3 in 1 oil question
#16
And yes, ANY oil left to penetrate will cause silicone to expand and pop. If you have a filled crank, i wouldnt use any after run. Just clean the motor out on a regular basis by flushing.
#17
The issue is the nitromethane. You dont use that in your car, atv or dirt bike. The nitromethane is like a sponge for water, it attracts moisture, which comes rust. Also, if you dont use a fuel with a 100% synthetic oil package, they use castor. Castor oil can leave behind some pretty nasty stuff if left in there and allowed to set.
#18
Tech Initiate
The issue is the nitromethane. You dont use that in your car, atv or dirt bike. The nitromethane is like a sponge for water, it attracts moisture, which comes rust. Also, if you dont use a fuel with a 100% synthetic oil package, they use castor. Castor oil can leave behind some pretty nasty stuff if left in there and allowed to set.
#19
Tech Addict
I use After run oil after every time I run the engine, whether it's a minute or an hour. It flushes out any unburnt fuel (you don't want it to sit there cause it attracts moisture), and adds a bit of lube.
#21
Tech Addict
Personally, I'd use synthetic automatic transmission fluid. Synthetic oils lubricate and protect better. Plus you can get a whole quart for $7.99 which would last you pretty much your entire R/C career.
#23
Tech Addict
What I do is first let the engine cool with the piston set to the bottom. Then I remove the glow plug and drop 5 drops into the head. Then remove the air filter and open the carb and drop 5 drops into that. Then I crank the engine over with my starter while covering the openings with a paper towel and count to 5. That's it, any excess oil will fling out of the opening. Put it back together and you're ready for next time.
#24
What I do is first let the engine cool with the piston set to the bottom. Then I remove the glow plug and drop 5 drops into the head. Then remove the air filter and open the carb and drop 5 drops into that. Then I crank the engine over with my starter while covering the openings with a paper towel and count to 5. That's it, any excess oil will fling out of the opening. Put it back together and you're ready for next time.
Thanks for all the help
#25
Tech Addict
Another tip for you. When you clean your air filter, you can use foam air filter oil from a motorcycle shop. If there's someplace near you that sells parts and fluids for dirtbikes and the like, you can use the same air filter oil. It's a lot cheaper than hobby specific stuff and does the same job.
#26
Tech Regular
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+1 on TF fluid and i always disconnect my fuel line going into the carb if not your just drawing more nitro in with the TF when you turn it over...
#27
Tech Addict
#30
Tech Adept
Something to keep in mind; whatever you use for ARO is going to be lubricating your bearings and other parts for the first couple minutes after start up. Some oils like 3-in-1, wd40, ets are find for preventing corrosion, but not so good as high speed high temp engine lubes. So maybe on the first startup after using ARO run it very rich for a couple minutes to flush out the ARO and get good engine lube in there.
Also methanol (much of our fuel is methanol) becomes very corrosive when it absorbes water from the air, so that's another reason for ARO if it's going to sit on the shelf for a while.
Also methanol (much of our fuel is methanol) becomes very corrosive when it absorbes water from the air, so that's another reason for ARO if it's going to sit on the shelf for a while.