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Old 10-12-2010, 04:25 PM   #1
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Default clutch bearing setup/fitment

I just want to check if I am doing something wrong.
I currently run XB8TQ buggy that I bought second hand, when I bought it it came complete with engine etc.
It ran great for many races and in the end I changed clutch bearings (had original blue seal X-Ray bearings) only because I thought they should be replaced.
I bought a sleeve of metal shielded bearings (can not remember brand now) but I have been lucky to see out 1x 6 minute race with them.
I want to ask how should they be fitted?
Does the first bearing get fitted on the crank straight onto the brass collet? or should there be a washer there first?
Also what "end float" is best for clutch bell?
I just ordered these https://www.amainhobbies.com/advance...=ptk-mr105-2rs
and this https://www.amainhobbies.com/advance...words=rce10403 so I can reassemble correctly.

Thanks for any advise.
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:12 PM   #2
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I do not run metal shielded bearings on the clutch bell, they are exposed to too many variables, i.e. dirt, fuel, clutch dust. I alway run rubber shielded. The clutchbell should hve as little up and downmovement as posible while still allowing the bell to roll free.
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:12 PM   #3
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maybe others can chime in more, but personally i think engine alignment on the chassis is KEY when it comes to CB bearings lasting period.

a few degree's off, and it not aligning correctly with the spur, (not talking about mesh) can put a real strain on bearings.

maybe someone else can explain better.
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:24 PM   #4
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i would never run metal shielded bearings on the clutch again, i did try it once on my eight and those thing didnt last 15 minutes,

just my 2 cents, run rubber shielded / steel balls bearings and you are good to go, also make sure you have a .3mm to .5mm play when you pull the clutch bell back and forth, metal exapnds with heat and stresses the bearings, better have a breathing space.

cheers

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Old 10-12-2010, 05:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandundecided View Post
I do not run metal shielded bearings on the clutch bell, they are exposed to too many variables, i.e. dirt, fuel, clutch dust. I alway run rubber shielded. The clutchbell should hve as little up and downmovement as posible while still allowing the bell to roll free.
I too suspect the metal shield may have not been helping, that was why the new ones I bought are rubber shield.
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by builtb16a View Post
maybe others can chime in more, but personally i think engine alignment on the chassis is KEY when it comes to CB bearings lasting period.

a few degree's off, and it not aligning correctly with the spur, (not talking about mesh) can put a real strain on bearings.

maybe someone else can explain better.
I will recheck this but suspect it is not the root cause, as I run with a KH one piece engine mount.
It was fine with the X-Ray bearings and same mount location.
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWT-NITRO View Post
i would never run metal shielded bearings on the clutch again, i did try it once on my eight and those thing didnt last 15 minutes,

just my 2 cents, run rubber shielded / steel balls bearings and you are good to go, also make sure you have a .3mm to .5mm play when you pull the clutch bell back and forth, metal exapnds with heat and stresses the bearings, better have a breathing space.

cheers

Ali
I have been setting at about .5mm end float, so I am happy on that front, I think it may be just the bad bearings (Metal shielded) causing my issues, thanks again.
Sorry to hear yours did not last long but it makes me feel beter knowing someone else has a similar issue.
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:54 PM   #8
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Shim the inner section of the clutch bell so the bell doesn't hit the flywheel. install the bell and add shims (if needed) to the end of the shaft. Tight the screw and make sure the bell spins freely once the screw is tighten.

A little play is required, .5mm is enough.

Check your gear mesh and make sure the bell and spur gear are perfectly aligned.

I already had a similar problem with a truggy, I was blowing bearing after 10 minutes. The center diff cups were worn out and causing a lot of resistant when driving even if the whole drive train was spinning freely when the truck was on the stand.
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxhead View Post
I will recheck this but suspect it is not the root cause, as I run with a KH one piece engine mount.
It was fine with the X-Ray bearings and same mount location.
one peice mounts don't ensure the engine mount isn't installed crooked... its just means instead of 2 ears, there's only 1.

anyways.. check the pitch, a crooked mount on the chassis riding the spur crooked puts a ton of stress on the CB bearing.
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