more to do with crankcase length and where the carb sits in your crankcase. It will be pretty apparent, if you can't turn your carb far enough to set the linkage properly, then you need to Dremel. The chassis flexes, so you need a little gap b/w the boot and the diff mount. Nothing to it if you have to shave it off, don't even need to remove the mount. I'll shoot some pics of my buggy and truggy so you can see how I have the TRS installed and how the mount is shaved.

"PT" is personal transponder.

TC5man, this statement makes no sense:

"are you running the flex chassis on your 1.0 t ? you can have the gear mesh tighter with that chassis since it flexes."

Now, assuming the chasis only flexed ONE way, and that way was out, then you could do that. But, since the chassis is going to flex IN on landings and bumps and make the mesh even tighter, I don't think so.
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:02 PM   #26
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Excellent info.

I haven't mounted the motor yet, but already know I can't use my quick-change mount, or regular mount for that matter because I'm using a pull start engine. Instead, I'm using the taller mounts from the rtr kit which probably give me plenty of clearance for the carb to function without hitting the center diff.

Looks like I need a throttle return spring... are these the same as the long header spring? Hope so, I've already got a few laying around.

I have the o-rings on my 8B tray and keep it snug, no issues so far with the screw hanging down, I think I'll stick with that setup on the 8T per the losi addendum.

What is a "PT"?


dont use, a throttle return spring use goody ouchless bands or something simular use 1 or 2 of them to close the throttle incase something happens 1 is strong enough if you ask me .


yea you shouldnt have a problem with the carb boot rubbing the center mount if your using pullstart engine mounts.

i dont know what pt means ?

so you do plan on racing it to ?
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:09 PM   #27
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Oh yeah, if you're already running the buggy then you're ahead of the game as far as setting up linkage. Do whatever's worked for you there. For a TRS (throttle return spring) I actually use small to med ponytailers (with a wife and 2 daughters I have plenty to boost from LOL). You don't need or want a lot of tension, just enough to put a little pressure on the carb slide and nudge it back if anything goes wrong. Have you not been running one on the buggy? I just loop mine around the carb then over the ballstud on the slide. If it's too loose I ziptie a little of it until the tension is right. Next, and this is important, GET THE TRS AS LEVEL AS POSSIBLE WITH THE SLIDE! In other words, you don't want it pulling on the slide at an angle, particularly with a composite carb. It will put a burr on the slide, which will then be notchy and hard to drive, and require you to take it apart and debur. Trust me, I know.

The RTR motor mounts won't really affect whether you clear the center diff mount. Has more to do with crankcase length and where the carb sits in your crankcase. It will be pretty apparent, if you can't turn your carb far enough to set the linkage properly, then you need to Dremel. The chassis flexes, so you need a little gap b/w the boot and the diff mount. Nothing to it if you have to shave it off, don't even need to remove the mount. I'll shoot some pics of my buggy and truggy so you can see how I have the TRS installed and how the mount is shaved.

"PT" is personal transponder.

TC5man, this statement makes no sense:

"are you running the flex chassis on your 1.0 t ? you can have the gear mesh tighter with that chassis since it flexes."

Now, assuming the chasis only flexed ONE way, and that way was out, then you could do that. But, since the chassis is going to flex IN on landings and bumps and make the mesh even tighter, I don't think so.



il make the mesh looser than your right now with the carb pulling straight thing if i just do what the picture shows on the manuel than it should pull straight right i been testing that .

yea i have a composite carb and it was notching but i did mess with the angle of what way the carb is pulling and it stoped.
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:58 PM   #28
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I do run a TRS on the buggy. I'm pretty sure it's the same spring that's used on the header. Thanks for the tip on using hair bands! I have plenty of estrogen running around my house as well. There's usually no less than 100 of them in various colors wrapped around the stick shift of my car.

Yes, will definitely try to get in some track time on the weekends. Here in Northern Virginia near DC, the closest track is about an hour south of me.
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:31 PM   #29
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Yes, will definitely try to get in some track time on the weekends. Here in Northern Virginia near DC, the closest track is about an hour south of me.
LOL, y'all are so spoiled in the north. The nearest track to me (opened about 10 months agao) is about 35 miles. The next is about an hour. Difference is, we consider that close LOL. But yeah, hair bands are great because they don't degrade nearly as quickly as rubber bands. IMO, an actual spring is just too strong, and puts undue stress on the throttle servo (which is already finicky on the 8ights). Forgot to say, when I first built my buggy, I was convinced that the brake side is what actually eats servos. I actually cut part of the connector (where it screws through the servo arm) so it would be looser, and I just don't run a ton of brake. Brakes are for sissies anyway. I'll try to get some pics up this evening.
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:36 PM   #30
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Huh? Where's my siggy? Okay, worked that time.
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